"Hello and welcome" is the perfect opener on the website of this recently re-opened restaurant on the shores of Lough Swilly, conveying in three words the hospitality and warm welcome you will find here. After reading their (regularly updated) Philosophy and Fayre page and enjoying a pleasant phone conversation when booking a table, you'll feel at home from the get-go - this is true Donegal hospitality.
Scenically set at the edge of Rathmullan village and looking out over the lough, it was taken on by local man Clive Johnston in summer 2023 after a closure and - complementing the village's excellent established restaurants - soon became a multi-generational destination that's equally popular for a celebration party, a couple's date night or a family Sunday lunch. A spacious lobby area, complete with a fully stocked public bar and welcoming fire, has seating that can be an ideal dining option for the less mobile as there are a few steps up to the main restaurant. The stairs open onto a fine glass fronted dining area with a vaulted wooden ceiling - and great daylight views across to Inishowen. In the darker evenings Waters Edge is floodlit and feels cosy with a fire at one end of the long room, where pristine tables are dressed ready and waiting.
A number of menus are offered at different times, with the main à la carte and drinks selection including something for everyone. You'll find plenty of classic dishes and also influences from around the world, giving plenty of choice for regular customers - and the cooking is good. The quality of ingredients is very evident too and, while there's not a huge emphasis on specific provenance - 'Local Crab from Burtonport' is typical - there is one key exception, which is very nice to see and may usefully guide the first time diner's choice of main course: "Beef for Steaks and Roast Beef, from our own Farm, Treanavinney in Manorcunningham".
Typical starters may include Goat cheese bonbons, Seafood chowder, a smooth Chicken liver parfait served with toasted brioche, Pork belly with a black pudding fritter (excellent), and perfectly pan-seared King scallops, while main courses range from lighter dishes like a Treanavinney Farm sirloin steak sandwich, to more traditional main courses. A seriously good chunky Sirloin steak, for example, or Rump of Donegal Lamb with braised shoulder (beautiful rested meat with a braised shoulder in a crispy croquette, a little jus decorated with a few berries and carrot purée - delicious). Also pasta, curry, burger and vegetarian options, plus a daily special sheet noting the soup, fish (Turbot fillet with scallops and homemade ravioli perhaps), and a Beef fillet option in the Surf &Turf style. Plentiful sides include lovely mashed potatoes and a range of well timed vegetables - crunchy, just cooked - and everything is cleanly presented, with great flavours.
Desserts are well made in-house and easily shared, as the main courses are substantial - maybe a trio of colourful Ice creams, Baileys Cheesecake, a perfect Crème Brûlée Cup with a chunk of shortbread. Drinks follow the same pattern, offering plenty of choice, starting with numerous draught beers, bottles and local craft, both alcoholic and non-alcholic versions - including 3 wines, from a list that is accessibly priced overall but also includes some top end classics. All looked after by well trained and polite multi-tasking staff, who chat pleasantly and give ample advice whilst serving.
It's great to find somewhere that is a party / family place, yet also a haven for a couple to retreat to - a place for all to enjoy the many options offered. There's an energy and dedication here and The Waters Edge lives up to the initial impression on their web pages - so you will eat well and leave cheered.
