Named after an 11th century Norse King of Dublin who had close links with Howth, Aidan and Joan MacManus' striking harbourside establishment is one of Dublin's longest established fine dining restaurants (celebrating 40 years in business in 2011).

The bright and airy first floor restaurant takes full advantage of the harbour views, especially enjoyable on summer evening - and, from this East Pier site, chef-patron Aidan can keep an eye on his lobster pots on one side and the fishing boats coming into harbour on the other.

Seafood specialities worth travelling for include a luscious red velvet crab bisque, and classics such as sole meunière and Dublin lawyer. In autumn there is a slight shift of emphasis as more meat dishes are introduced - notably the local Baily Beef, from the Bellingham family farm on Howth peninsula (and perhaps Lambay Beef too, from nearby Lambay island) - and lovers of game can enjoy a selection of wild game from Co Wicklow.

Farmhouse cheeses will also vary with the seasons, and homemade desserts are always worth leaving room for - the house dessert, Meringue King Sitric, is a practical speciality as it uses the egg whites left after the yolks are used in the many sauces made here each day.

Aidan is a well known Euro-Toques chef and his food philosphy is seen in menu cover notes that state the restaurant's commitment to local quality produce - and give a listing of Irish fish in six languages.

The range of menus offered demonstrates Aidan's absolute commitment to showcasing the best of seasonal local produce in imaginative and accessible ways, and - while some dishes are inevitably at the higher end of the price spectrum - gives the lie to any perception of this as an exclusively 'expensive' restaurant.

It is difficult to think of any other Irish restaurant offering a comparably diverse range of menus; without compromising on quality, it includes something appropriate for every budget and occasion, and is constantly evolving.

A 2/3/4-course dinner menu offers exceptional value with no restriction on day or time, and an attractive 3-course menu available on Sunday afternoon and early evening is also very keenly priced.

A more luxurious à la carte offers a wide range of speciality dishes (these are, naturally, at the premium end of the price range), and a series of special seasonal menus appears throughout the year; these include a summer Lobster Season menu, a Celebration Menu featuring the delights of Balscadden Bay (visible from the restaurant), a Tasting Menu in honour of the local Baily Beef, and an unusual Oyster and Game Season menu for the autumn and winter, offering native Irish oysters in a variety of dishes and half a dozen wild game dishes.

What these menus all have in common - aside from being a creative expression of Aidan MacManus's dedication to local food, seasonality and value for customers - is the amount of information given on all main ingredints used.

This is now becoming more usual, thanks in part to the Bord Bia 'Just Ask' competition (of which The King Sitric was a winner in March 2010), but it has been the norm at this restaurant for many years, and goes far beyond a simple list of suppliers - there is a sense of a real relationship with each and evvery one of them, and it involves the diner as well as the chef.

Aidan MacManus also oversees one of the country's finest wine lists, with strengths in Chablis, Burgundy and Alsace, with the special feature of a temperature controlled wine cellar on the ground floor. The house wine, Hugel Cuvée les Amours, is a special reserve for The KIng Sitric; it is outstanding for both quality and value, and a perfect match for delicious fish cooking.

The King Sitric was the Guide's Seafood Restaurant of the Year in 2006, and received the Wine List of the Year Award in 2001; the restaurant operates a Food & Wine Club off-season.

Seats 70 (private room, 28). D Wed-Sat from 6.30pm (also Mon in summer). Sun all day, 1-7pm. 2/3/4-course Set D €28/35/42; Tasting Menu €50; also à la carte; Sun set menu €35 (children €25), also à la carte; house wine from €24; SC discretionary (12.5% parties 8+). Restaurant closed Tue (& Mon in winter), bank hols, Christmas.

Accommodation:

There are eight rooms, all with sea views and individually designed bathrooms - and a very nice breakfast menu is offered, including several fish dishes.

Rooms 8 (2 superior, 1 family room, 3 ground floor, all no-smoking). B&B €72.50 pps, ss €32.50; children welcome (under 12s free in parents' room, cots available free of charge; baby sitting arranged); limited room service. Dogs may be permitted by prior arrangement. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Far end of the harbour front, facing the east pier.