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Article RACHEL GAFFNEY'S LETTER FROM TEXAS

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

To introduce herself and her new monthly column, well known foodie Rachel Gaffney explains how she came to be an American mom flying the flag for Ireland in Texas...

The career guidance room in the Ursuline Convent, Blackrock, Cork was a perfectly square room with one window… Trifold leaflets were strewn around the room… I recall taking in all the options in one visual sweep… Nursing, Civil Engineering, Medicine, Commerce, Science, Law and the Arts...I had to choose one. I wanted to become a doctor.

Here I sit and write my first letter from Texas, twenty four years later. I am not a doctor. Somewhere along the M7 on the road to the ‘University of Maynooth’, I threw away the map and disregarded the original set of directions given to me that day in the career guidance room. The decision was a late one. One I dreaded telling my parents. I thought I had wanted to be a doctor all along, in fact I was pretty sure of it. I was going to start by studying dietetics and then transfer. I had it all figured out.

Then in one swift instant it all evaporated. A new hotel had just opened. ‘The Rochestown Park Hotel’. I had watched the renovation and transformation from monastery to hotel. Being just a little curious, I knew I had to check it out! The day I walked into that hotel was the day that I just knew I would never study the Science subjects again.

For the sake of brevity and at the risk of inducing sleep, I will not drone on about the twenty four years in between then and now. I stayed at the Rochestown Park Hotel for several months, switched my studies to travel and tourism, moved to London, trained at the London Tara Hotel for a further four years then went on to work in Sales and Marketing for Thistle Hotels, working at the Tower Thistle Hotel, Tower Bridge and finally at their head office as Sales Manager for UK & Ireland for an industry sector. I married my husband Peter who worked for Lloyds of London, had my first son James there in 1995 and we were transferred to the United States in February 1996.

Feb 12th 1996. Our British Airways flight landed and as we filtered through customs and immigration, I remember thinking that this would be the first time we were arriving at an airport without any familiar faces to greet us. I had a three month old baby in my arms dressed in a navy velour babygro. James cried and cried. Perhaps he was tired, jet lagged, hungry even? How could he be though, he was still in an infant and slept constantly.

We waited for our worldly possessions to arrive. Four large suitcases. James continued to cry. As we meandered our way through the airport a man in a stetson hat caught my eye as he was holding a sign that simply said.. ‘Smith Family’. He was enormous. He was the largest man I had seen in the flesh. He must have weighed 350lbs. He huffed and puffed his way over to us and in a Southern drawl that is uniquely Texan, welcomed us to the great state of Texas. Our transport was a black Lincoln Town car. Also enormous by our standards. It still was not quite big enough for him though!

As we drove away from the Dallas Fort Worth Airport, James continued to cry. It was exhausting now just listening to him. The driver turned to me, and I remember noticing the beads of sweat on the back of his neck and dripping down his face. He said “M’aam, your little one must be baking dressed like that “ “It’s 92 degrees here today in Dallas, the hottest February 12th on record”. How had I not noticed? When we left London Heathrow that morning, we had ice on the runway. I had dressed James for London, not Dallas, Texas. I popped and snapped open every button frantically and as if by magic, James stopped crying.

They say everything is bigger in Texas. On that day they certainly were. From the size of our driver to the car he drove. Since moving here sixteen years ago I have also learned that the skies are big and wide and as the popular song ‘Deep in the heart of Texas’ says.......

“The stars at night are big and bright
Deep in the heart of Texas.
The prairie sky is wide and high
Deep in the heart of Texas.”

Now, in 2012, I have two sons. James is almost 17 and Matthew almost 15. Both are American boys. Their hearts belong to Texas. I am indeed an American Mom, with a very Irish soul and it is here in this monthly letter from Texas that I plan on sharing a piece of life, Texas style and how through my business, ‘Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland’, I keep the Irish flag flying high alongside the flag of the Lone Star State.

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, arrives with time in hand before teaching an Irish cooking class in Austin – and discovers the work of an Irish artist in the Capitol Building

It was a Friday afternoon when I arrived in Austin, the capital of Texas. I was teaching an Irish cooking class at Central Market. I was early. The Capitol Building was calling me. I had visited once before, ever so briefly but had this urge to go back. Upon entering the building I noticed quite a few tour guides eagerly waiting to share their knowledge. One guide in particular caught my attention. He was talking to two boy scouts with such animation that I knew immediately he was the one I needed to listen to. The child in me, needed someone who loved what they do to share this afternoon with. I was not disappointed.

Upon walking into the Senate Chamber, I was struck by the magnificence of two paintings hanging on the walls. As my tour guide continued to talk and ask questions, I participated eagerly. His comment was quite funny, as he said “Young lady, you must have been a good 5th grade student in Texas History”. Obviously he had not noticed my Irish accent, as it was not one of the subjects we covered at the Ursuline Convent Cork!

However, having two boys educated here in Dallas helped somewhat with my Texas history! I continued to ask more questions as I had noticed in the painting 'Dawn at the Alamo' that James Bowie was very much alive and I had thought he was dead or injured by the time the battle had occurred or at least that was what I remembered from my son’s history book. That was when I learnt about H.A McCardle.

James Bowie was indeed dead or at least dying at the time but the painter made sure that he was very much alive in the painting of this historic battle, (although 'The Battle Of San Jacinto' was a more significant one). The Alamo fell on March 6th 1836. There is a somewhat humourous depiction of Santa Anna himself on a donkey as little more than a caricature. This magnificent painting shows a mighty and brutal battle scene with Santa Anna fleeing. The painter had a sense of humor.

The painter was H.A McArdle and he was born in Belfast in 1836. His parents died when he was a teenager and he emigrated to America. He was a draftsman during the Civil War for the Confederate Navy and later he made maps for Robert E Lee.

After marrying he settled in Texas and taught art at Baylor Female College. Later the President of Baylor, William Carey Crane recommended McArdle to the Governor of Texas. He was commissioned to paint a portrait of Jefferson Davis for the Capitol. McArdle moved to San Antonio and painted numerous portraits of Sam Houston. One of his portraits are on display in the DeGolyer Library at SMU (Southern Methodist University, Dallas)

More of his work can be found across the street in the 'Texas State Library' and in Baylor University in Waco, Texas. I was so incredibly proud of this Irishman and wanted to see more but it was time to leave for Central Market. I was eager to share this information with all the students in the cooking school. And so began my quest to learn more about the Irish in Texas.

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, sees parallels between Dublin and Dallas in the rebirth of the city she now calls home

Beyond Southfork Ranch

The year was 1980 and I was a 12 year old school girl living in Cork. My daily life was unremarkable at best. I was a gangly red haired girl, whose extra curricular activity consisted of hockey (or field hockey as they call it here in the USA) and elocution lessons.

My memories of those days are not by any means halcyon days. I remember vividly waiting in the rain at bus stops, feeling the heavy green gaberdine uniform stick to my skin and itch uncontrollably. It was more often than not damp, dark and cold in Cork.

These conditions are ideal for our world famous green grass but they were not ideal for me when waiting to take the bus home. The bus was not a respite from the weather. In fact it too held its own murky imperfections. Grumpy bus conductors checking for tickets, people inhaling deeply on cigarettes, the windows fogged up from a combination of smoke and condensation.

Then finally the respite came for me in the unlikeliest of places. It came across my television screen in great big capital yellow letters spelling out the name of a faraway place in Texas, namely the city of Dallas. The excitement was palpable during that year. The scheming oil baron that we knew as JR Ewing had been shot and everyone wondered who had committed this crime. This was my first impression of Dallas. Towering gold and mirrored buildings, expansive ranches with their iconic yellow awnings covering their patios and the giant Dallas Cowboys stadium blazed across my screen and was forever etched in my memory with indelible ink.

Rachel Gaffney Now, 33 years later, I see the city of Dallas for what it really is and I also have the privilege of watching the continued growth and even the birth of a new city emerge. Dallas and Dublin have something in common. Both cities embraced the work of Spanish visionary architect, Santiago Calatrava.

December 2009 saw the opening of the Samuel Beckett bridge in Dublin and March, 2012 saw the grand opening of the Margaret Hunt Hill bridge in Dallas. This 400 ft bridge soars up and over the Trinity river finally linking the forgotten west Dallas to the rest of the city. Driving across this bridge, I am continually in awe at her splendor as she reaches upward towards the big blue Texas sky. This modern marvel connecting the old with the new. One last glimpse in the rearview mirror and you leave behind the gleaming downtown buildings and skyscrapers. The other side is a far cry from the background view, for here lies fifteen acres of what was once considered wasteland.

A whole new world is being reborn, led by a team of innovators. A well known trio, here in Dallas, namely Butch McGregor, Phil Romano and Stuart Fitts. Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, old buildings are being regenerated and reborn, just like the aforementioned bird in Greek mythology.

Warehouses that lay dormant are being gutted, keeping their original framework, old Dallas houses are being redecorated and new life being breathed upon them. The once chaotic wasteland is now bright and cheery painted with vibrant colours. Bright pinks and cheery yellows are around every corner. Out of the wasteland, an incubator community is emerging.

“Trinity Groves will foster the growth of startup concepts and businesses , and capitalize on Dallas’ culture of innovation and entrepreneurism” This trio plans on bringing together the community and businesses in West Dallas by providing unique experiences that will make Trinity Groves a primary entertainment destination in Dallas.

This is extremely exciting news. I mentioned incubator community. I associate the word incubator with my infant son, who was once in an incubator. He was not quite ready for this world. He had all the potential back then. He could not do it alone and therefore needed to be kept safe and warm with the ever watchful eyes from experienced doctors and nurses. They nurtured and loved him but they also performed uncomfortable procedures that caused pain at times until he was ready to go it alone.

So, you have an idea for a new restaurant or retail concept? What do you do next? The traditional methods of securing bank loans are becoming a thing of the past. Trinity Groves is the incubator for those who are not ready to go it alone, those that need guidance and mentoring, nurturing and caring, experiencing new learning curves and painful decisions. The reality of business is that there will always be painful decisions to be made. There is also another all too obvious reality between entrepreneurs and investors and that is the obvious reality of ‘my idea’ and ‘my money’.

Here is your first big and painful decision. You may have a wonderful idea and concept but no way of financing it. Trinity Groves offers you the solution you were looking for and more but you wrestle with how much of the pie you really want to give away. So, you need to ask yourself this question, ‘do you want to own 100% of nothing or perhaps 40% of millions?’ (caveat, this is merely an example).

Now, 33 years later, the famous hit tv series Dallas airs once again. The show opens with the same catchy music but now the Margaret Hunt Hill bridge is in the opening scenes, the old Dallas Cowboys stadium is gone and replaced with the new one. Sadly we lost Larry Hagman last year so the caustic JR Ewing is no more, but times are changing.

Change can be very difficult for people to embrace. It stirs fear and causes procrastination. But like the phoenix who has been reborn from the ashes it garners its strength from the sun. It lives for a 1,000 years before submitting to the legacy of its death. So, my salutation to the new year is, ‘Here’s to a thousand years of rebirth in the city I now call home, Dallas.’

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - LongHouse Food Revivals

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, travels to Austin for what turns out to be a very interesting foodie weekend

LongHouse Food Revivals

The drive to Austin, Texas on February 1st, 2013 was to be my respite. The last three months had been painful and emotionally draining as my family experienced the sudden and unexpected loss of my father in law. The grief and shock took its toll as did the awful business of death. It numbs the soul. It causes deep reflection and contemplation but it does however, pass and fade with time. My road trip was one I took alone. I had no expectations and no pre-conceived ideas of what this ‘Longhouse Food Revival’ would bring. I was simply going along to feel again.

“Based on the 19th century American Chautauqua movement, LongHouse Food Revivals are a series of annual gatherings of thought leaders across the United States. The Revivals are designed to stretch the boundaries of how food stories are told, raise the bar on the nation’s food news agenda and, most of all, foster the community between generations, regions, cultures and media platforms that support innovative work of the highest quality. Produced by CookNScribble, the online educational resource and virtual editorial office for food writers, bloggers and producers, LongHouse Food Revivals are intimate gatherings that are large in vision. No two Revivals are alike. All are serious fun.” Source: www.cooknscribble.com

Austin is a mere three hour drive South of Dallas. I arrived in enough time to check in to my hotel, change into my jeans and cowboy boots and head for the Pine Street Station, where the revival was being held.

Fairy lights were strung haphazardly from tree limb to tree limb in this imperfectly shaped courtyard. People sampled and sipped ‘Twisted X’ craft beer, a Mexican style beer handcrafted in Austin, known as a ‘Tex-Mex Beer’. On a tall wooden barrel stood an army of frosted bottles, 12Nt emblazoned across the labels. It stands for ‘noon to midnight’. A non alcoholic beverage crafted by Chef David Burke, a culinary marvel. There are two flavours. Blanc, citrus-ginger and Rouge, pomegranate-blackcurrant.

I poured a little of each and immediately fell in love. I found myself standing by this barrel in the bustling courtyard eager to refill my glass. I could detect a slight hint of herbs and was it possible that I may have detected some tea? It was not until days after this event that I learned that these sophisticated beverages have over 60 ingredients in each bottle, indeed using the herbs and teas I had detected along with fruit juices and spices . It was time to follow one of my other senses, the strongest of all, my sense of smell.

Pit Master The smell of charred wood drifted and lingered in the air. It was that unmistakable smell of a wood fire with the heady heavy notes that are unique to burning wood. Here, Kiko Guerra tended to his fire pits roasting milk fed kid goats known as cabrito. Cabrito is indigenous to Monterrey, a city in Mexico.

The burning embers were tended with care and I stood by this pit like a moth to a flame. It offered warmth and solace in the chilly evening. Here I stood, an Irish woman in a strange land, not knowing anyone, but within minutes was deep in conversation with the pit master. People gathered around the fire much like people gather around the centre of any home, the kitchen. For it is food that unites us.

The bell tolled, inviting us all inside to this odd shaped hut, decorated in a very bohemian way. Bicycle wheels were suspended from the rafters with fairy lights binding them together and a tired red couch sat in the corner to play home to the many guest speakers. Molly O’ Neill, former New York Times food columnist, author of ‘One Big Table’ and founder of ‘Cook n Scribble’ opened with her soft and meaningful words.

We listened to a Mexican poet pay homage to her mother, now suffering from alzheimer’s, through her poem about chicken soup. Her words stirred us as she remembered the sights and smells of her mother cooking in their kitchen.

Chef Iliana de la Vega , owner of ‘El Naranjo’ Mexican restaurant and bar, whipped up a quick but tasty salsa verde (green salsa) blending up fresh cilantro, chiles and tomatillos to name but a few ingredients. As she did so, she talked of her home, Oaxaca and it’s traditions. Oaxaca is located in southwest Mexico and was named as a city of world heritage by UNESCO.

Following speakers and musicians we ambled in to the adjoining room. Tables were decorated with rolls of butcher roll paper, candles and mason jars filled with fresh herbs and broccoli. It was a simple table. A welcoming table. We ate the mild and tasty cabrito, freshly made corn tortillas and salsa verde. Dessert was a freshly made parsnip and rutabaga ice cream with a blood orange sauce, served from the Whole Foods food truck.

We roamed and meandered back into the courtyard as pots of thick viscous Mexican hot chocolate awaited us along with brightly coloured trays of Mexican wedding cookies. Again we huddled in groups around the hot chocolate watching as they ladled the thick hot creamy liquid into our cups. This creamy liquid took a little longer than most to reach my throat as it idled for a while in the roof of my mouth. Neither too sweet nor too bitter, this was a chocolate I could enjoy.

And so my evening ended. I had sat with Rachel from Boston, an anthropologist studying gastronomy habits around the world and another lady from Italy, now living in Michigan also studying food culture. We were complete strangers until that moment, dining alongside each other, sharing stories of food markets in Turin, Italy and Cork, Ireland. We were inextricably connected.

Connected by food. Connected by Mexican food and her traditions. The week that followed was a productive week. My senses were reinvigorated. I could feel again.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Dallas food trucks

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, introduces an Irish visitor to a local food phenomenen the Dallas food trucks - and, who knows, maybe the food truck could be the next big thing over here too.

Last weekend saw the inaugural American Ireland Funds Emerald Ball at the Adolphus Hotel, Dallas. The Ireland Funds is a global organisation raising money for peace and reconciliation, arts and culture, education and community development throughout Ireland. Thus Dallas was invaded by people from Belfast, Dublin, Limerick, Cork, Mullingar and Galway.

Playing host, I drove to the Adolphus Hotel on the day after the ball to escort my group around the city of Dallas. We spent the morning at the Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza, where they have chronicled the assassination of John F Kennedy in great detail.

From here I drove past the grassy knoll and made my way to the Woodall Rogers Freeway.

The impressive Hunt Oil building stood tall over the freeway, windows gleaming and squinting in the bright sunlight and below on a Sunday afternoon the Klyde Warren Park was buzzing with activity. Families meandered through with strollers, lovers lay lazily in the sun, others read beneath the shade of a tree and groups gathered playing Petanque (French version of bocce ball) chess and mahjong (ancient Chinese game played with tiles).

This area in Dallas is relatively new. It was opened in 2009 and is still being developed. Historically, this area was a commercial and financial area and now with such an influx of social activity, the need to feed people has prompted the familiar site of lines of food trucks. My guest from Dublin asked me about the food trucks. She informed me that she was aware of pop up restaurants in Ireland but had not seen so many food trucks in one place.

We are all familiar with the ice cream truck. I can remember the sound of the truck as it made its way down my street, playing it’s off tune jingle, drawing us into its web like a spider draws flies. Now, these trucks are far more sophisticated and inspire the entrepreneurial spirit in all.

Dallas Food Truck ‘Ruthies’ Rolling Cafe’ was the first to catch my eye. I am now familiar with the iconic pink truck rolling around Dallas but my guests weren’t, so we parked the car and embarked on a food truck crawl!

‘Ruthies’ serves a grilled cheese sandwich. Not just any grilled cheese sandwich. It sources its bread from the best bakery in Dallas, namely ‘Empire Baking Company’

Choose from San Francisco style sourdough, jalapeno cheese, classic white or hippie health multi-grain breads. Select from artisan cheeses such as swiss, mozzarella or American and add caramelised onions , tomatoes and more. All products are locally sourced.

Perhaps you feel like a little cajun food. If so, then ‘Cajun Tailgators’ is the food truck for you. This truck is easily recognized around Dallas by it’s iconic purple and yellow colours, Taste southern food at its finest. A cajun BBQ pork sandwich made from pulled pork and BBQ sauce on a fresh bun will satisfy your hunger for $7 or a bowl of crawfish etoufee, a hearty crawfish stew with fresh crawfish and vegetables served over rice.

For those among us with a sweet tooth, try a portion of the famous Beignets for just $3. These French doughnuts are flash fried and covered with powdered sugar or maybe a portion of their bread pudding, a down home favourite covered in their truckmade Bourbon sauce.

Food trucks in Dallas are affordable and easily accessible. They will travel to your office building, church or event. Each week, those of us who have come to know these trucks will log on to search the ‘Food Truck Finder’ a service provide by the long running publication ‘D Magazine’ .

The locations are posted a week in advance, so you are sure to find a truck near you!

After my Irish guests and I ate and drank our fill, we left for an afternoon at ‘Southfork Ranch’ sated and ready to walk off the wonderful foods we had sampled together.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Locally Grown Olives

Texas Tomatoes Just recently I attended the grand opening of ‘Collin County Farmers Market’ located in Plano, Texas. I planned on being there for the opening time of 8am. While I brewed a fresh pot of coffee, I sat outside by my pool and breathed in the morning air fragranced with honeysuckle and jasmine. I cherish these mornings as it will not be long before the Texas summer heat assaults you as early as 5am. I poured my coffee into my travel mug and set about for the morning ahead with no expectations but to forage and enjoy.

I pulled up outside the red barns and immediately these images sparked a childhood memory. I vividly remember the anthology of ‘Childcraft Encyclopedias’ in our home and one in particular was clearly leafed through on a regular basis and it was a book of poetry. One such poem was illustrated with a red barn that I never saw in Ireland as it was an American book. Now here before my eyes, almost forty years later, this very barn stood before me.

I noticed a family lugging baskets of red and yellow tomatoes from the back of their truck onto their stall and walked in their direction to get a closer look. As soon as I got there, Mr Espinoza looked at me with a large smile and said ‘Buenos Dias’ (good morning).

His smile was captivating and as I have never known a stranger so friendly, began to speak with him. He and his family owned their farm in Nevada, Texas. Originally from Mexico, he and his family brought with them their love of the land and their work ethic. His 17 year old son was now lifting crates of okra and dividing them into individual baskets for sale. Okra is a very popular vegetable in the ‘Deep South’. It is used to make gumbo and can be deep fried or boiled.

Texas Olive Ranch Turning the corner, a table with an array of brightly coloured bottles beckoned me to stop. It was lined with balsamic vinegars and olive oils, all made here in Texas. Fortunately for me, as it was the grand opening, I chatted with Jim Henry, the founder of ‘Texas Olive Ranch’. Jim founded their olive ranch in 2005 in Carrizo Springs, Texas which is located south of San Antonio.

Jim had been convinced for years that olives could indeed be grown in Texas and not only could they grow but they could indeed thrive. He now has 40,000 olive trees and plans are ahead for a further 300,000 trees in Victoria, Texas. “Olives need good soil, heat and plenty of water,” he explained, “but they do not tolerate the cold. For this reason, you will not find olive trees growing much further north than Carrizo Springs.”

Texas Olive Bottles Jim is passionate about what he does. I do not use the word passion loosely. In fact I believe that this word is thrown about carelessly and should be used cautiously. Passion to me is a belief. A belief in what you do, as when times are tough, when you wonder where the next pay cheque is coming from you still continue on as you believe so strongly in what you do. When the nay sayers offer their opinions as freely as they do, it is this passion that will carry you and help you when you have the courage of your convictions.

As Jim continued to talk, I soaked up every word he had to say. At one point, he stopped and apologised, saying he can get carried away and to stop him at any point. I told him to continue as I could not hear or learn enough. Curiosity is a wonderful thing. Jim has been a pioneer here in Texas and now has the largest commercial olive orchard.

Extra Virgin olive oil has appeared in many articles over the last few years as many olive growers claim the public are being misled by inaccurate labeling. Claims have been made that many of the oils imported to the USA are in fact blends of oils including vegetable oil and food colouring. Author Tom Mueller highlights this in his book ‘Extra Virgin’ the sublime scandalous world of olive oil.

I purchased a bottle of cold pressed and unfiltered extra virgin olive oil and a very special bottle of ‘Muy Bueno’ (very good) a blend of their extra virgin olive oils that is not available in stores and can only occasionally be purchased at a farmers market. The latter is best served with slices of cucumber, or drizzled over freshly sliced Texas tomatoes, torn basil and fresh mozzarella cheese.

Texas Tomatoes with Olive Oil I had hardly noticed the time drift by. I glanced at my watch and although we had talked for 30 minutes or so, I now knew enough about Texas olive oil to be dangerous, which is not a good thing. As the old saying goes ‘A little knowledge is a dangerous thing’. I had not nearly enough information. I needed to know more. The public needs to learn more. I asked Jim if he would bring his knowledge and passion back to Dallas over the coming months and he agreed instantly.

As a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier and a member of the GCI committee, (Global Culinary Initiative), our mission is to embrace our global communities through culinary connections that will provide educational programming, training programs and cultural exchange. I asked Jim Henry to be our guest for our next series of GCI classes.

Until then, I remain humbled by what I do not know. Socrates put it best when he said “The only true wisdom is in knowing you know nothing”

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Barbecue & BBQ

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, explains the vital difference between ‘barbecue’ and ‘BBQ’ - and introduces us to the Texas BBQ

The men in my family (I call my teenage boys men when I am talking about food as they eat about as much, if not more, than two farmhands) circled the island in my kitchen as I lifted the pork chops onto their plates.

I had not yet called them for dinner but the aroma had drawn them in like bees to a honey pot and so they stood hovering about like a pride of lions waiting to eat their kill. The very sight or smell of meat, whether it be grilled or barbecued excites them.

Their eyes light up at the sight of butcher’s paper wrapped in twine. Whilst I do not react the same way, I do understand it, as my senses are stirred at the smell of freshly picked rosemary, the aroma of freshly baked bread and the sight of brightly coloured fruits. To each his own.

Perhaps it is no accident that I now live in Texas, the home of Barbecue, although others across the Southern part of the United States may argue with that statement, as it is an ongoing battle.

People from North Carolina, Tennessee and Kansas City all lay claim to that title, but as I have lived in Texas for seventeen years now, I will join the Texans in their claim and leave the fight for the title to historians!

For all the meat lovers in my family, Texas is indeed the place to be.

If someone were to ask me, if I thought there was a particular cuisine or style of cooking in America then I would have to say it was BBQ. My earliest and only memory of BBQ in Ireland was spare ribs of pork, which my mother only made for us when my father was out of town as he hated them.

When I was a teenager, people put sausages, frozen fish fingers and beef burgers on the little disposable charcoal tray outside and those were our Barbecues. Whilst I realise things have progressed and grilling and BBQ’ing meat outside is more popular in Ireland, I will say with some conviction that the Texans have cornered the market when it comes to BBQ’ing meat.

One might think, that this is easy as we live in a state with great weather and can be outdoors all the time, which is partly correct, however there are many BBQ restaurants where all the cooking is done indoors. BBQ is to Texas as rain is to Ireland !

Barbecue is the actual event, where people gather to eat, drink and converse whereas BBQ is the style of cooking. BBQ’ing and grilling are two very different methods. The latter requires direct heat and the former requires indirect heat and takes hours to cook. Low and slow.

Possibly the most famous is the Kansas City Style. There is indeed the St Louis cut pork ribs but perhaps Kansas City style is best known for the sauces they use for their meats. The sauce is thick and sweet, with the foundation being brown sugar and molasses (similar to treacle). Southern Carolina and Tennessee also have their own BBQ styles.

In Texas, the most common of all meats cooked is the beef brisket. There is no shortage of pork, chicken or game but brisket is more widely cooked. In Texas, the style is all about smoking the meats and cooking very slowly for long periods of time. People take their BBQ quite seriously here in Texas. Consider it akin to a religion of sorts.

They pay homage to their meats, smokers and pits. Yes, I did say pits as several aspire to be pit masters. Pit masters have years of experience, have nursed their meats throughout the nights and are able to withstand smoke and heat. Woods like hickory, pecan, cedar and mesquite are used widely here to smoke and flavour the meats.

Learning about the balance of chemicals in creosote takes time, (creosote is one of the compounds in smoke) as you are learning about the difference between meat that can taste bitter or smoky. A good pit master will know all about this and he or she will amaze you with their knowledge of white smoke, grey, black and blue.

Blue smoke, believe it or not, is the most desirable for the seasoned cook. There are numerous BBQ competitions and cook offs starting on a local level, then regional, state and the ultimate national level. People drive their Rv’s (Recreational vehicles) for hundreds of miles and off load their smokers and pits. Family recipes and secrets are closely guarded secrets. There really is a finite amount of ingredients and spices that one can use, but any amount of tricks.

One of the tricks I learned about recently was with, yes of course, you guessed, a beef brisket. The brisket, which is a choice cut and not an end cut, is slathered in ground garlic, cumin and sea salt and refrigerated overnight.

The next day, it came out and rested on the counter for 2-3 hours. It was then smoked for a few hours in a smoker. Following that, rather than using tented methods like a lid or foil, this person used butchers paper.

The meat was wrapped and taped in butchers paper and BBQ’d slowly over a low heat. Once the paper was removed they discovered that the meat was beautifully smoked and tasted far better than the foil method as the foil had encouraged steaming. So you see, this is indeed a serious business.

Perhaps one of the most famous in Dallas Fort Worth is Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse founded in 1910 in Dallas. Today they have restaurants all across the metroplex and they are known for their pulled pork sandwiches, beef brisket, jalapeno sausage and pork ribs.

This is a no frills restaurant but the food tastes oh so lip smacking good! Served with sides of homemade coleslaw, potato salad and BBQ beans these meals can be finished off with the all American favorite, peach or apple cobbler. You are sure to make a mess, with sauce dripping down your face and oozing through your fingers but that is part of its charm.

Celebrating Barbecue by Dotty Griffith Recently I spoke with Dotty Griffith, former food critic of the Dallas Morning News’ and author of ten cookbooks. Dotty was born and raised in Texas and is an expert when it comes to Barbecue. I asked her what she would order when in a BBQ restaurant. “Oh, I would have to say Texas beef brisket”, then I asked her what she would have with it and she said, “Pork ribs and sausage” to which I exclaimed “No, Dotty, I meant side dishes” “Oh, a big ole pickle and some Texas onion rings” she added laughing. Even this Texan lady loves her meat.

You can learn all about the various styles of Barbecue in Dotty’s book ‘Celebrating Barbecue’ available on Amazon.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Texas Ruby Red Grapefruit

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, tells us about grapefruit

Ah, the 1970's. My parents took us to eat frequently at various hotels around Cork and Kerry. I can remember the choice of starters on the menus as if it were yesterday. Soup, prawn cocktail and grapefruit. The grapefruit was halved, plopped in an oval glass dish, topped with a glace cherry and sprinkled with sugar. If you accidentally omitted the sugar, you would know pretty quickly as your eyes would squint as if blinded by the sun and your cheeks would pucker like an old prune. This was my introduction to grapefruit.

The Rio Grande river flows from Colorado to the Gulf of Mexico, separating Mexico from the United States. 'The Valley' as it is known as here in Texas or 'The Rio Grande Valley' is located in the southernmost part of South Texas. This region is known for it's production of cotton, sugarcane and citrus fruits. Included in the latter category are navel oranges, pineapples and grapefruits.

Although grapefruit originated in the West Indies, the famous 'Ruby Red' is indeed indigenous to Texas. They grow in clusters on trees and in 1929 there was an accidental discovery made of red grapefruit growing on these trees. As the groves developed, each variety was named after their grower. The subtropical climate in this region provide ideal conditions for them to thrive.

Grapefruit Drizzle Cake Each week, I purchase at least three or four ruby red grapefruits. They are as much a part of my shopping list as milk, bread and butter. When choosing a grapefruit, it should be heavier than it looks for it's size. This means you have chosen a juicy one. It is easy to peel and can be eaten just like an orange. When you slice it or half it the colour is so vibrant that you cannot help but add it to a salad to liven things up. It is sweet and juicy. It does not require sugar to be sprinkled on it !

There are many varieties as I mentioned with varying degrees of redness. Just recently I wrote an story about 'Texas Olive Ranch' and their olive oil. (May edition of Georgina Campbell's Ireland) They make an olive oil infused with 'Rio Orange' and it has a fresh, sweet, clean and mild flavour.

Armed with bottles of Texas olive oil and Texas ruby red grapefruits, I could not wait to get cooking and baking with my new local ingredients. For dinner that evening, I made a chicken salad, with grapefruit segments and toasted pine nuts. Dessert was an olive oil cake with a ruby red grapefruit drizzle. Not a crumb remained !

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Not So Many Limits in Austin

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, explains why there are Not So Many Limits in Austin

When writing about the food and lifestyle here in Texas , it is only right that I remind people that these are of course my personal experiences, views and opinions. November 22nd 2013 sees the 50th anniversary of the assassination of President John F Kennedy in Dallas, Texas. November 23rd 2012 saw the death of the well loved actor, Larry Hagman who played the notorious villain and scoundrel, JR Ewing on the long running television show 'Dallas'.

For most, the aforementioned people spring to mind when referring to Dallas, and indeed the state of Texas, but this city and indeed state is changing and evolving all the time, with a culture and lifestyle that extends far beyond oil, money and firearms.

The current food scene in Texas is extremely exciting. Austin, the capital of Texas has a food scene that is literally en fuego (on fire) right now. This lively city has virtually got it all in my opinion. New York is New York, great city, great food, great theatre but Austin has to be experienced to be appreciated. It is a young city.

The University of Texas anchors the city along with tech and IT businesses. Also known as the 'Live music capital of the World'. Music is everywhere. Upon arrival at Austin International airport, on the streets, in the grocery stores and even at city council meetings at times.

It is a city for dreamers, where anything is possible, or so it seems. It has a far more bohemian feel than here in Dallas. Shoppers are likely to be spotted wearing flip flops whilst foraging for organic foods, recycling their grocery store bags and sipping on green tea. The food truck scene, unlike anywhere else in the country has a culture all of its own.

Here, Austin knows how to do food trucks! If you are in the mood for a little Ethiopian food, fish n chips, cupcakes, Cuban, Thai, vegan or southern then there is a truck for you. Some come with picnic benches and tents. Most recently the family owned G'raj Mahal extended their Indian food truck with a tented covered patio area for diners. Their traditional Indian cuisine is made from local and organic ingredients wherever possible, sourcing gallons of fresh yogurt from local farmers.

Austin's food scene is a dynamic food scene that is attracting people from all the country. The city's food sector has a “$4.1 billion impact annually and supports more than 43,000 jobs in the metro area” as per the report presented to the city council on March 28th 2013.

Some suggestions that have been made to aid in the continued growth and sustainability of these businesses is to create a mobile grocery business. This would enable restaurants and food trucks to purchase local and organic products directly from the vendors. This link is a copy of the report, outlining the Economic Impact of Austin's food sector. My hope in sharing this with you is that it may inspire and offer resources to others who want to develop this industry in their own area.

Perhaps it is no surprise really that the sustainable food business is thriving in Austin. In 1978, John Mackey and Rene Lawson borrowed money from family and friends to start a natural foods market, know as 'Whole Foods'. Austin plays host to the annual food & wine festival every April.

The line up for the weekend reads like the who's of who of food in the culinary world. This year fourteen chefs went head to head for an evening under the stars for a taco throw down. 'Rock your Taco' has become a hugely popular event. The taco is a staple here thanks to the South American influence.

Each chef adds their own signature twist and flair to the traditional tortilla. Shredded pork, smoked beef, barbecued beef, curried lamb and salted fish are among some of the fillings. Accompanied by local beers and fine wines, attendees get to sample and judge the winner.

Rachel’s Fish & Garden Taco

Inspired by these events I experimented with some fish and ingredients from my own fridge and garden. I used dover sole and tilapia, fresh cilantro (known as coriander in Europe) fresh limes, red onions, white cabbage, tomatoes and more to make this fresh and delicious evening meal.

Heat your frying pan and add canola or rapeseed oil. I tend to use these oils or peanut oil when I need to fry as they are more tolerant of heat. Olive oil burns faster, feel free to use but be aware so as not to burn the fish.

Cut your white fish, I used tilapia and sole, into 3 or 4 inch sized pieces. Add to pan. I then added some slices of fresh lime, a little grated lime zest, cracked black pepper and cooked until tender. You could add a little smoky seasoned salt if you wish also.

INGREDIENTS FOR SPICY SLAW

3 medium sized tomatoes
2 jalapeno peppers finely sliced (be careful not to touch seeds and then touch your skin)
1 head of napa cabbage or white cabbage finely shredded
1 red onion finely sliced
1 fresh lime
1 avocado
1 bunch fresh cilantro coarsely chopped
cracked black pepper & salt

Combine all of the above ingredients in a bowl.

MAYONNAISE SPREAD (This may sound unusual but it was a delicious addition)

6-7 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 - 1 teaspoon curry powder

Combine above in a bowl. Really stir the curry powder in well. This was an impromptu addition but it worked really well.

Spread some of this on a corn or flour tortilla, flake your fish and spoon some spicy slaw on top. Enjoy.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Are You Being Served?

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, shares some of the good - and, revealingly, some of the not so good - experiences of a recent visit back to Ireland with her family

It was my baby brother’s wedding and my oldest son’s last summer with us prior to leaving for college in 2014, and for those reasons I booked a three week holiday to Ireland. We were leaving behind the searing, oppressive Texas heat and seasonal allergies for the fresh sea air of the Atlantic coast. We were not disappointed. It did not bother me in the least for the few days that it rained, as I could still breathe after all and that, for me, was a gift.

Since my return home, to Texas (that is my home now after all these years!) I have been sharing my experiences with people who had been following my visit through various social media sites. Only last week, I sat in the football stands for the opening of high school football season (American football) and parents asked me about various places, dishes, recipes, fishing and sailing spots.

I told them all that was good and great about Ireland. The people, the places and the food. Do I tell them about my negative experiences? The answer of course, is absolutely not. Does anyone really want to hear about your awful experience in a particular restaurant? I doubt it. Now, the question is, what about the restaurant? Do they want to hear about your awful experience and how receptive are they to your comments and feedback?

I am, perhaps opening up a rather large can of worms here and it may garner some interesting reactions and it may just start up a conversation or dialogue about customer retention. Let me also say that I come from an hotel background. I began in the Rochestown Park Hotel the year they first opened in 1989. From here I went to London and worked for hotels in the surrounding areas before spending 4 years at the London Tara hotel which, for those of you who may remember him, was managed by Eoin Dillon. From here I moved to the Tower Thistle Hotel at London Bridge and then to head office. Enough said about my background, but felt it necessary to share for those that think I do not know the ‘service or hospitality’ industry.

My experiences in several locations in Ireland were quite frankly appalling. I am not going to name these restaurants but share my experiences in the hope that it will be taken as constructive rather than personal criticism.

I sat in a restaurant on one occasion with my parents and children. We ordered our drinks and then our food. Our drinks arrived and twenty minutes later the food arrived for my sons but not for my parents. After an hour my father and mother got up and left the restaurant. We were told we never ordered anything. No apology but rather passed the blame back to us.

Two days later my husband and I were driving and stopped at a little restaurant in the main town. The sign said there was seating upstairs, so up we went. The tables were indeed empty but not one had been cleared or cleaned yet. We returned downstairs and ordered food at the bar. Twenty minutes passed and still no sign of our bowls of soup.

Restaurant upstairs was empty and the remaining tables were having their coffee. We continued to wait. Finally we asked. “Oh we are out of the tomato soup” came the reply. The waitress smelled of freshly inhaled cigarette smoke. It was obvious where she had been.

We ordered sandwiches. Another twenty minutes went by and we were now here over 45 minutes sitting with an empty glass. When our food arrived we both looked at my husband’s food and then I heard him say, “What’s this?” “Tuna Melt” came the reply... “But I didn’t order a Tuna Melt” he said. “Yes, you did.” I was shocked. Was this lady really arguing with my husband about what he ordered? Indeed she was. He decided to keep it because he was so hungry and was afraid he would have to wait another twenty minutes before eating.

I could ramble on about each negative experience (there were indeed plenty more, mostly really rude wait staff, which is a real shame when the chefs produce such wonderful food) but feel the two above will suffice and help explain what I am talking about.

I have booked 110 room nights over the last few weeks to Ireland. My clients come to me for advice and want to know about the ‘Real Ireland’ that I talk about. All of these people have also asked me to reserve their restaurants for lunches and dinners as they want to enjoy the wonderful food I tell them about. Suffice to say, the places I mentioned above will not be on my list.

To be perfectly honest, I really don’t care if the waitress was having a bad day or if it’s hard to get the staff. Those are not my concerns when I am paying for food.

Wholesome Fayre It is true that I live in the United States and customer service in restaurants is without a doubt exceptional. Do you ever wonder why? I’ll tell you. Two reasons. For some locations it’s simply in their nature. The Texans for example. They are naturally a friendly and hospitable people. Not quite so in other parts of the country, perhaps!

The second, and probably the most important, reason is the almighty dollar. Let me explain. Waiters and waitresses are assigned areas in restaurants and as a result they are trying to ‘turn tables’ in order to make more money in tips. Tipping is of course another issue and I am well aware of the tipping differences between Ireland and the USA. That being said, people still get tips in Ireland, even if they are smaller. The efficiency I get here (USA) when eating out is second to none. My water glass never stays empty. There are ‘bus boys’ to clean the tables, thus allowing the waitress to do her job and keep the flow.

The restaurant I mentioned above did not notice our empty glasses and as you pay for each drink in Ireland, they missed the opportunity of selling more to us. We felt so uncomfortable in so many places, that we felt as though we were putting people out. To that end we paid our bill and left. It was raining on this particular day and we would have preferred to stay and order desserts and coffees but just wanted to leave.

Finally after two weeks we arrived in Killarney. Ah, Killarney. What is it about Killarney? The people seem to have hospitality in their blood and DNA. Where else but in Killarney could this happen: a complete stranger (a construction worker) saw me helping my brother (who was getting married in 2 hours) fix his buttonhole and those of all his groomsmen as they were in a panic!

This stranger captured some special moments on camera and the next day there was a plastic bag left on the car. It contained developed and printed 5x7 photographs of these moments. We do not know who he was, but I did find a photo with him in the background walking over from the building site! Brought a tear to my eye...

In Killarney, I ate at ‘Bricin’ and ‘The Wholesome Fayre’ and the service was exceptional in both places. In fact the latter was so good that I have since booked in a group of 8 people from Dallas, another group of 4 and a couple next week. I took some clients there and we celebrated my brother in law’s birthday there also. All because of one person. Her name was Janet. Janet manages this new brasserie, cooking school and food hall. I had simply found them on Twitter. Janet oozed Killarney warmth. The food was incredible, as was the cheese and wine fridge and food hall carrying all local and artisanal products from around the country. It is located across the street from ‘The Killarney Park Hotel’ another place that had exceptional service.

My sister is expecting her first baby and was not feeling hungry for anything on the menu. Janet put together a selection of foods for her and checked with the chef if any of them were on her ‘No List’. These were perhaps simple things to Janet but we had been devoid of this service for a few weeks, so it was like a breath of fresh air. I knew that I could now book my clients into these restaurants.

When I shared my experiences with some of my friends in Ireland, I was told I had become a yank . (This of course is only an Irish persons name for an American, because Yank only implies New York in the USA). I expected customer service so that made me an American. I also noticed that my friends and some family members on occasion were too nervous to send food back when it was either overdone or underdone.

I have always expected good customer service, whether I was working or living in Ireland, London, Dallas or Chicago. I wonder if I am alone in this? If not, what can be done? What needs to be done? For what it’s worth, I also believe, for the most part, that in any organisation it always comes from the top down. I would be interested to hear feedback, but encourage a constructive dialogue here rather a critical dialogue.

The food in Ireland is world class and it is a shame for one element to be the downfall of a business.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Pumpkin Time

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, reveals that In America just like Ireland, Autumn is Pumpkin Time

Autumn and pumpkins simply go together like fish and chips and salt and pepper, especially at Hallowe’en of course, and the tradition of pumpkin carving or ‘Jack-O-Lanterns’ that had its origins in Ireland (stemming from the old tale of ‘Stingy Jack’) is also very much part of the holiday tradition here in the United States.

It is big business for the farmers in the United States, with my state of Texas being the fourth largest state for commercial production of pumpkins. According to ‘Texas A & M University’s’ horticultural department, approximately 8,000 acres are planted annually, predominantly in the west Texas region.

Mostly pumpkins are used for ornamental use, when people carve them for the spooky holiday or decorate their tables with these and other gourds, but some varieties are also useful in cooking and keep very well for use throughout the winter as long as the skin is not damaged.

The first year I decided to cook and bake with a pumpkin, I was a complete novice. I wrongly assumed that the pumpkins I purchased for carving could also be used for cooking and baking. Oh, how wrong I was. While edible, these pumpkins are not the best choice for cooking as they are stringy and the flesh is watery.

After a few years of trial and error and asking questions, I finally accumulated enough information to be a little adventurous! Here are a few things I have learned and can offer a few tips, based on my own cooking and baking experiences.

Pie Pumpkin - These are smaller than the jack-o-lantern pumpkins used for carving. They are also a lot sweeter. I use these for making soups and pumpkin loaves.

Jarrahdale Pumpkin - This pumpkin is popular in Australia. Over here in the United States, it belongs to the heirloom variety. This is also a great pumpkin to bake with and is slate in color.

Cinderalla Pumpkin - Bright Red in Colour. Its name came from the fact that it resembled the pumpkin carriage from the famed fairy tale. It can also be used for baking but is used for decorative purposes mostly because of its bright colour.

Pumpkin Seeds - Most people discard their seeds, once scraped out of the pumpkins but if you can spare a little time, these roasted and salted seeds are simply delicious.

RECIPE:

Wash and dry the Pumpkin Seeds thoroughly.

Melt a little butter and add some sea salt. Toss the seeds in the melted butter and spread them on a lined baking sheet. The most important thing here is to make sure they are spread evenly in a single layer. This allows them to roast properly. I bake mine for 40-45 minutes, turning them once to ensure even roasting. Make sure the oven is preheated to 375 degrees . These alone are a delicious snack but added to orzo and roasted butternut squash makes a tasty and crunchy meal.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Food Trends for 2014

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, shares her thoughts on the Food Trends she sees shaping up for 2014

In the last few weeks, I have read articles, glanced at various headlines, listened to the radio, watched the television and observed through social media the chatter regarding food trends for 2014. Some have been mentioned repeatedly and others in isolation.

Umami, the fifth taste is becoming a popular topic. Although not new for those who are immersed in the food industry, to others it may be their first time hearing about this. In brief, the four tastes are sweet, sour, bitter and salty and now umami is recognized as the fifth taste.

Did you know that babies actually experience umami from their mother’s milk when they are seven days old. It is a savoury taste that occurs naturally in fish, vegetables, meat and dairy products. The taste is subtle and it is now used to expand and round out other flavors.

A few years ago, I purchased a jar of umami paste and a jar of umami salt. I used both when cooking to test it out. To be honest, I did notice a difference when I made my spaghetti sauce. It was smoother. Recently, ‘Forbes’ magazine listed umami salt in their ‘Top 12 hottest food trends 2014’ . This is merely salt with umami added to it. Perhaps this is a product that could be introduced to the market from Ireland? Just a thought.

Ice cream sandwiches, locally sourced foods, farm to table dinners, exotic meats and infused ice cubes are among the chatter for food trends predicted here in the United States for this year.

Exotic meats are a global prediction with the return of rabbit, pigeon and goat. I find it very interesting that the ‘Midwestern Food Movement’ is becoming extremely popular. It involves sourcing local ingredients, home cooked simple, hearty meals and new ways of cooking with root vegetables. It encourages the use of foraged foods and strives to revive arable farming. One might be forgiven for thinking we are returning to our past.

I have long believed that we are desperately trying to re invent the wheel. I for one, have cooked and used root vegetables in my cooking classes for quite some time now. Thanks to my heritage, I am no stranger to turnips, parsnips and celeriac. What was once a staple in my house is now becoming quite vogue in 2014.

It will be interesting to see what new ways people will present these. I for one, hope the deluge of cupcakes and cake pops fade into the background a little, not wishing them to disappear completely for the sake of people who make them, but allow more savoury items to step to the forefront. I long to see swedes (or rutabagas as they are called here) make a grand appearance.

I would dearly like to hear from anyone in Ireland if they have any unusual ways of cooking or baking with root vegetables. It would be nice to introduce him or her to people over here. Perhaps you have a recipe you would like to share. If so, contact me and I will share it along with any photographs.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Discerning Trips to Ireland

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, shares valuable insights into the hopes and expectations of discerning travelers to Ireland - and how they can be met successfully.

In January, I was contacted by a lady from Austin, Texas. I had arranged a trip to Ireland for her friends in August 2013 and now she wanted me to arrange her family trip. In the last nine months I have sent ten groups to Ireland from here. For privacy’s sake, I am calling my current client Alison.

Alison and her husband have taken their children to eighteen countries but Ireland was not one of them and it certainly was not on their radar until they had spoken to their friends. Alison flew to Dallas for business so we took the opportunity to meet in person and discuss their itinerary. We sat in the restaurant and I began with the usual questions. When did she plan on visiting, how long did they want to stay, how many people etc.

Once these details were documented, I sat back and did what I always do. I chatted and listened. People do not realise they are dropping clues about their lives and interests that I can pick on when planning their trip.

I learned that her oldest daughter sang in musicals and acted on the stage in numerous plays. She and her husband are history buffs. She is on the board for an historical society and preservation group. Those details alone had me firing on all cylinders.

Now, this is where social media comes in to play. I follow Twitter and Facebook very closely. I learn about upcoming exhibits in the National Art Gallery and the National Library of Ireland. I learn when to avoid certain places if there are conferences or concerts taking place. Tweets about great food always catch my attention. Book signings, cultural exhibits, food festivals, sailing courses and whale watching tweets have resulted in many bookings from me.

This family is not Irish. Their ancestors are not Irish. They would like to experience the rich culture, breathe in the fresh air rain or shine, escaping the searing Texas heat, walk along the beaches, hike in the mountains, meet the characters and savour the food.

Their trip will begin with a couple of days in Dublin, staying at the Merrion Hotel. We have hired a car and driver for the entire trip, allowing the luxury of sitting back and relaxing. After all, it is their vacation. A visit to the ‘Book of Kells’ is a must but following that a visit with the Irish Georgian Society is on the agenda.

From Dublin they will drive to Kinsale, stopping in Tipperary for lunch at the ‘Old Convent’. Perryville House will be home for a few days allowing them to visit Desmond Castle and the International Wine Museum and dinner at ‘Fishy Fishy’.

I have urged them to stay at the ‘Killarney Park Hotel’. I visited and stayed there last year for two nights. I have said it before and I will say it again, I believe the service in Killarney is possibly the best in Ireland. The people there just seem to have it in their DNA !

The final leg of their trip will be three nights at Dromoland Castle as they really wanted to stay at a castle and have their family portrait taken there for their Christmas card this year. This means I have been looking for a photographer also.

Anyone reading this article will see why I am constantly connected to Ireland. My clients all want to experience Ireland in different ways. For Alison and her family, I have arranged some very special experiences which will include visiting the University of Limerick, whale watching in West Cork and salmon tasting in Co Clare.

Please keep sharing your news, I’m always watching and always looking for experiences.

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Cultural Tourism in Ireland

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, is turning her attention to other aspects of Irish culture - especially our historic buildings

Spring has certainly arrived here in Texas. The landscape is carpeted with the ubiquitous site of ‘Texas Blue Bonnets’. Families can be seen photographing their little ones as they wade through this blue and at times purple sea. Flowers are indeed one of the first signs of spring and along with it brings the rebirth of things that have being lying dormant all winter.

Perhaps it is no coincidence that I am excited about the rebirth of the Irish Georgian Society here in North Texas. “The Irish Georgian Society is a membership organisation whose purpose is to promote awareness and the protection of Ireland’s architectural heritage and decorative arts.”

It was founded in 1958 by the Hon. Desmond Guinness and Mariga Guinness for the protection of buildings of architectural merit in Ireland. It is based in Dublin but has chapters in the UK and USA also. In the 1970’s and 1980’s the Dallas chapter was an extremely vibrant and active chapter.

During these years Desmond Guinness was a frequent visitor to Dallas Fort Worth and as a result the people here travelled to Ireland in support of his mission to save the buildings in Ireland that are in danger of being destroyed. At a later stage I plan on telling the story of the people here in Dallas Fort Worth that to this day still travel to Ireland and donate their money to preserve our national heritage.

This is neither folly nor a whim of the idle rich. This is a deep rooted passion for preserving and conserving our past and our heritage. The longer I live in this country, the more I identify with this commitment. I have now committed to joining this group and picking up where some have left off.

Much work needs to be done. Although raising funds is the primary objective so places like ‘Castletown House’ in Co Kildare (see image), ‘Damer House’ in Co Tipperary and ‘Doneraile Court’ Co Cork could be saved from demolition, appreciation for Irish craftsmanship is equally important.

When I was growing up in Cork, my father used to say to me that people who lived next door to the church tended to be last to mass! As the years rolled by, I moved to London and lived in South Kensington. I did not visit the Royal Albert Hall until a return visit some years later. I took it for granted. I lived a mere short distance from it and was never in a hurry to visit. I do not think there is to be any blame for taking these magnificent buildings for granted until the threat of demolition comes along or you move away completely.

After all, growing up in Cork, walking up the sycamore tree lined avenue of the Ursuline Convent every morning was merely walking up the avenue to school, my daily grind! Playing music and attending the Cork School of Music each and every week was also part of my schedule and not a time to stop and admire the buildings of my own lovely Lee. All that has changed for me now.

So, what to do about it? My answer has always been and will always be tourism. I have some pretty strong ideas about how Ireland is marketed here in the United States but I will leave that topic alone right now. (That is a topic for another day.)

If you read through the Irish Georgian Society website you can read where Desmond Guinness wrote in their newsletter back in 1960 ‘We are the only country in Europe that has not yet developed its architecture as a tourist asset’. I agree wholeheartedly.

In the early 1990’s, I proposed the idea that Ireland market itself as a tourist attraction for her ingredients. ‘What a ridiculous idea Rachel’ was what I frequently heard. We now know how this has turned out. It did not happen overnight. It happened because a became a trend. To become a trend, there must be enough people demanding the same thing all at once. The great advantage of aging, I find, is that I care less and less what people think. To those who think this is a ridiculous idea, so be it. For myself, I certainly do not intend to wait like I did in my twenties and thirties.

I have begun the process of planning trips to Ireland for people who are interested in history, culture, architecture and music. These trips are not intended for ‘The Irish’ they are intended for anyone with an interest in travel and the aforementioned. I will leave you with the words of George Bernard Shaw: “People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it”.

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Why is Irish food and cooking still laughed at in America?

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the flag for Ireland in Texas, asks why is Irish food and cooking still laughed at in America?

Some articles end with a disclaimer but I am going to begin with it. The following are my own observations and opinions. They come from over eighteen years of experience living and working in the United States. I say this now to prevent readers suffering any elevation of blood pressure!

Last week I was working with clients and their comments prompted this article. They will be visiting Ireland in September. Four people for eleven days. They know about the golf. They have heard all about our green fields and of course our hospitality but when food is mentioned it is almost always followed by a scoff or chuckle.

Rachel Allen does indeed appear on the ‘Cooking Channel’ here in the U.S, Darina often visits New York and other major cities with Tourism Ireland or Kerrygold, Irish chefs appear at roadshows, specials appear on public television and their are numerous web sites selling Irish food. So why, I ask or at least you should be asking is Irish food and cooking still laughed at? It is still the butt of many a joke and lingers in the same category as the drunken Irish, a category that elevates my own blood pressure at the best of times.

Is it the job of Bord Bia or Tourism Ireland alone to change this perception? I think not. These are government agencies charged with promoting our country and facilitating trade for food and drink manufacturers. The rest is up to us.

I searched for ‘Irish Food In The USA’ through my search engine (Google in this case) and the immediate results were as follows. www.FoodIreland.com www.TommyMoloneys.com www.iGourmet.com www.Paddysnax.com www.Irishstore.com and www.Littleshamrocks.com The results may be different when tried from Ireland or on any given day or if tried from different search engines like Firefox or Bing, but you get the general idea. These sites above are great, especially for people like me, an Irish person who misses her box of Barry’s Tea, sausages, Christmas puddings and more.

The issue I see is that we (Ireland) have been really good at selling to the Irish instead of selling to people with disposable income. Two years ago I did a series of interviews with FOX TALK RADIO. During one of the interviews, I was asked about Irish food and products, why I was selling and promoting them when everyone knows that Ireland is not known for much more than potatoes.

Angry as that may make you, the fact remains, that although said in jest, it was said with an audience of millions listening, which only re-affirmed the old jokes.

I asked the interviewer if he knew of the brand ‘Le Creuset’. Indeed he did, came the reply, they had some in their own kitchen in fact. I then asked him if he or his family were French, or if they had always dreamed of going to France. The answer was no. People purchased it, not because of an affinity to a country or a longing to visit France but because of the quality , performance and more importantly because of brand recognition.

That is why I started my company ten years ago. I felt Ireland needed a brand. When people here in the U.S plan a vacation to Rome, they rarely do so because they are of Italian descent (although many do) but rather because Rome is a destination. Ireland should be a destination. Now, I will still take your money or plan your trip if you are Irish or if your great grandmother was Irish, but I market my brand to people with disposable income rather than people of Irish descent.

Knowing your market is absolutely crucial. If your product is successful in Ireland and/or the United Kingdom, that is great and gives you credibility but once you plan on taking your product to market in the USA you really must know your market.

Take a walk with me through the aisle of a high end grocery store called Central Market. Whole Foods would be its competitor. There are ten locations throughout Texas. Each store has its very own cooking school, flower shop, gift shop, gelato bar and café.

Kerrygold do indeed have the dairy aisle covered well. You will find Dubliner, Blarney, Aged Cheddar, Whiskey Cheddar and Cashel Blue Cheese as well as both salted and unsalted butter. Now this is where it gets very interesting. The aisles are laced with Italian olive oils, Spanish olive oils, olives and bread sticks, spices from India, wines and craft beers from around the world, seafood from Hawaii, Ecuador, a chocolate bar with chocolates from all over the world, an annual Swiss chocolate event, imported delicacies from Europe at the deli counter and Pipers Crisps from the United Kingdom. All are packaged and marketed beautifully.

Then you look for Irish foods. You will be looking and looking. On March 17th you can find crates of beer piled high at the entrance to the store along with wasabi peas and bottles of Sprite, the green theme. Oh yes, you will find the Kerrygold line of products in the dairy aisle, mixed among Stilton Cheese, Wensleydale, Stilton and Devon Cream.

Each country gets its own sign, but Irish cheeses are listed under Great Britain. I asked why they do not have an Irish sign. The answer I received was that Ireland was part of Great Britain so it’s all the same anyway. It is not all the same anyway. So who is responsible here? Central Market? Kerrygold? The Distributor? The answer is all of the above.

Brand Recognition is everything. It is the beginning, the middle and the end. You may have the tastiest preserve, the most heavenly smoked fish and the finest tabletop products for the kitchen (Category used to describe kitchen products here in the USA) but none of it matters if people do not know about them. People need to know the stories about the manufacturers.

I have skipped ahead a little too far perhaps by talking about marketing. Of course, marketing is only important once you are actually on a shelf. Are you ready for the U.S market? What should you know before going to market in the U.S? These and other items will be addressed next month as I continue this discussion of ‘Irish Food in the USA’

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http://rachelgaffneysrealireland.com

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Before & After

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas compares some visitor expectations with their actual experiences in Ireland - and feels gratified

Over the last few years, I have arranged many trips to Ireland for clients from Texas. The conversations with them before their trip and afterwards are quite astonishing and extremely gratifying. I feel immense pride and a little smug. Smug, because. deep within, there is a voice saying “I told you so”.

It all begins when I receive an email or phone call asking me to help put together a trip to Ireland. Some have Irish ancestry but most do not. Most have been to Europe and other parts of the world and Ireland is one country remaining on their ‘to visit list’.

At times a mere after thought or somewhere to cross off your list. Indeed there are those who have always wanted to visit but the majority of my clients in the last 2 years have fallen into the former category.

They are well informed about golf. They know about our pub culture, our iconic green fields, rolling hills and our infamous rain. They all have passports. (110 million out of 313 million Americans have passports, according to the Bureau of Consular Affairs at the US State Department). They give me their travel dates and I arrange a meeting with them.

Our initial meeting usually begins with a large, well used and loved map of Ireland spread across a table. I outline the airports and best travel routes and we begin from there. As their trip begins to take shape, I find that they are now on their own personal journey and their interests and passions emerge during our conversations. This helps me to plan their activities and suggest places of interest for them.

One lady was telling me she had just moved her father from his home in Kentucky. It involved sorting, packing and cataloguing his book collection. I asked if this was something she too enjoyed and discovered that she had studied English and literature and it was still her love.

I suggested that she visit the W B Yeats exhibit at the National Library of Ireland and spend some time in the ‘Reading Room’. A literary tour of Dublin was also arranged. Although this may seem like a natural fit and pretty easy to arrange, I find that many people do not know what they want or what they want to see. Spending time with them, I discover a lot about them.

This year I have received thank you cards and presents from my clients. I cannot seem to remember a time in my previous life, when I received presents from people who paid me to do a job. Perhaps it just speaks of their thoughtful nature and kindness but I like to think it’s because they really were thoroughly impressed by their time in Ireland.

I visited Ireland again for two weeks in July, visiting Cavan, Mayo, Limerick, Cork and Dublin. My philosophy is quite simple. If I won’t stay there, then I won’t put you there. I spent one night at MacNean House in Blacklion, Co Cavan and was thoroughly impressed.

The combination of simplicity, taste and attention to detail was perfect. The Voya Irish seaweed products in the bathrooms were hung from the shower walls with dispensers. It was a pleasure not to be fiddling with teeny tiny shampoo bottles but rather indulging in these organic products.

I recall walking down a corridor in the evening, entering a dark ante room and just as I walked in the lights came on as if expecting me. A lovely reading nook beckoned me. The bookcase was filled with books sent to Neven Maguire and almost all were autographed. I picked up a book with an iconic logo, that of the Tayto guy (one that is only known to Irish people!) Sitting, leafing through this book, brought childhood memories surging back. I smiled at Mr Tayto.

I made my way through the house, stopping only to pick up my pre dinner drink from the bar, a refreshing fruit cocktail. Generally speaking I do not like fruit drinks as I find them to be terribly sweet. I had a second glass. The blend was perfect. I like to think it was created for my palate!

I sat with my friend on the terraced garden, beneath the flourishing poly tunnels and we talked about Tayto crisps and ice cream cones. The book had done this, it had evoked memories and initiated unexpected conversation.

The food at MacNean House was superb. It was an experience I have yet to encounter anywhere else and do not expect to again. My time there was brief, but left me wanting more, so much so that I plan on bringing a group to Cavan on a culinary tour in 2015.

While I was in Ireland, I received a call from a client. They loved Ireland so much that they now want to purchase a vacation home there. He and she were in love. They had travelled the world but felt that “the best was saved for last”. Just this week I received another call from another client who would now like to purchase a 3 or 4 bedroomed home in Ireland also.

The golf was as they expected it to be. The food was not. It came as quite a shock and pleasant surprise to them. The ability to inhale deeply and fill your lungs with the Atlantic sea air is so invigorating that it has prompted one to purchase property along the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’. I would say that putting your money where your mouth is proves, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that Ireland is indeed a very special island.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Like a Phoenix Rising

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in the States tells us about the revival of the Texas Chapter of the Irish Georgian Society

The Irish Times 23rd July 1953 ~ ‘Sir, As the Georgian Society seems to have lapsed, has anyone objection to my restarting it? Our aims are to bring the photographic records up to date, publish further volumes of the Georgian Society’s books, and fight for the preservation of what is left of Georgian architecture in Ireland’
Yours, etc
Desmond Guinness

7 months later , February 21st 1958, the Irish Georgian Society was established. Chapters opened up in Chicago, New York, Palm Beach and Dallas.

After several years of slumber, the Texas chapter has been reborn, rising like a phoenix from the ashes. Following in his fathers footsteps, Patrick Guinness is now leading the charge as President of the Irish Georgian Society. So, to help revive the Texas chapter, he visited Dallas for the weekend as we announced plans for the year ahead, shared success stories and talked about the crucial work still to be done.

I knew I needed to find people who shared the same passion for preserving our heritage, people who loved architecture and people who supported restoration and craftsmanship to aid in this endeavor.

It wasn’t long before a couple here in Dallas, Amanda and Brint Ryan, stepped up to the plate and embraced our quest. With a name like Ryan, one would wonder if he were Irish, and one would be correct. Although not an Irish native, he is indeed of Irish descent, and no prizes for guessing Tipperary!

Brint Ryan, chairman and CEO of Ryan LLC www.Ryan.com (a global tax services firm, with new offices recently opened in Dublin) has long been known for his love of history, philanthropy and heritage.

His most recent accomplishment was the meticulous restoration of the Hotel Settles, in Big Spring, Texas. www.hotelsettles.com. People scoffed at this ambitious project, said it could not be done, that he was crazy to do it, and that it would lose money. Well, I’ll leave you to click on this link and form your own opinion ! https://texasarchitects.org/v/article-detail/Hotel-Settles-A-Bell-Cow-Rings-Again/d2/

Irish Georgian Society Party They say the devil is on the detail, and no better person to prove this point than his wife, Amanda Ryan. I saw this trait as she prepared to host the party with my husband and I for the Irish Georgian Society.

She chose every flower so they would match the colors on the invitations, so the floral arrangements in the grand foyer would complement the art hanging on the walls. The tablecloths on the veranda had to be unobtrusive, the servers needed to be everywhere at all times and no-one was to go unfed or left without a drink. Her attention to detail, her convivial and welcoming spirit made for an altogether lovely evening for us all.

The following day, I was hosting a brunch. I now needed somewhere a little different. I did not want to host this in yet another restaurant or country club. I had an idea. I wanted to host it in the same place I teach my cooking classes. A new appliance store. Yes, you heard me, an appliance store. But, not any appliance store. This is PIRCH. I reached out to the store director, Tammy Wood and, as I suspected, she was on board.

If you have a vision, your best bet is to work with people who also think outside the box. Together with the executive chef, John Miccio. and chef, John Simon, Tammy set about arranging brunch with me for our special guest Mr Patrick Guinness.

Kerrygold shipped in the cheeses and butters for both days and were featured prominently in all the recipes. Of course, these dairy products were featured as a way of introducing the quality ingredients that the island of Ireland has to offer to our American audience.

Wood Burining Pizza Oven PIRCH is a high end, luxury appliance store. Upon entering, you are greeted by their team of baristas who are employed to make you a complimentary coffee, latte or espresso of your choice. You can meander through the aisles of Japanese toilets, luxury bath tubs, stop at one of the many AGA’s on display, speak to a custom cabinet maker. Perhaps you have discovered a shower that may interest you. No problem, you can bring your swimsuit to your next visit and try them out for yourself.

Pirch is not a store but an experience. Executive chef John Miccio and his staff are there all day, preparing and offering complimentary food for you to taste. As the holiday season is under way, pastry chef Connie can be found painstakingly decorating home made gingerbread houses as she prepares them to be donated for the Ronald McDonald House (home for sick kids awaiting organ donors).

Our brunch was held in the outdoor grill kitchen. Complete with wood burning pizza oven, large screen TV with Sunday football on in the background for those who did not want to miss the Dallas Cowboys play, the Patio Grill was a hive of activity.

Patrick Guinness making pizza We could not help but laugh as Chef Miccio attempted to teach Patrick Guinness how to toss pizza dough. Suffice to say, pizzas are best left to the Italians and I think we’ll let the Guinness family stick to making beer!

We enjoyed breakfast pizzas with home made sausage, topped with Kerrygold Aged Cheddar, Amaretto French Toast cooked on the new EVO grill, Fried egg Pizza, fresh raspberries and so much more. Robert O’Byrne, Vice President of the Irish Georgian Society entertained people with his extensive knowledge of Irish architectural history.

For the last four days I have been receiving emails, texts and phone calls calling the weekend a huge success. We now have new supporters and more importantly people who are eager to visit Ireland.

Years ago, I was introduced to the Russian American novelist, playwright and philosopher, Ayn Rand. As I write this article, one of her ideals springs to mind ‘join other people when you have real values in common and go your separate way when you don’t’.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares a Twitter success story, of converting social media interaction into business

There are many social media sceptics among us, and who can blame them for being that way. We hear the horror stories relating to cyber bullying and of people’s identities being hacked. Perhaps the worst and most baffling of all these social media horror stories is the modern form of narcissism, known as the ‘selfie’. Yes, this constant need to take a photo of oneself in front of a mirror and then share with the world. I think I will leave this puzzling phenomenon to the professionals to figure out!

Does someone’s reply to another on Twitter make a difference or really matter when you are trying to grow your business or promote your business? I think it does. In 1971 Professor Lorenz at MIT presented his paper “Predictability, does the flap of a butterfly’s wings in Brazil set off a tornado in Texas?”, which came to be known as the ‘Butterfly Effect’

I am here , in Dallas, Texas, approximately four and half thousand miles away (7k km) from Ireland. I am connected to my homeland as most of my family live there, I have numerous subscriptions to publications and frequently listen to Irish radio in my home.

Indeed I am a frequent traveller there, but it is actually social media and the daily communication via Twitter that provides me with the information that I seek when planning my clients trips. It is here that I get to know who I want to do business with.

On April 20th 2015, my first group will meet me in Dublin. We will be going on a culinary adventure around Ireland. Most of the people in this group will arrive earlier and depart later but all of us will be together for a week.

They have asked me for suggestions on where to visit and where to stay when in Ireland. I would like hoteliers, producers, tour guides, small businesses, authors, museums, craft beer companies and anyone else with a product or service to know, that Twitter works. When you post, we or at least I am listening, watching, observing and taking note. You see, your brand has a voice. Your voice is indeed your brand.

You may find it a little creepy or even think that it smacks of a little voyeurism! Perhaps, but it is the truth. I find it interesting to watch and listen as people chat to each other and engage. I get a ‘feel’ for the person, product or service. I am forming an opinion of your brand.

When you reply, retweet, engage, when you are kind to others, when you help others or share in their success stories, I am more likely to continue following and engaging with you. Conversely, when you are critical and even sarcastic, I am more likely to unfollow you. This is a global platform and although you may intend for only your followers to read what you post, others may retweet to their followers. Therefore the power of amplification is crucial.

Let me give you an example of what I consider to be the ‘Butterfly Effect’. How did I choose or book the various places and activities for April? It is indeed important to have certain standards, hotel gradings etc but that is not how I choose for my clients.

At the risk of sounding perfectly ‘corny’ simple customer service and courtesy wins every time. 4 years ago, I came across Dr Prannie Rhatigan, author of the ‘Irish Seaweed Kitchen’. Yes, she is indeed well known in Sligo, in Ireland and globally for her infinite knowledge about seaweed. However, I did not know her.

I was researching this subject, recalling a one week course I attended 21 years ago, in Knockadoon, Co Cork. 5 days learning about the lower, middle and upper zones, wading in wellies, ambling over rocks, popping mounds of bladderwrack.

Letter I typed in #seaweed into ‘Tweetdeck’ to see what would I could find. I found companies in Canada, Australia and England. Talks about it being the superfood to watch and places to bathe in it.

Then I spotted ‘The Irish Seaweed Kitchen’. Prannie’s interaction with others caught my attention. I clicked on the avatar and followed the link to the website and began to read and read and read ! I was compelled to send an email. I wanted to purchase this book. Prannie and I exchanged a few emails and before long we were chatting on the phone. I recalled my days scrambling around the rugged cove between Youghal and Ballycotton for seaweed as a teenager. Weeks following our conversation, my book arrived and this was written inside

Rachel
I hope this brings back lots of wonderful memories of childhood on the seashore. Enjoy the book and hopefully, we will meet soon
Kind Regards
Prannie

I was, needless to say, touched by this.

Twitter Chat When I began planning this culinary adventure for April, I reached out to Prannie in 2014, quite simply by sending her a direct message via Twitter. She promptly replied while visiting Australia. Through this interaction with social media, we now have a group visiting Sligo to forage for seaweed with Dr Prannie Rhatigan.

Another group is planned for September and, through Prannie, I met Senator Susan O’Keeffe on Twitter. I knew my great grandparents came from Sligo but only had the name of a small holding. For years we had searched for this place on the map but could not find it. I thought I had nothing to lose by asking Senator O’Keeffe if she had heard of this place. She did. It turns out that it is located just minutes from Cromleach Lodge and Spa. A spa that I was looking at for future clients. A spa that carries my favourite seaweed products from Sligo ‘Voya’

“Lorenz realized that small differences in a dynamic system such as the atmosphere - or a model of the atmosphere -could trigger vast and often unsuspected results.” says MIT News April 16, 2008 Perhaps each tweet you answer mimics that of each flap of the butterfly wing.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares the first instalment of a recent Culinary Adventure in Ireland

It was their first visit to Ireland. Everyone had heard about the green fields, rugged coastlines and friendly people. The months leading up to their departure prompted my group to read as much as they could about Ireland. They scoured guide books, googled Ireland, Irish customs, Irish weather and Irish food. They had expectations, great expectations when it came to everything aforementioned except for the food.

One lady explained that bacon and cabbage was the first result that appeared on the web site ‘Food.com’ as a result of googling Irish food, followed by Wikipedia’s synopsis that Irish stew, coddle and boxty were representative of Irish dishes.

Nowadays, Irish people know better. They are almost as informed as the food blogger, the Foodie, the chefs and the people who are circulating in the thriving food sector in Ireland. The fact still remains however, that people have pre-conceived ideas about Irish food. They expect bland, stodgy, boiled and grey food. After all, one only has to take a look at the first two web sites I mentioned above to understand how and why people still have these pre-conceived ideas.

They travelled from Dallas, Texas, Shreveport Louisiana, Toms River, New Jersey and Williamsburg, Virginia. We all met in Dublin on a Monday morning and along with Dermot, our driver, made our way to Ballyvaughan, Co Clare.

Linnanes Lobster Bar We stopped to eat at Linnane’s Lobster Bar, New Quay on our way to Gregans Castle. The seafood platter was a treat for the senses. We squeezed our fresh lemons over the Kinvara organic smoked salmon, crab claws, clams, mussels and prawns.

Some feasted on John Dory. I started with a warm St Tola goats cheese salad and this was the beginning of a beautiful 8 day love affair between the cheese and me. I think I must have enjoyed it every way possible, short of bathing in it during my stay!

The following day, we were blessed with blue skies and warm temperatures, which was a huge bonus for walking the Burren, accompanied by Dr Brendan Dunford from the ‘Burren Life Programme’ “a pioneering agri-environmental programme which aims to conserve and support the heritage, environment and communities of the Burren”.

We foraged for wild sorrel and garlic, discovered a ‘Fulacht Fiadh’, an ancient cooking site dating back to the bronze age in Ireland, and learned about the sustainable farming project in the Burren region. After several hours ambling over rock walls, identifying rare flowers and photographing church ruins we made our way back to Gregans Castle for dinner.

Dinner is somewhat of a banal word. It was indeed meal time, but dinner is something you have when the kids come home from school. It’s the quick steak you grill outside, served with a salad and baked potato (You can tell where we cook here in Texas!) It relieves you of hunger. Gregans Castle on the other hand does not serve dinner. For me, I was fortunate enough to attend an edible art exhibit.

I do not have a terribly sweet tooth. I could take or leave desserts. I have yet to experience such a dessert as the one I enjoyed on the evening of Tuesday, April 22nd 2015. I am afraid of doing this dessert an injustice by not describing it accurately, but I will give it my best shot. Ribbons of shaved fennel and rhubarb surrounded shards of paper thin meringue, speckled with fennel seeds and lay upon a bed of silky smooth lemon curd. I yearn for this dessert.

Gregans Castle Dessert Afterwards, guests gathered in the cosy bar animately sharing their delightful experiences that evening. The food had come to life for them. Funny thing how food can taste like food! All thrilled at how their taste buds had been awakened from a long long sleep.

This was just the beginning of our culinary adventure. We had places to see, people to meet, seaweed to forage, gardens to visit and a cooking class to participate in with Neven Maguire. More on this next month.

Upon returning from Ireland, I received an email from Anne Sutton from Shreveport, Louisiana. She had been to Ireland with me. This says it all. This is when you know you introduced people to the Real Ireland, the Ireland I know well.

“Ever since I returned, my dreams have been of Ireland. A place I have only seen in pictures before now comes to life in my mind as I sleep.

I close my eyes and see stone walls, green pastures, blue skies, and fields of yellow rapeseed. Fishing boats bobbing in the water - appear like miniature toys against the hillside.

Gray rocks covered in seaweed as its delicate tendrils gently dance with the waves. Fairy forts in the midst of a ring of tall crooked trees.

Beyond there is The Burren - full of miles of craggy stone shaped by thousands of years of life.

Exquisite food visually complements unparalleled taste.

Fresh, delicate, perfectly seasoned, and made from wholesome ingredients, creating a gustatory explosion in my mouth - umami on steroids.

Crumbling castles, Celtic crosses, Christian churches as we travel across the country where my ancestors once lived.

I close my eyes once again, beckoning my dreams to take me back.”

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

Rachel Gaffney, the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares a story of wonderful time spent at MacNean House & Cookery School with a group of American visitors

MacNean House is a special place. Located in the village of Blacklion, Co Cavan, it is of course home to Ireland’s leading chef, TV personality and cookbook author, Neven Maguire.

I first met Neven in Atlanta, Georgia on April 3rd 2010. I liked him from the moment I met him. It is hard not to warm to Neven. I can see how he appeals to each and every generation. He has such a caring way about him.

Exactly 5 years later to the month, my group from Texas, Louisiana, New Jersey and Virginia descended upon MacNean House after spending the afternoon foraging for seaweed. We had worked up quite the appetite from all that lovely sea air.

That evening we had booked the Chefs Table. This was such a wonderful and fun evening. The menu consisted of Celeriac Mousse, Kelly’s Warm Ham Hock, Castletownbere Sea Scallop, Blood Orange Jelly, John Stone Aged Beef Fillet, Goats Cheese, Raspberry Sorbet and Chocolate Sensation Dome.

Neven prepared each course and explained the stories behind every producer both locally and nationally. The grand finale was the dessert, which was quite simply spectacular. I took a video of this signature dessert being presented to us. You can view it on my Facebook Page.

That evening we retired to the bar for after dinner drinks and listened to the music. I was going to have an early night but I know when I looked at my watch, I noticed it was after 2am. Ah well, all the best laid plans and all that!

The following day, after breakfast, which was also quite spectacular, we made our way to the cookery school. This was one of the highlights of the trip for everyone. The staff at MacNean House are simply wonderful. There is nothing too difficult for them. You really do feel as though you are a guest in their home.

The days leading up to this class were hugely helpful for my group, as they had learned all about, seaweed, Irish beef and dairy products, learned about the importance of sustainability, foraged for wild garlic and herbs, sampled elderflower cordial for the first time, taste tested Irish smoked salmon and rejoiced at discovering a ’99’.

This class with Neven brought all of the moving parts together as he was able to talk about the fabulous Irish products like Donegal Rapeseed Oil, Atlantic Sea Salt, Coole Swan Liqueur, poultry producers, farmers and fishermen.

After his demonstration, people were paired up and off they went with Neven and staff walking them through their dishes.

We all ate lunch together and, before we left for Dublin, we spent some time with Kevin Ashley. Kevin looks after the kitchen garden at MacNean House. We toured the poly tunnels where everything is recycled as much as possible. He had an ingenious use for drainpipes to grow his seedlings in.

Edible flowers were beginning to bloom, lettuces were springing up and it was clear to see that Kevin Ashley loved what he did. I wanted to drag my fingers through the potting soil which was bursting with nutrients but seeing as our driver was waiting to whisk us off to Dublin, I could not!

The group asked questions. In fact they asked many many questions. Their desire for knowledge about the food and ingredients of the island of Ireland knew no bounds.

They had and still have an insatiable desire to learn more. And that is why, I am now currently researching and planning my 2nd and 3rd culinary adventures to Ireland.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is also always on the lookout for the very best Irish places to recommend to American visitors. This month, she shares the details of a disappointing Irish hotel stay that she thinks the owners need to know about - and wonders about the best way to pass on constructive criticism.

I parked my car and checked in to my hotel for the evening. I was looking forward to visiting this property. I had not stayed here before but had viewed the website a few weeks prior to my arrival and the imagery looked promising. My check-in was quick and easy. Now, key in hand, I returned to my car to get my suitcase. I was travelling for almost 2 weeks and did not have a small bag.

Unfortunately, I had to haul my bag across the gravel drive myself as I could not find anyone to assist. The hotel did not have a lift. Now I dragged my bag up the staircase and was already feeling the strain. Multiple neck and shoulder surgeries, as the result of a bad car crash years ago, have left me much weaker.

I unlocked the hotel room door and walked inside. Immediately something was bothering me. You may find this a little strange but I could not figure out what it was that was bothering me. A beautiful old wardrobe flanked the large wall between the bedroom and the bathroom, old books were stacked on a shelf, heavy curtains hung from beautiful old sash windows and vintage lace was draped across the dressing table.

I placed my car keys on the dresser next to the Russell Hobbs kettle. The kettle with crusted limescale in the spout. This was it, this was what bothered me, the kettle, the packets of sugar, instant coffee and pots of creamer all sitting on a formica tray on this lovely old dresser.

My night’s sleep was, to say the least, fitful at best. The mattress was old, uncomfortable and lopsided. The sheets did not fit the mattress.

The next morning, I made my way down to the dining room for breakfast. The buffet was laid out. A selection of cheeses was on offer on a slate. They were not labelled so one had to guess their provenance. It was a warm summers day and the flies flitted from cheese to cheese.

A rustic pottery bowl was filled with fresh apples from the orchard. Plastic bottles of tomato ketchup and YR sauce were lined up like soldiers alongside the bowl of apples. Home made marmalade, raspberry jam, local honey and rhubarb jam filled pretty glass jars. One spoon was provided for all these condiments. This spoon was placed in a cup of murky water with pieces of marmalade peel floating to the top. Only the one spoon was provided. In this hotel you had to rinse the spoon.

If you wanted tea, then you took a tea bag from the box of tea and I do not mean from a wooden casket with individually wrapped bags but from the box you purchase in the supermarket. Antique furniture filled the dining room. Great ornate ceilings caught your eye. I could not bring myself to eat anything from the buffet. The flies had turned me off.

I ordered a pot of coffee and some of their ‘home made brown bread’. I could not spread the butter on the bread. It completely disintegrated as soon as the knife made contact. Ideal for making brown bread ice cream. I asked the waitress if I could have some more. She informed me that no-one else had had that problem. She huffed and said I would have to wait as they would have to defrost another loaf. I declined breakfast and set about looking for another location for my morning repast.

To the reader this may seem petty and insignificant. Perhaps one might think my complaints are petty. After all, they cannot just build a lift in an old building. Surely I am being picky about this kettle in the hotel room? And on and on and on.

I wear two hats when I stay and/or visit any property in Ireland. The first is one I will probably be buried in and that is the hat worn by one trained to work in hotels. Trained to spot the details, trained to sell and market hotels, trained to listen to the customer.

The second hat is the one worn by one who knows what their clients want and what they expect for their money and is always looking for places for them to stay. I tell them that if “I won’t stay there, then I won’t put you there”

If you were me, how would you handle this? Unfortunately, in this day and age people can be so critical and harsh and even like to publicly humiliate and shame. I would dearly like to suggest ways to change all these situations, which in essence would not cost any money. Sometimes, all you need is a fresh set of eyes. Someone who can see the things that you cannot. I ask you - what should I do?

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas tells us all about the Texas Emerald Ball that’s to be held next March - and some of the people who are involved with it…

My husband, Peter Smith, and I will be chairing the 4th annual Texas Emerald Ball, for the Texas Chapter of the American Ireland Fund on March 5th 2016. The Worldwide Ireland Funds was founded in 1976 by Sir Anthony O’Reilly and Ambassador Dan Rooney, and is now operating successfully in 12 countries.

“The Worldwide Ireland Funds are a philanthropic network that supports worthy causes in Ireland and around the world. Our mission is to be the largest network of friends of Ireland dedicated to supporting programs of peace and reconciliation, arts and culture, education and community development throughout the island of Ireland.”

Once the date and venue were secured, it was time to choose the theme. Here in Dallas, themes such as Mardi Gras, Monte Carlo, Hollywood, Masquerade and Broadway Musicals are a frequent occurrence.

For well established charities that have a well established and loyal following a theme brings a fun element, allows a wide berth for creative decorating, the printing of elaborate invitations and amazing party gifts.

Choosing the theme for the 4th annual Texas Emerald Ball, required far more than the decorative element. The theme needed to convey a message. “Come celebrate the many connections between Texas and Ireland, and make a few new ones..”

The historical links between Ireland and Texas go back as far as 1767 when Dublin born Hugh O’Connor was appointed acting Governor of the state of Texas for 3 years.

Irish people were actively involved in fighting for the liberation of this state, when 12 Irish born men died at the ‘Battle of the Alamo’ in March 1836.

The Irish in Texas are instrumental in the growth of this great state, like fine threads woven in a great tapestry. It is through these stories and connections that we can learn and grow together.

Texas Emerald Ball

While visiting Austin in September 2015, I had the honour of meeting with the Lieutenant Governor of Texas, Mr Dan Patrick. It was during this meeting that I became aware that his wife Jan, a retired school teacher, has Irish ancestry. It was also during this meeting that I asked Mr Patrick if he would be the Honoree Chair for the Emerald Ball - and it was during this meeting, much to my delight, that he agreed.

Mr Patrick is well aware of the presence in Texas now, of the IDA and our new Irish Consulate office in Austin. It just seemed to be the perfect fit to foster relationships between Ireland and Texas.

We can both benefit from increased trade relations, reciprocal education relationships, tourism can be developed further between both locations and hopefully, just hopefully, one of these days, a direct flight between Dallas Fort Worth, Austin and/or Houston can be established once and for all for the thousands who have to fly via New York, Chicago and London to get to Ireland, adding so much more time to our journeys and often making it prohibitive.

In the meantime, the Irish Diaspora continue to raise funds for the non profits in Ireland, always giving back as we never forget our roots. In a sense, when you emigrate or have to be transferred, your identity is very important to you. You want to continue to support your home and family. The people that educated you, nursed you and loved you.

Although we may have to suffer modern travel headaches, at least we can travel back to Ireland. People like Hugh O’Connor, Fr Michael Muldoon from Co Cavan (Born in 1780), John McMullen and James McGloin (founders of the San Patrizio Colony), Rosalie Bridget Hart (born in Wexford in 1825), James Power (an Irish immigrant land agent), Margaret Heffernan Borland (famous cattle rancher) and Thomas Power (born in Wexford in 1819) never had the luxury of returning to Ireland.

On March 5th 2016, we honor the many connections between Texas and Ireland. These great and brave souls who emigrated and died here will not be forgotten.

Seven Premium tables will be available on the night. These tables will be named after a product, brand and designer that continues with the Irish Texas theme and supports commerce and branding.

The Arista Table: www.aristawinery.com

The price for this table will be announced soon. Named after the famous Arista Winery in Russian River Valley; owned by the McWilliams family from Texas, whose family tree traces back to Co Longford. Their extraordinary Pinot Noir will be featured for all guests at this table and, as if this weren't enough, the table for 10 will be hosted by Vineyard Owners, Mark McWilliams and his wife, who will fly in for the gala evening. All guests will dine with them and be presented with commemorative 3-litre, hand engraved bottles of the much sought after Arista Pinot Noir.

The Jacqueline Quinn Table: jacquelinequinn.com

The Dublin born fashion designer, now living in New York, will host a table for 10. Guests dining with this designer can hear about her behind the scenes work with New Balance, Viviscal, her styling for the Grammy’s. Each guest will receive a couture design product, presented by Jacqueline Quinn. Hear about her new brand FAST, Fashion and Styling Trends and ladies will be sure to get the inside scoop and be ahead of the crowd.

A trip to Ireland will be auctioned off on the night for 4 people. This trip promises to highlight the luxury, history and culture that Ireland has to offer: unusual experiences, access to people you would not ordinarily have access to, fine dining , architectural visits, Irish gardens and medieval heritage.

If anyone is interested in partnering with us, please contact me directly. We want to highlight the products, places and people in both Texas and Ireland.

Oh and in case you are wondering, we do have some Texan items in the works y’all !

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - From Authentic to Real

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas explains how she’s expanding the travel side of her business and bringing more discerning US clients on culinary and cultural visits to Ireland

I was interviewed three times during the month of December for various publications. The questions made it perfectly clear to me that people were not quite sure what it is that I do. What is Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland? In short, it is an Irish lifestyle brand and it did not happen or evolve by accident, but rather by design.

The short version is that I was transferred with my husband from London to Dallas in February 1996. From Dallas to Chicago in 2000 and back to Dallas again in 2001. During that time, I noticed that people’s perception of Ireland was far removed from the Ireland I knew.

When I shopped in places like Nordstrom, Williams Sonoma, Sur La Table and Neiman Marcus there was a distinct lack of products, gifts, clothing, accessories and household goods from Ireland.

The media are in a frenzy in March looking for stories and almost every year the same material is reproduced. The dyeing of the Chicago river, the parades, the pub life, the beer sales and the donning of green beads. It was then that I thought we needed a brand over here. A brand that raised the profile of the products and ingredients of Ireland.

Now, 15 years later, this kernel of an idea has grown and evolved with many mistakes, failed partnerships, tireless nights worrying about money and making payroll (I had a bakery business in the early years making Irish Butter Shortbreads) travelling around the United States, tradeshows, cooking demos, filming and writing.

To say I would not be where I am now without all of the aforementioned is an understatement. It had to happen. My company name changed from Rachel Gaffney’s Authentic Irish Goods to Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland in 2010. This change came about as I noticed that people were reacting and relating to one very specific word, authentic, in a way that I had not expected.

Authentic to most people meant the old Ireland, dancing at the crossroads, peat fires, lace, traditional music, horse and cart and the perception that we only ate corned beef and cabbage.

And so, I changed it to real. What happened in 1940 was real, what is happening in 2016 is real and what happens in the future is real. This simple change in verbiage then opened up the floodgates of my imagination to create and expand my brand the way I wanted to. RGRI is made up of 5 categories.

• Food & Drink
• Fashion & Accessories
• Media & Communications
• Household Goods
• Travel, Tourism & Culture

I began the travel side of my business in 2013. The first trip was for 4 couples for 12 days. I worked on every detail of their trip and as a result those same people are returning in April 2016.

My client base is expanding rapidly and it is all referral business.

I am heavily focused on growing and expanding the travel side of my business in 2016. To do this, I am looking for partners to collaborate with. My clients trust me to create a unique trip for them so, in return, I have to trust where I am sending them. It is for this reason that I am using the same people in Ireland at the moment. I tell my clients this “If I won’t stay there then I won’t put you there”

My clientele do not want to book their own trips, they do not want to navigate the internet to do research, they want me to suggest places, restaurants, experiences, drivers, hotels, castles and much much more.

When I visit a place in Ireland I spend quite a bit of time taking in all the detail. For example, I visited Carlingford Lough in July 2015. I walked around Carlingford town with Frances from the tourism office for the entire day. I wanted to see and hear everything.

Walked around churches, visited guest houses, Carlingford Design Studio, had lunch in a local pub, wandered into shops and stumbled upon one antique shop in particular where I took numerous photographs, posted them on Instagram and within minutes had people back in the States asking about prices and shipping. This is when I realised that antiquing is big big business in Texas and ladies will want to go scour the country for products to take back to their homes and holiday homes in Oklahoma, Arkansas and Texas.

People from here want to discover people and places off the beaten track. They want to purchase property in Ireland, they want to shop in Ireland and they really want to connect.

I have just wrapped up two more trips for clients and currently planning another group culinary and shopping trip for 12 people in September 2016. In the meantime, I plan on reading everything I can, listening to anyone I can and visiting anywhere I possibly can over the next 12 months.

Any suggestions would be welcomed. Meanwhile, I wish everyone a very happy and prosperous 2016.
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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas - Experiencing Ireland

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas finds that some of her wealthy clients understand better than most the value of rural Ireland, and the appeal of a farmhouse holiday.

In the last few weeks I have been working with some new clients who are going to Ireland for 2 weeks. A family of 7. Parents, grandparents and grandchildren.

After an hour or so chatting with one of the ladies it became evident that what they really want is to experience Ireland. They do not want to merely visit Ireland.

We sat at a bistro table outside a Dallas coffee shop, armed with freshly brewed coffee, my trusted and well worn map of Ireland (scribbled on and sellotaped) and my clients' newly purchased guide to Ireland. I do of course have plenty of notes, brochures, books etc but I really don't need any of these at this stage as I am really trying to ascertain who they are, and where I think will work for them.

History was and is very important to them. Each time I sit with clients, history and culture top their lists, but what I have discovered is that one person's love and desire to learn about the aforementioned topics are not the same as the next.

There are, of course varying degrees and levels of interest. Some are content to drive by somewhere like Malahide Castle for example, stopping to snap a photograph, and others will want to research the history prior to visiting and then spending hours at the location once there.

This family have asked to stay in locations that will help teach their children about life in Ireland today and in the past. They do not want to stay in any standard hotels or chain properties.

In fact they have specifically requested to stay at Farmhouse properties, Country House properties and guest houses.

I realised that this was indeed the first time that I have been asked for farmhouse properties. The only time I have ever visited farms was perhaps as a child visiting my aunt’s farm outside Clonakility, Co Cork.

These experiences matter a lot to people. They want to learn and they want to experience life in Ireland in a way that I know I took for granted, through no fault of my own.

They want to learn about our agriculture and our food systems. These people have the money and the means to stay in 5 star properties but they do not want this. They have explicitly told me they want local people looking after them and want local people to guide them.

I am now in search of farmhouse experiences and think perhaps I may need to visit a few myself when I return to visit Ireland in June.

I would be very grateful if anyone could share their suggestions or experiences with me please.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

An Illustrated History of the Phoenix Park, Landscape and Management to 1880

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is looking for people with particular interests - drivers, guides and authors, who can introduce American visitors to people in Ireland who share their interests

As my business expands with more and more people from Texas, Arkansas and Oklahoma contacting me to organise their trips to Ireland, I now have another need and therefore have some much needed research to do when I go to Ireland for a month this summer.

That need is for drivers, guides and authors, especially people who have a deep love of history and their community. One might be tempted to think that finding these people would be easy, with so many websites available nowadays and personal recommendations, but I have learned that is not the case at all. In this age social media, websites and global accessibility, I still prefer to hire people based on meeting them in the flesh.

Last year, I was looking for a driver for clients from Texas. One of their specific requests was to have a driver who was discreet. The driver I normally use was unavailable so I reached out to a few people and asked for recommendations.

I called and spoke to quite a few people around Ireland. One driver proceeded to tell me who he has driven around the country and where. This was immediately a red flag. He did not feel the need to tell me about his experience or anything about himself but preferred to share his client list with me instead.

What happens when your client is an avid collector of wools and yarns? I have a client who travels to places like Uruguay, Patagonia and Northern Tajikistan to purchase hand spun and dyed yarns. She would like to learn about Irish wool and meet the small crafters and spinners.

Another client has a love of Irish history and is especially interested in the 17th Century. The list of interests and hobbies never cease to amaze me. This is why I need a rolodex of resources sitting on my desk, filled with drivers, guides, authors and people who love what they do and even more importantly I need the people who specialise in one subject, topic and interest. I am always watching and listening for such contacts and often I find them in the most unusual ways.

As some of you may recall, I chaired the Texas Emerald Ball on March 5th for the American Ireland Fund, a charity that raises money for charities around the island of Ireland. People travelled from around the United States and others came from England and Ireland to attend this very fashionable gala. It was on this night that I met Aidan McCullen. Aidan, former Irish rugby player, capped for Ireland and former back for Leinster is now Head of Innovation and Partnership for RTE.

Whilst we were having lunch the following day we were talking about our backgrounds and families in Ireland, (as most Irish people do!) It was then that I learned about his father, Dr John McCullen.

Dr McCullen is now retired but was chief superintendent with the Office of Public Works and was responsible for the management of Phoenix Park. He is the authour of “An Illustrated History of the Phoenix Park, Landscape and Management to 1880”, commissioned by the Office of Public Works (pictured top right).

The Phoenix Park was established in 1662 so it was a perfect fit for my client, whose interest is 17th century Ireland. Who better to introduce the park to my clients than Dr McCullen? And so he did.

I have taken people foraging for seaweed with Dr Prannie Rhatigan, author of “Irish Seaweed Kitchen”, they have cooked with Neven Maguire, dined and met with Clodagh McKenna and all receive a copy of that person’s book.

I like to find people who have published books so my clients can receive a copy before their visit to Ireland. I am always looking and always open to suggestions. Simply email me Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas explains why changing holiday patterns for Americans will be good news for Irish tourism

I can tell the season for travel has begun as I am now fielding calls and emails on a regular basis about Ireland. People have a general idea about travel dates, but beyond that, they do not know what they want. This has grown through word of mouth and each and every person has simply requested that I design their itinerary for them.

Only today, I received a phone call from Florida. The lady told me she and her husband wanted to go next year with another couple from Atlanta. They have not travelled to Ireland before and do not have any Irish ancestry. Last year they spent 2 weeks in China.

Last month they were at a friend’s house for dinner in Virginia and the lady was telling them about her experience on the culinary tour I put together in 2015. It was those two words that caught their attention: Ireland and culinary in the same sentence.

By now, anyone who reads my columns may be getting tired of hearing me repeating this, that people are incredulous when it comes to hearing about Ireland and the incredible food. But perhaps Ireland may be one of the last few places on earth with sustainable food systems. I sincerely hope this doesn’t change.

People are requesting country house properties, experiences and guides yet again. (Last month I wrote about my search for authors and guides).

Budget is never discussed initially. Of course, after a period of time, as we delve into the trip we do indeed discuss this but what I am finding is that if the client likes the property and experience offered, then they are willing to pay for it. Quality is what they are looking for. This is a very good sign as they are looking for drivers, experiences, good restaurants, nice hotels and shopping experiences.

When I was living in Ireland and England, I had 21 days of holiday per year and my husband had 26 days. This enabled us, of course, to take 2 week holidays and many more breaks throughout the year. Americans do not get the same amount of vacation days at work. It is certainly very unusual to see someone go for a 2 week vacation unless they were retired, or senior enough to do so. This is why you see Americans trying to visit the entire country in a week.

Now, I am finding this pattern is changing with my clients, and the minimum stay is 8 nights in Ireland - and many are going for 14 nights with extended family. This is a very promising sign and travel seems to be on the rise, or at least it does in my neck of the woods ! Long may this trend continue.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

Recently I was introduced to a new and thrilling world, one that I would never have imagined I would enjoy quite as much as I did - and I have a Texan by the name of Doug Deason to thank for this. Although a native of Arkansas, he now resides in Dallas, Texas.

He began flyfishing at the age of ten and has fished all over the world. This was his first time fishing in Ireland and it was their first time visiting Ireland. They, being father and daughter, as Regan, his 18 year old daughter, accompanied him. Regan too had fished a little over the years and here I was about to attempt fishing for my first time with this experienced group. The only fish I had ever handled was at the fishmongers.

County Cavan, is known as the ‘Lake County’ and that’s fitting as it is said there is a lake for every day of the year with 365 lakes. However I discovered while staying at the Radisson Blu Farnham Estate (see below right) that there are in fact closer to 500 lakes in Cavan. George, who works there, had spent years with the department of forestry and was quite the historian.

With so many lakes to choose from, the challenge was where to start and more importantly where does a girl like me take an avid and proficient fisherman? The answer was to find people who know people and you are good to go.

My two forces of nature came in the form of Catherine Fox and Joanne Hayes, who introduced me to Alan and Audrey Kells from Castlehamilton which is a destination unto itself so you should check their web site out for further information. Our guide, Bernard Engle, was arranged through them.

At 9.30am Bernard arrived at Farnham Estate, to take us fishing on the River Annalee. The drive was a short and scenic 20 or 30 minutes to our spot on the river. Once there it was time to don our waders and pull up our britches. I wear a size 5 shoe but the only remaining waders were a size 10, close enough!

Doug took one look at me in my waders and reached in to his backpack and pulled out some old belt and tied it around my waist. I asked why he was doing this when these pants were almost up to my neck. Do you remember that old tv show MacGyver? He was a resourceful agent who could make a bomb out of an old radio! Well, this is who sprung to mind when Doug suggested I would know all too quickly why I needed this belt if I fell in.

As we wandered along the road, sauntering past the 300 year old Ballyhaise Agricultural College (right), my first mistake was pointed out to me. I was carrying the rod incorrectly. We made our way through brambles, raising our arms in the air as we strode through a sea of nettles and ambled precariously down the river bank as it had been raining furiously for days and the banks were muddy and slippery.

The River Annalee was spectacular. She had risen approximately 6 inches due to the heavy rainfall. The current was strong and we followed Bernard, albeit precariously initially until he brought us to a steady spot in the river. I stood there not wanting to move. Truth be told, I was perfectly happy to stay there and not budge at all as wearing waders that were too big for me presented enough of a challenge, let alone trying to wade through a gushing current. But alas I had to move.

Bernard wandered over to the far side of the river with Doug. Regan and I waited. He would return to us, as soon as he had set up camp for the seasoned fisherman.

Technically, I had no idea what I was watching. It’s like watching Jordan Spieth drive the ball down the fairway, you are not quite sure what he is doing to make it seem so effortless but you know there are separate motions and mechanics involved in producing one fluid swing.

Watching these two calmly and quietly flick their wrists back and forth was so calming. And this is where everything changed for me in an instant. Now, everything was quiet and calm. The sound of the water gushing by me from under the stone bridge, the strength and concentration it took to stand with legs slightly apart so as to balance and not fall from the rushing current required focus and concentration and this was only the beginning.

I watched as they cast back and forth rhythmically, envying the ease and simplicity of each movement, knowing that it was not as easy as it looked. Soon I would be getting my first lesson and I immediately remembered that very first golf lesson all those years ago when you are given so many commands and you try to put them all together to make one swing. Not easy. It takes time. It takes years of practice, experience and muscle memory before it becomes one motion. I wondered if I was going to regret this. After all, it was enough battling with a current let alone taking on a new set of instructions where the margin for error was pretty great.

Bernard moved effortlessly through the river and made his way to Regan. You could tell that this was not her first time either. She moved gracefully and silently. He did not have to show her much at all, but to point out the best and safest spots to stand.

Then it was my turn. He showed me how to cast. How to move my arm and wrist and where to cast. I did this over and over again, simply trying to get a feel for the river and get used to this fishing rod in my hand.

Then something happened. It was about thirty minutes in to this activity that I noticed what was occurring. My mind was completely and utterly focused on this task at hand and everything else on my mind simply vanished. It was the mental respite I needed. As women, and especially as mothers and wives, we tend to be planning and thinking about what we have to do next, often juggling many thoughts and emotions simultaneously.

Now, out here on the River Annalee, where the air was crisp and clean, this had all quite simply disappeared. It was now all about the rhythm and the sound of the water. I live in a city where ladies play a lot of tennis, including myself. Now I began to wonder is this the sport that women should be doing. Away from it all, at one with nature and most importantly giving you the opportunity to have a free and clear mind.

I glanced over at Doug and noticed he had caught a trout. When I glanced back again a few moments later he had caught another. He unhooked them and released them like it was no big deal. Like it was just so easy. Was there indeed skill required to catch a fish ? Surely if I just stood there, I too could catch a fish? It really isn’t that simple.

As time drew by I learned a little bit more and then a little bit more and like all kinaesthetic learners I started to piece together the advice given to me by Bernard with the instruction and signals the river was giving to me. I stopped trying so hard. I sincerely stopped trying to catch a fish and concentrated on the flow of the river, feeling the tug at times from weeds below on my hook.

Once cast, I followed that fly with my eyes and, when it was time to repeat, I re cast further towards the river bank. Bernard explained that trout are a little like us. They really don’t want to have to work so hard in the current so they tend to move away from it and swim closer to the riverbank, where the water is not as rough. It was then that I caught my first fish. I knelt down and Bernard helped me unhook this brown trout. I asked if he weighed more than 2 or 3lb. “No” was the reply. “Maybe 1lb?” I asked. Again, the answer was no. “But close to 1lb” he said!

By now we had worked up quite the appetite and it was time to enjoy our picnic lunch. We waded upstream. Doug was perched on the river bank. I was proud as punch to have caught a fish. I asked him how many he had caught. He had lost count after 20!

I moved to step backwards and with what seemed like one swift movement the current knocked me over on my derriere ! My feet were above water but the rest of me had not escaped. So this was why Doug aka MacGyver had tied the belt around my waist. I floated downstream and all I heard was laughter and this South African accent yell… “Doug, I won the bet” I guess Doug did know what he was doing after all, but please don’t tell him I said that !

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas reminds us that businesss is business and beautiful properties are not enough - people will vote with their feet if hotels don’t provide the best possible service as well

The sun was shining in Dublin. The white linen tablecloth was starched and, coupled with the freshly cut flowers and streaming sunlight, the table was perfect. And, that is where the perfection ended.

There were three of us seated for breakfast. A waitress walked to the table and handed us a menu. She did not utter a word, merely handed us the menu and walked away. Two waiting staff stood like soldiers surveying the bright and cheery drawing room, but sadly their demeanor did not match the atmosphere of the room.

When the waitress returned to the table one of our guests expressed a desire for a fresh fruit smoothie and asked what his choices might be. The first thing out of her mouth was “ Sir, you will have to pay extra for these, as they are not included with your breakfast “ Now we had at least established she was able to speak. He replied “ Right, ok, but what are my choices?”

The exchange that followed can only be described as embarrassing. Embarrassing to her parents (and yes, I blame parents for not raising children with manners) embarrassing to herself and probably more importantly it was embarrassing for the hotel, as it would be these experiences that decided whether or not he would return to this property.

I ordered a coffee and the third member of our party asked for some hot chocolate as, since arriving in Ireland, she had become rather partial to all Irish milk and was ordering creamy drinks wherever we went. I am not going to go into the conversation verbatim but suffice to say it was infuriating.

The feeling that began to arise from all of us was one of frustration. Just the simple task of ordering a beverage was laborious to say the least. I could tell that my travel companion was getting uneasy and I immediately tried to diffuse it by being the anodyne here. She had an air or indifference about her, as though we were inconveniencing her in some way.

I have not written about this topic, but after six weeks this summer travelling around Ireland and staying in many different types of properties, I felt it might be time to address it. There seems to be a pattern here, or at least there certainly was for me.

The properties I experienced this lack of service, I am very sorry to say were what are generally considered to be the best, the four and five star properties, the big box properties, the chains and so on. Hopefully you understand where I am coming from.

This topic is very probably going to upset a lot of people and I am bracing myself for some negative tweets and emails just like the ones I received before when I did not name or single out a property I had a difficulty with. In this article I am aiming to address the age old topic of service and hospitality.

If housekeeping staff spend endless hours cleaning and tending to every detail in your room, freshening your towels and turning down your freshly made beds in the evening, if the grounds keepers toil in the rain and cold ensuring the lawns are mowed and the roses are pruned, the kitchen staff labour in the heat, peeling and chopping, frying and boiling, artistically creating dishes and introducing us to local and sustainable ingredients, then I have to ask this one very important question: “ What is their time and energy worth if a guest leaves your hotel, remembering that getting a smoothie was so difficult, that someone threw your bill on the table, or made you feel that you were inconveniencing them, that staff could not be bothered to greet you, and that the bar tenders were so utterly cold? ” (The latter is probably another topic, to address separately.)

I could list each and every place where I, and many of my clients, have experienced this lack of service. I am not going to do this. Again, as I said in a previous article, I am not an hotel critic, nor am I in the business of shaming people publicly.There are many people out there who make it their business to do this, and even seem enjoy it, but I will leave itto them.

Rather, what I would like to do is to open a constructive dialogue about service in hotels. Should we blame that individual? Should we blame their manager? Should we blame the general manager? In my opinion, probably all of the above but, more importantly, what is happening and why is this happening?

How is it that I can travel to certain parts of the country and the service in a small country house, guest house, castle or guest house can be exceptional and then travel to other parts and the service, especially in what is seen as the upper end of the market, is appalling. This is not exclusive to Dublin. I experienced the same disappointments in other areas.

I spent many years training and working in the hotel industry in Ireland and England, so I know only all too well about the long and unsociable hours, the low pay - and the very difficult guests too. Yet, that cannot and should not be an excuse.

While I was in Ireland people said to me that Irish people are not going in to the service industry any more and these jobs are all taken by Eastern Europeans. Let me set the record straight here, the people I found to be exceptionally rude and arrogant were not Eastern European but Irish, so let’s leave nationality out of this.

I should imagine that there will be people reading this article who know exactly what I am talking about. Perhaps you too had a similar experience. Staff who seem to have a chip upon their shoulder, who seem worn and out and ragged, generally uncaring or rude. It seems that demarcation is alive and well.

When I asked one lady for a coffee in a small hotel bar one morning, she said I needed to go to another part of the hotel to get the coffee as she was only serving in the bar. I was the only customer in the bar! This, I might add, was a luxury resort.

When I walked outside and found someone in the lobby I asked if they could help and she said “There should be someone in the bar to help you”. She even went as far as to escort me in there to prove to me there was someone working in there. I turned to her and said, “I beg your pardon, but did you not believe me?” WRONG, WRONG, WRONG…. what they should have done or said was so simple: “Absolutely, what kind of coffee would you like and we will bring it to you.”

Why is that during all my years working in the bar, working at reception, working in reservations departments and reception, and later in sales and marketing, that I would always say “Absolutely, what kind of coffee would you like, and we will bring it to you” even when it was not my job?

The reason quite simply was that it WAS my job. It may not have been my job to abandon my current task and go grind the beans, boil the water, lay the tray and pour the cream but it absolutely was my job to find someone who could do this, someone who did work in room service or in the kitchen or even in the worst case scenario (which I have done many a time) make it myself. After all, what was the worst that could have happened to me? I was hardly going to be fired for helping a guest.

I spent many a year working and training in the London Tara Hotel, which was owned and operated in the 1980’s by Aer Lingus and managed by Eoin Dillon. Service and quality always did and always does come from the top down.

Who is monitoring our service people? Are we training them and leaving them simply to their own devices? Are we sending in people casually to observe and follow up with further training and pointing out how they can handle things differently? I do not know the answers to these questions. What I can share with you is this. During my stays at these properties, I did ask to speak to the managers. I felt as if I could that because I was a paying guest. I have to wonder if all of these free stays for reviewers, bloggers and social media gurus are contributing to this in some way.

Consider this if you will. You are a blogger and/or travel writer, you have an Instagram and Twitter account and you have thousands of ‘followers’ so you get a complimentary stay at a beautiful property. They spoil you with a day at their spa, they know you are staying so you get a great room with a wonderful view and your meal is included. Now consider this, you experience what I experienced with the wait staff and/or the bar staff, do you write about this negative experience and do you ask to speak to the general manager.

If there is a blogger/travel writer out there, who can honestly say they have hand on heart received a complimentary stay and complained or written about the poor service then I tip my hat to you. I commend you for your bravery, for it is indeed a difficult thing to bite the hand that feeds you. How does one complain about something when it was free?

My clients over here in the United States are very good at giving me their feedback and there is a pattern with their experiences also. They have told me about the poor service in the very same places where I have experienced it too.

I think what bothers me most is that when I, or my clients, have addressed this with a manager, they often seem to get defensive. For anyone in the hotel industry who is reading this, let me give you an actual a monetary example. People will and do vote with their feet. I did.

Whilst I was in Ireland, I received a call from Dallas. It was from the CFO of a technology company. They were planning an executive board meeting for 9 people and needed an hotel for a weekend.

I know from experience, that any property would like this piece of business. Why? Because they needed everything from suites, all meals, board rooms, afternoon coffees and teas, bar in the evening, room hire, projectors etc. In other words they were spending substantial money in that hotel.

Well that hotel where we started with our embarrassing breakfast experience lost the business, and it was worth €17k. I had to move it somewhere else simply because of a junior member of staff who was not listening to my requirements and was not following up with proper communication, despite the fact that I was staying in that property.

I am now charged with finding somewhere for this company again next year as they eventually enjoyed their stay in Ireland so much, but I will and do point out to my clients that, although some properties look really lovely, they should choose the places where I know they will get great service.

Have you experienced any of the above and if so I would love to know how we can open the dialogue in a constructive way. After all, getting things right is a win win for all of us.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas describes what can happen over lunch with five hundred ladies - in a phone- and social media-free zone.

I was a guest at a luncheon here in Dallas this summer. Close to five hundred ladies filled the room. Signs of a bygone era were everywhere. The ladies wore Chanel and St John knit suits. Their handbags hung from their arms and the air was filled with scents of sandalwood and Chanel No 5 perfume. It was very comforting. Almost as though I were back in the company of my grandmother and her friends.

Phones were not permitted at all in this venue. No phone calls to be taken or made, even in the foyer. Strictly no photographs ever. There isn’t any forgiveness at all for making this error. It was refreshing.

For, when we sat to lunch, people sat and spoke to each other intently. No one was photographing their food to post on Instagram, in fact no one there even knew what social media was. But they certainly knew how to be genuinely social.

During this lunch, it was obvious that my nationality was a novelty at my table. Ladies shared their stories of Irish ancestry and their memories of visits to Ireland in the 1970’s. Then this table of ladies talked of fashion and more astonishingly of their love of Irish fashion designer, Sybil Connolly.

In fact I learned that she had visited Dallas and spent time with this lovely group of ladies. I was delighted, as these ladies did not know until then that I am a huge fan of Sybil Connolly. She was a true Renaissance woman. It was Sybil Connolly who first pleated Irish linen and First Lady, Jackie Kennedy, chose one of her linen outfits for her 1970 White House portrait.

I have been collecting memorabilia for years now. I have Vogue sewing patterns, old adverts from newspapers in the 1960’s and pieces of her Merrion collection for Tiffany’s. This was quite the lunch for me, as I was sitting with ladies who had spent time with this Irish fashion icon and shared stories with me that a cell phone photo could never capture.

It was during this lunch that I suggested these ladies might revisit Ireland as a group. To revisit the places they had visited in the 1970’s and to rediscover some new places. The planning began soon afterwards. And it still continues.

The group has now become a lot bigger and the trip will not happen until 2018. These ladies also belong to a garden club here in Dallas. Each year they visit a different state and tour the gardens and homes of that state so I have called this trip The Secret and Not So Secret Gardens of Ireland. It will include fashion, gardens and Irish homes.

My research has begun with revisiting the itineraries of the 1970’s trips and adding new places. I am paying close attention to the gardens of Ireland and, although we may know the iconic gardens, I want to take these ladies to visit some secret gems.

On a visit to Ireland a year ago, I was in Co Louth and visited a home with a friend of mine. This home sprung to mind immediately once I started the planning of this trip. The old lawn tennis court remains in all its splendour. At the end of the garden was a wall with a door. While clearing this part of the garden, the owners discovered a Victorian path that had been covered for years with brambles. I truly felt like I was a character in the novel the ‘Secret Garden’

Attending this luncheon was such a wonderful experience. We were truly connecting. Somehow we all, all five hundred of us, managed to survive without posting what we ate on Instagram or posting who we knew and what they wore on Facebook. I am a social media user but I love to attend events where there aren’t any phones allowed. I wonder what stories could be told if there were more like this.

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Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is on a mission to share the story of Irish food at a prestigious event in Dallas next month - and get everyone to ‘Meet the Ingredients’

Story telling is something we Irish do very well, whether it be accurate or embellished, we simply tell great stories. The story of the Irish food scene is one that can be told in so many different ways, through various mediums of photography, videography, tv and radio, but by far, the most impactful way of telling the story is by introducing the people to the ingredients in person.To touch, feel and to taste the bounties of the land and sea, forming a relationship with them. After all, food nourishes the soul and mind as well as the body.

To introduce people here in Dallas, Texas to these, I need to share the story of Irish food. I use the word food for many reasons. If I only use the word culinary, it frightens some, they perceive it to be only about chefs and high end restaurants as opposed to the story of producers, markets, fishermen, sea weed foragers, farmers, grocers, pub landlords and home cooks.

March 5th will be the date for me to tell my story of Ireland and her ingredients at a Dame Good Party, hosted and organised by an organisation I am tremendously proud to be a member of, Les Dames d’Escoffier.

Disclaimer: Word for word from the LDEI website for accuracy

Our Mission
Les Dames d’Escoffier International is a philanthropic organization of women leaders in the fields of food, fine beverage and hospitality. The by-invitation membership, composed of over 2,200 members in 37 chapters in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom and Mexico, is highly diversified and reflects the multifaceted fields of contemporary gastronomy and hospitality.

Our Vision
LDEI is an international organization of women leaders who create a supportive culture in their communities to achieve excellence in the food, fine beverage and hospitality fields.
www.ldei.org

On this evening, Sunday 5th March 2017, we will feature approximately 35 food and beverage stations from some of North Texas’ top female chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers, farmers, artisanal cheese and spirit makers, pastry chefs and mixologists. This year, we will feature Women in Wine with women wine makers and winery owners from some of America’s top brands.

Since its inception, LDEI has donated over $9million to women furthering their education and training through scholarships and endowments. The cultural thread that is woven throughout this organization is simply quite phenomenal.

Only a few years ago I worked with Tina Wasserman, author of ‘Entree to Judaism’ a culinary exploration of the Jewish Diaspora. http://cookingandmore.com/ We hosted an evening for people to come and learn about this and Tina taught us all how to bake Challah, a bread made from dough enriched with eggs.

What made this evening special was the story telling. Tina shared the stories of the Jews and the orange trade, the Jewish traders on the spice route, and the lasting memory I have is when she shared the story of the acclaimed ‘Aubergine’ or ‘Eggplant’ as it is called over here.

Long associated with Italian cooking, I did not know that it was used by the Jewish people before it was passed on to the Italians. This evening at Tina’s home was a wonderful experience. By no means did we all know each other, but we left with new memories and friends.

Perhaps now, even more so than ever, can the work of LDEI be more beneficial and healing than any other time I can recall living here in the United States of America. A country, stitched together by threads from every culture and each bringing with it, it’s own stories of food, recipes and traditions. Surely this is the anodyne we all need and seek.

Apple Raisin Sultana Bread

On March 5th, I hope to introduce Irish food and culture. The humble Irish Soda bread will be reinvented in so many new ways. I have worked on new recipe variations and it is something I can make quickly and easily to feed the masses. Tomato, red onion and Achill Island Sea Salt loaves, apple, raisin & sultana loaves - all served with lashings of Irish butter from Kerrygold - along with Cashel Blue cheese grapes, Dubliner Irish Cheddar will all be proudly and prominently featured.

Although somewhat humble, these ingredients - some of which are familiar to American shoppers and easy to find here, while others like Achill Island Sea Salt (photo above right), the 2014 winner of a prestigious Euro-Toques Food Award, are waiting to be discovered - all lend themselves to a great story.

The stories of Irish farming and why our butter is yellow rather than the ubiquitous white butter over here. The benefits of great sea salt and the island life on Achill. Perhaps it will make you smile, want to purchase it (which, in my experience they always do) or make you want to visit and re-connect.

But, even more importantly on this evening, perhaps, as you stop by my little piece of Ireland on the night of Sunday, March 5th, you will be part of a far greater thing, you will now be one of those threads that weave together the United States of America and not the divided states of America.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas highlights the challenges that face passengers flying to Ireland from Dallas - and, while lauding Shannon for its efficiency and convenience, also recalls the romance of the early days of flight in the west of Ireland

Although I do not book flights for my clients, they ask me which airline I prefer to fly to Ireland with, which route is the most efficient from Texas and last but by no means least, should they fly in to Dublin or Shannon airports?

The first question is an easy one. With Dallas Fort Worth International airport being the hub for American Airlines, they are my preferred carrier. As for efficiency, sadly, we still do not have a direct flight from Texas to Ireland.

We Texans have to fly either to Chicago, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, or Charlotte, North Carolina. This adds half a day to our journey and can be a deterrent for people who would otherwise like to visit Ireland.

I understand that airlines are risk averse and that setting up a new route is not that easy, but consider these figures. The population of New York State is 19.7 million and the population of Texas is 26.9 million and yet we do not have one direct flight from the Lone Star state to the island of Ireland. Not to mention, Dallas Fort Worth, Austin Bergstrom International and George Bush Intercontinental airports provide service to the people of the four contiguous states, namely New Mexico, Oklahoma, Arkansas and Louisiana. That’s another 13.5 million people. Taking our total to 40.4 million people. And yet, we still do not have a direct flight to Ireland. Not even to the gateway of the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ being marketed so heavily in the United States.

And now to the question, Dublin or Shannon airport? The answer to this question is not as straightforward as it may seem. If it is their first visit to Ireland and they really want to spend a couple of days in Dublin, then of course fly in and out of Dublin.

U.S travellers do not get as many vacation days per annum as Europeans. They tend to fly to Ireland for a week. If you have to spend 2 days out of your 7 on travel alone then the 5 days remaining have to be crafted carefully, hence people do these drive by tours of Ireland, returning back to the United States now in need of a rest or a vacation to Cozumel to relax!

If they are making a return trip to Ireland, and have visited Dublin, then without hesitation I recommend they use Shannon Airport. The efficiency at this airport will save you valuable hours when those vital hours count on your first day in Ireland.

There is a nostalgia and mystique associated with Shannon Airport and indeed the west of Ireland, that lives in the hearts and minds of many, including my own. I remember all too well back to the 1970’s when my aunt, uncle and cousins would return to Ireland from New York for the summer months.

The excitement always began at the airport. Shannon airport. Watching the glamorous cabin crews walking through the halls in immaculate uniforms, perfectly coiffed hair and carrying matching leather luggage. Those halls at Shannon airport have seen many a character come through.

Transatlantic aviation in the Shannon Estuary first began in Foynes. In 1935, Lough Derg and Lough Corrib were among many locations considered as bases for seaplanes. On the 11th July 1939, a Belgian airliner was the first passenger aircraft to land at Rineanna. The crew and eight passengers then drove to Foynes where they boarded Pan American’s ‘Yankee Clipper’ to the United States. It was in October 1945 that the first scheduled flight from the United States landed in Shannon Airport.

The decades that followed are examples of innovation in times of adversity. World War II delayed the development of the new Shannon Airport. Later, to ensure the very best, catering services were established at both Foynes and Shannon.

This year, sees the 75th birthday of the famous ‘Irish Coffee’ created by Chef Joe Sheridan. He felt the weary passengers needed some hot food and drink. Rich cream, strong coffee, sugar cubes and smooth Irish Whiskey are the only ingredients. When one passenger tried it he asked what kind of coffee it was, ‘Brazilian perhaps’? ‘No, Irish Coffee’ was the reply.

Then in the early 1950’s Stan Delaplane, a journalist from the San Francisco Chronicle tasted this beverage. He took this recipe back to the Buena Vista Bar on Fisherman’s Wharf, and this began the phenomena of the success of Irish Coffee throughout the USA.

In 1947, it became the first Customs Free Airport in the World. It began with a simple kiosk. We are now so accustomed to seeing these Duty Free facilities globally, that we sometimes forget it’s humble origins were here at this airport.

In the 1970’s, as technology was making strides, it was this same technology that threatened the airport. As these aircraft were being built to travel from the Americas into Europe without stopovers, would Shannon become obsolete?

Back went the thinking caps and they soon developed a programme to attract technical landings by U.S supplemental and charter airlines. Thus Shannon airport survived a very tough time in the 1970’s.

In the late 1970’s, Aer Rianta, approached the U.S Federal Authorities to establish U.S pre clearance for passengers. A trial basis was set up in 1986 and a permanent facility was opened in 1988. This was the first of its kind in Europe.

In March 2010 Shannon Airport became the first airport in the world outside the USA to have pre clearance for private aircraft. This is why my clients landed their own plane in July 2016 in Shannon Airport. It was incredible efficient and they reported back to me that they were treated like royalty. They will return.

In recent years, traffic figures have been increasing. In 2015, Shannon has continued to see growth and handled 1.71 million passengers. The capacity of this airport is for 4.5 million. It can certainly provide for those of us travelling from the Lone Star State and the four contiguous states.

The Irish community has grown here in Dallas Fort Worth, Austin and Houston with branches of the Irish Network being established in each city. I have agreed to launch the DFW chapter in a year. I know many people from Dublin, but there is an abundance of people from Tralee, Killarney, Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Tipperary and Galway, who like myself would love to be able to fly directly to Shannon airport.

One person cannot do this alone nor can two or three people but if enough voices are heard and we can find those innovators who have taken note of adversity, changing times and needs at Shannon Airport, then I don’t see why we can’t get a flight from Dallas Fort Worth to Shannon.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
http://www.hulu.com/the-irish-kitchen-with-rachel-gaffney

Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas tells us about the ‘Irish Afternoon Tea in Dallas’ that she recently hosted

Last December I hosted a morning coffee for 10 friends. My invitation was very simple. Please enjoy a cup of coffee or tea and a slice of cake. Sit and chat. In the midst of this hectic season it was indeed a welcome respite. It gave me so much pleasure to take out my tea service, light some candles and enjoy the aroma of Christmas baking in my home. The process is as much a part of the enjoyment as the actual tea.

It took time for the daily ritual of afternoon tea to evolve in the 19th century. Equally so, it seems that it took time for the ritual to all but disappear in the 21st century. It may be available in specialty tea shops and hotels but I’m talking about the disappearance of afternoon teas and coffee mornings in peoples homes.

Over the last few months, I have received many emails enquiring about travel to Ireland, each filled with questions that take time to answer. People have sent requests through Facebook and have asked me when I meet them about the various trips and recommendations I have for going there. I thought it would be nice to host an afternoon tea and introduce everyone to Ireland in my own way. A different way. The date was set for an afternoon tea on March 24.

While preparing for my tea, I was reading our very own Georgina’s column last month ‘ Baking - In Season’ Her opening paragraph resonated with my own thoughts that “the idea of spending hours creating delicious bakes in a cosy kitchen seems very appealing”

I knew I had to make the Ballymaloe Lemon Cake. I spent 3 days preparing in the kitchen for this tea. As I mentioned, the creative part of the process was so much fun for me. To make the rose petal jam meant picking my roses from my garden and lightly plucking each petal from the stem. As I did this it took me back in time to the days when I was 8 years old making perfume with my friends. We would put the petals in an old time Irish marmalade jar pour water in and just for good measure add talcum powder. We would sell this hot mess to neighbours! Lovey childhood memories are an anodyne for the soul.

I am lucky to have a friend who is so in love with Ireland that when she built her home here in Dallas, she visited several times and shipped almost everything from Ireland to Dallas. Even the gardens were inspired by the Irish woodland. It was here that I hosted ‘An Irish Afternoon in Dallas’

When the guests arrived they toured the wooded grounds, meandering over streams, through old gates, and had their photographs taken standing by old Irish road signs (purchased through salvage yards, I might add).

There is something very genteel and civil when pouring tea from a silver teapot into a fine bone china cup. Placing your serviette (napkin in USA) on your lap. I noticed people were listening to each other. Phones were put away. I knew each and every guest at this table but most did not know each other.

One lady was a pediatric neurologist, another a mother of 5 young girls, another a chef from Louisiana who was also a finalist on Top chef and a judge for the Food Networks ‘Junior Chopped’, a mother and daughter from Tyler, East Texas, others from Dallas who have been to Ireland several times but are eager to return.

We did discuss the upcoming trips I have arranged to Ireland but more importantly people made new friends and learned new things about each other. Both Republicans and Democrats around the same table chatting, discussing and laughing. Civil discourse, something that seems to have all but disappeared today, much like the ritual of enjoying afternoon tea.

Afternoon Tea Menu

Egg and cress sandwiches
Cucumber sandwiches
Tea infused posset served in china tea cups with a shortbread bite
Scones, clotted cream and rose petal jam
Ballymaloe lemon cake with home made lemon curd and edible flowers

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas tells us about a recent visit home to Cork

It had been many years since I made this familiar walk over Parnell bridge, crossing the South Channel of the River Lee towards Cork’s City Hall. Despite the passage of time its familiarity returned and I was that 19 year old girl again, with my backpack slung over my shoulder.

Some twenty six years later I was looking at this vista through a different lens. I have heard about people moving away, returning and, having supposedly taken their surroundings for granted, have a newly found appreciation for them.

That seems to be the common thought. Simply that we have taken it for granted and that we did not appreciate what was in front of us all the time. Is that it? Did I take everything for granted? Why then did I not appreciate this city and county of Cork each and every time I returned home from London in the 1990’s? I had ten days ahead of me to try and answer this question.

I was meeting with an old friend, whose office was located in Cork’s City Hall, which was destroyed by fire in 1920 and rebuilt by the British government. It overlooks the River Lee and is faced with dressed limestone quarried from Little Island - a simple yet impressive piece of architecture that has welcomed people over the years from all parts of the world.

I walked through the doors and announced myself to the receptionist as my appointment was with Cork’s Lord Mayor, Councillor Des Cahill. Growing up in Cork, I had never once questioned the title of Lord Mayor and not Mayor like most cities. Following a visit to Cork in 1900, Queen Victoria bestowed this title on the head of the Cork Corporation. A copy of this charter can be seen hanging on the walls of the Lord Mayor’s chambers.

My eyes were drawn to the Cork Coat of Arms woven into the centre of the carpet. ‘Statio Bene Fide Carinis’ which means safe place for ships. Cork harbour is one of the largest natural harbours in the world, and also one of the safest.

These chambers could tell many a story. President John F Kennedy’s signature can be found in one of the guest books and, as of April 2017, even mine can be found there! A Visit to City Hall Cork is encouraged. They would love you to sign the visitors book.

I heard so many stories that I had never heard before that I now know I must return and have an idea germinating within. I wandered back over Parnell Bridge and walked down the South Mall, my head full of new stories and characters. I was on my way to meet my brother for breakfast at Nash19, located on Princess Street. As I walked, I became more aware of the familiar lilt of the Cork accents around me.

My brother knew immediately what he was ordering for breakfast. “It had to be The Little Corker” he said. Bacon, sausage, black pudding, egg and buttered Arbutus Toast. “What’s Arbutus Toast?” he asked.

Luckily for us, we were talking with the owner, Claire Nash and she explained to him that Arbutus Toast was named after Arbutus Bread. Arbutus Bread, was founded by Declan Ryan, Ireland’s first Michelin star chef.

So, it was no surprise that he was also the first person to make sourdough bread in Ireland in 1999. Every ingredient on this breakfast plate was sourced locally. The sausage and black pudding came from the historic English Market down the street, the eggs were free range, the presentation artistic and the service friendly and efficient.

As luck would have it, or in typical Cork fashion, it just so happened that Declan Ryan (pictured receiving the Georgina Campbell Natural Food Award 2016) was visiting Nash19 with his wife, Patsy, for their morning cup of coffee. What followed was a treat that could not have been planned any better and one that I would not otherwise had a chance to enjoy had I planned and scheduled my day. Claire Nash invited Declan and Patsy Ryan to join us.

Here I learned so much more about my own home city, things that one simply cannot learn from going ‘online’. Story telling is such a vital part of history. It is the handing down of information from one generation to the next. I heard all about his days operating the historic restaurant and hotel, “Arbutus Lodge”. We discovered that they (both Ryans) knew my aunt and uncle very well. Mostly, we talked about food and service and not necessarily in that order.

We exchanged telephone numbers and email addresses and took photographs and I made plans to visit his bakery during my next visit in June. Claire told me all about the upcoming Long Table Dinner for 400 guests on June 18 on the South Mall. Twelve of Cork’s restaurants are working together to make this world class dinner happen outdoors, highlighting and showcasing the very best of ingredients from Cork. This promises to be quite an exceptional event (click for more)

I had just spent my first morning in Cork. It was 1pm and in such a short space of time, I had seen, heard and tasted a lot. Had I taken anything for granted before? I really don’t think I did. I have had time since returning from this trip home to Cork to think about it a little more and all I can think is that I have matured a little more.

My love of learning is never ending and my natural curiosity and love for positive people is as strong as it ever was, perhaps even more so. Coming home to Cork now means that I have so much more to see, learn, taste and experience. May I remind you that what I wrote about happened in just one morning and I spent ten days there. Imagine what you could experience if you visited Cork.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
Follow me on Twitter: @Rachelgaffney

Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas celebrates the official nut of Texas, the pecan.

Over the last few years, I have been battling health issues that have taken me to a heart hospital in Dallas to the world famous Cleveland Clinic and now to an autonomic nervous system and autoimmune specialist. A balanced healthy diet has always been of the utmost importance to me and I always thought I ate really well but recently I am learning that it is not as great as I thought it was.

What has been learned over the last decade is quite astounding and I consider myself fortunate to be here in Dallas now among the specialists and having access to cutting edge knowledge. We are learning how Vitamin D deficiency is being linked to breast cancer, heart disease and inflammation.

We also know that Vitamin E is a vital antioxidant that protects us from free radical damage and thus affects our immune function. I have been told that my consistently low vitamin D is attributed to being Northern European and that no amount of sunshine will help me. It’s in our genes. Which now explains a lot for me. Hence the autoimmune issues.

A research study from Lorna Linda University in California demonstrates that naturally occurring antioxidants in pecans may help contribute to heart health and disease prevention; the results were published in the Jan 2011 issue of The Journal of Nutrition.

With that being said, my own health journey has me paying even more attention to food, its origins and uses, not just from my native homeland of Ireland but my current home of Texas. I have increased the amount of healthy bacteria, grass fed meats and nuts to my diet to name just a few changes. One of the nuts I have added to my diet is the one and only official nut of Texas, the pecan.

In Europe and parts of the United States (mostly the East Coast) the pronunciation of pecan is pee~can, whereas here in the South it is pronounced as p’cawn San Saba is known as the Pecan Capital of the World. Located a mere 2 hours from Austin it sits above the Texas hill country. This is a big ‘ol state so to help you visualise let me give you some drive times. San Saba is 5 hours from San Augustine, 2½ hours from San Antonio and 7 hours from San Elizario. (San is the Spanish word for saint).

In the early 1800’s an Englishman, Edmund Riesen, was on his way to California and happened upon an abundant supply of pecans on the ground. These weren't just any old pecan, these were, in his opinion the best tasting pecans and they fell from the ‘Mother Tree’ which still stands today on the family homestead. The most popular varieties now come from this tree. The Millican Pecan Company in San Saba is run today by Winston Millican, his great great grandson.

Pecan trees need deep loamy soil to thrive and need long warm growing periods with night temperatures that are also warm. From this humble tree, pecan is used to make floorboards and furniture. But it’s the nut that we get so many uses for in our cooking here in Texas. Yes, of course we can buy bulk pecans whole, partially cracked, fully peeled and sliced, pecan meal or pecan flour.

The flour is made after the nut is pressed and the oil saved. A pecan pie made from this flour adds an even more buttery nutty flavour. However, this is a gluten free product so the appropriate measures need to be taken when baking with any gluten free product.

There are so many varieties of pecan such as the Burkett, the Cheyenne, the Oconee, (from the Gulf Coast), the Tejas (found in West Texas) and the Wichita (from Central Texas) to name but a few. Each looks, smells and tastes different to the next. You will find that anything that can possibly be done with a pecan is being done. Jalapeno pecan jelly (preserve not dessert), pecan coffee, pecan pie, chocolate covered pecans and pecan oil which is known to be better for you than some olive oils.

One of the most common uses for pecan shells is to soak them in water and then place them on your smoker when smoking briskets, chops and any other meats really. We use them in our home when using our Green Egg to smoke a pork loin or ribs. Every few hours we add some soaked pecan shells to the smoker.

Pecans are delicious added to your summer salads. If you don’t already use them try these delicious Candied Pecans:

Whisk 1 egg white and 1 tablespoon of water in a bowl. Add 450g pecan halves, stir in 1 teaspoon of salt, 70g of sugar (or to taste). Mix and place on a baking sheet with greaseproof paper. Bake for 45 minutes (tossing occasionally) in a preheated oven at 250º F.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Email: Rachel@Rachelgaffneys.com

Watch 'The Irish Kitchen' now on HULU
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas rustles up a short notice Irish trip for actor Jake McDorman and his childhood friend, Cole Evans

It has been by far the most unusual trip I have had to plan to date. They had booked their tickets from Los Angeles, to Cork, via Reykjavik. Friends since early childhood, Jake McDorman and Cole Evans had decided on a whim that they wanted to escape Los Angeles and Austin. “When are you leaving?” I asked. “In 48 hours time,” was the reply

Jake McDorman, is known for his roles in the movie American Sniper with Bradley Cooper, Live Free or Die Hard with Bruce Willis, star of the CBS tv series Limitless playing Brian Finch and in the tv series Shameless with William H Macy he played the part of Mike.

Meeting people and having conversations with them prior to planning their trip is crucial for me. There must be a dialogue first between us. I need to know who they are. They reveal clues and answers to questions I didn’t know I had. As their personality unfolds, I immediately think of people around the country they should meet. It always starts with the people. Usually I have months or at least weeks to plan, allowing me to really get to know them, but this was, as I mentioned, unusual. I had 48 hours.

They were already on their way to Reykjavik and I was planning their route from Cork to Kerry. Then it happened. In the middle of the night, I received a text message to say they were delayed in Iceland for a day and the flight would be diverted to Dublin instead of Cork. Fantastic. There went my itinerary. Where to start? Who to see? What to do?

The Taste of Dublin was in full swing at Iveagh Gardens. I knew that Cavan’s own Neven Maguire was one of the many culinary heroes being featured and I thought if I reached out to Neven, then I could take if from there. He welcomed Jake and Cole with the same warmth and kindness he naturally extends to everyone. A great start for their first day and night in Ireland.

It was Friday, June 16. I was looking ahead to the weekend. Cork’s Long Table Dinner was scheduled for Sunday, June 18. A dining table that would seat 400 people in the centre of the city, with 12 of the city’s finest restaurants and chefs showcasing the food and drink from the county, it was the perfect way for them to interact with the locals and really get a feel for the character of the city.

So I reached out to none other than fellow Cork woman, Claire Nash, owner of Nash 19 to help me with these two guests. I was working with a 6 hour time difference, limited cell phone service and was quite literally planning this trip on the fly, trying my very best to work a day or two ahead wherever possible. Claire Nash is now filed away in my mental Rolodex of ‘Go to people’.

There are people who find reasons why something can’t be done and then there are people who just ask, “what do you need” These are the people I will go to again and again and again. You may not get exactly what you had in mind but you get a solution. It is my understanding from Jake that he was interviewed by Mary Kennedy from RTE’s Nationwide and should have been aired sometime in August.

Sunday night at the Imperial Hotel Cork was now taken care of, but I was still a day behind. I had yet to arrange the Saturday night. It was now Friday afternoon in Dallas. Meanwhile, back in Dublin, Jake and Cole were having a wonderful night on the town with my good friend, Ray Ronan, an Aer Lingus captain. Ray is a writer. Ray co wrote Seconds to Disaster with Glenn Meade and is the author of Bombay Blood. I knew these three would have a lot in common, all with creative and inquiring minds.

My next go to person had to be, Aisling O’Callaghan, proprietor of Longueville House, Mallow, Cork. Her response was prompt. There was a wedding that weekend and they were fully booked. But within half an hour, she returned with the most wonderful news. She had spoken with the Bride to be and not only did they have two rooms available, but the bride invited them to be guests at her wedding. Jake McDorman and Cole Evans were about to attend their first Irish wedding.

All I will say is that I received a call from them the following day to tell me they were singing with the wedding party at 3am. The next afternoon, following a walk in the orchards with the O’Callaghans dogs, they set off for Cork.

On Monday morning, I was now on my own Texas road trip with three friends. We were spending a few days in San Antonio and the remainder of the week at the beach in Port Aransas. The guys had booked a 2-night stay through Airbnb in Ballydehob, West Cork. This was perfect as it bought me enough time to plan ahead. Through people they had met at the Long Table dinner, they were invited to spend the night in Crookhaven also. This was perfect.

I wanted them to visit Killaloe, the most wonderful place in East Clare. A place I was smitten by when visiting a few years ago. Located on the River Shannon and packed full of history, I remembered the activities on offer would appeal to the adventurer.

Several phone calls, text messages and direct messages through Twitter later, Jake and Cole would be guests for the night at my friend’s home in Killaloe. Now, my friend happened to be in Dublin during their pending stay but still wanted them to be his guests. They have a guesthouse and a family friend lives in this guesthouse. She would welcome them. And so she did. Oh how she welcomed them.

They had expressed the desire to canoe or kayak wherever she would recommend. She recommended they venture out to Holy Island on Lough Derg. She brought them to the shores edge and warned them that it was imperative they row around the island 3 times before disembarking. This was crucial as the bad luck that would befall them would follow them for a lifetime.

Eager to comply, they managed to make it around the island once but by now they were arguing with each other. Jake lost his Polaroid Camera overboard and so they each went their separate ways. By now, on his 2nd turn around the island, Jake decided he had enough. His luck was so bad that it could not possibly get any worse. He dragged the boat up, so as not to lose it. He stepped into a pile of cow dung and was greeted by a herd of, as he described to me, “the most curious cows ever” They walked right over to him and it was at that point that he looked over and saw his pal Cole walk across soaking wet from an unscheduled dip in the Shannon.

Later that evening, they soon discovered that three times around the island was in fact a wicked prank! That night they ate outdoors with this very same lady and listened as she told them all about Brian Boru and the Battle of Clontarf. The following day they climbed the Brian Boru tree, the oldest tree in Ireland with my friend, who had now returned from Dublin, and his children.They stayed in Killaloe another night.

It was time to meander back to Cork but not before stopping in Adare village and dining at 1826 Adare, owned and operated by one of my favourites, Chef Wade Murphy. Contemporary Irish food presented in an historic thatched cottage is an experience not to be missed. A warm welcome always awaits you from Chef Wade and his wife Elaine.

Jake and Cole wanted to return to Longueville House. It was beginning to feel like their home. Their special place. It was closed for their staff party. But, like all good homes, family are always welcome and so Jake and Cole were to join the family at Longueville House for their last night in Ireland.

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http://rachelgaffneys.com/

Facebook: Rachel Gaffneys Real Ireland
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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares a story from a recent Irish Culinary Adventure

In April 2018, nine ladies from Oklahoma, Texas and New Jersey set out on an ‘Irish Culinary Adventure’. We made our way to Carlingford, Co Louth, a medieval town situated along Ireland’s ancient East coast, founded by the Anglo Normans in the 12th century. Carlingford was pivotal in changing their perception of Irish food forever.

Carlingford is home to that famous mollusc, the oyster. It is here that you can eat an oyster directly from the Lough, as the water is classified by the European Union as Class A, the highest grade you can get. The oyster was to be the star of our adventure for the next 2 days.

We arrived at Ghan House, a Georgian property built in 1727, on Sunday afternoon. Paul Carroll, the proprietor welcomed us in the drawing room, where freshly brewed tea and coffee, home made scones and freshly baked shortbreads awaited us. Paul talked animatedly about his beloved Ghan House and medieval town, offering everyone suggestions and tips on how to spend their afternoon. Some went antiquing and looking at old Abbey, others went for lunch and shopping. I on the other hand went cycling along the Carlingford Omeath Greenway with Paul.

After an exhilarating afternoon, we gathered in the cocktail bar for pre-dinner drinks and it was here that the ladies were introduced to the gin phenomenon that has quite literally captured the nations attention. Shortcross Gin, Bertha’s Revenge, Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin, Minke Gin infused with the aniseed flavour of rock samphire and Blackwater Gin to name but a few. It was their first time to be introduced to elderflower tonic and so this sparked the conversation about elderflowers in Ireland and how they are foraged and used. Later dinner was served and it was in my humble opinion one of the best meals I have had to date in Ireland.

The following morning saw grey skies and a light sprinkling of rain but not enough to dampen our spirits as we drove the few miles to the family run ‘Carlingford Oyster Company’ Walking down to the oyster beds, the Mountains of Mourne loomed high ahead of us, and it struck me that it was not difficult to see why the author C.S Lewis drew his inspiration for the land of Narnia, in the children’s classic ‘The Chronicles of Narnia’, from this landscape.

Row after row of oyster beds were ranged before us, draped in seaweed with bags of oysters nestled on top. The water coming down from the mountains brings various nutrients and minerals from rocks and heathers and deposits these in the Lough. This in turn gives the Carlingford oysters their own unique taste. These bicuspids take three to five years to grow and each oyster can filter over 55 litres of water a day.

It was time for us to shuck our own oysters. These calcified shells are stubborn and a firm hand, a sharp knife and of course that all important know how is needed to release the hinge. One by one we shucked and failed, shucked and failed. Then finally, success, my knife released the lock revealing the fleshy interior of this sweet mollusc. I quickly slid it in my mouth and immediately tasted the combination of sweet and salty. Perhaps it was the mountain heathers that contributed to this sweet flavour. The salty sea spray had misted our faces leaving our skin soft and refreshed. We were ready to return to Ghan House where we would now cook with these oysters.

The afternoon was spent peeling, dicing, chopping, slicing, boiling, sautéeing and mixing. Much laughter could be heard from our group. Some cried while chopping onions, others learned that the metric system is used in Ireland as the Imperial system is used in the USA and therefore it is quite important to know this when baking!

We dined together in the old dining room. It truly was a feast for the eyes. The fruits of our labour, plates of Oysters Rockefeller, bowls of heaped mussels, freshly baked soda breads, poached salmon, white bean salad, freshly churned butter, sautéed mushrooms, shortbreads and summer fruits were arranged for us in such a way that we offered each other glorious praise indeed.What an invigorating day we had experienced. And this was only the first day of our Irish Culinary Adventure.

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Rachel Gaffney's Real Ireland

http://rachelgaffneys.com/

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Rachel Gaffney's Letter from Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in the USA recalls a memorable visit to County Down with a group of appreciative American visitors

As we draped ourselves over the guard rails, the sea spray softly misting our faces, the 13th-century ruins of Greencastle came into view. We had left the medieval town of Carlingford behind, and the ferry was steadily holding course towards Kilkeel, Co Down.
We were on our way to Ballywalter Park, for a very special sojourn.
As soon as we reached dry land and boarded our bus, our phones reminded us that we were now in the United Kingdom as some services switched from Vodafone to O2.

The drive to Ballywalter Park would take an hour and a half, and as we had plenty of time to spare, it seemed only fitting to visit some places along the way. We stopped at the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa for morning coffee and scones, followed by a brisk walk along the promenade and nipped next door to the world famous Royal County Down Golf Club to shop in their pro shop. Our next stop was Down Cathedral, the final resting place of St Patrick who died in 461 AD. Standing by his grave compelled me to silence. My group had gone inside, leaving me alone with my thoughts. The significance of where I was standing was not lost on me. With my only companion a robin, perched above on a branch, I quietly stood, breathed deeply and looked around thinking of all who had come here before me.

We were on our way to Mount Stewart House and Gardens, former home of the 7th Marchioness Edith, Lady Londonderry, and her family in the early 20th century. The house has been lovingly restored over 3 years and is well worth the visit. We went our separate ways for a couple of hours, some pored over the antiquities in this Neo-classical House, others walked the formal gardens and wooded areas with plants from all parts of the globe in every nook and cranny. Lunch was a hearty bowl of leek and potato soup, freshly baked soda bread and pots of tea and coffee to follow. Feeling inspired and replenished, we boarded the bus for the final 6 miles of our journey.

The excitement was palpable as we slowly drove the tree-lined driveway to Ballywalter Park. Like children on a day trip, eagerly awaiting that first glimpse of the ocean, they craned their heads above the seats, each hoping to be the first to spot the Italianate Palazzo style mansion. And then, there came the sight of the stars and stripes billowing in the wind atop the roof of this magnificent home extending a warm welcome to its American guests.

The bus slowly made it's way to the Porte-cochere, the gravel crunching beneath the tyres, all the while making our anticipation even more significant. As we came to a stop, there waiting to greet us were Lord and Lady Dunleath and, for the next twenty-four hours, they made us feel like guests in their home. The estate covers over 1200 acres and is home to one of Northern Ireland's largest dairy herds. We were escorted to our rooms and had just enough time to relax before cocktails and dinner.

Opening the windows in my room, allowing the evening breeze to cross through, I sat at the end of the bed and took in the magnificent vista. Windows and doors have always been a source of inspiration for me. I was indeed a long way from Texas. A red floral antique washbasin set perched on a marble table. A soft white bathrobe hung from the bathroom door. A myriad of books was stacked by my bedside, and fresh flowers from the garden adorned the room. Pewter tankards sat above the mantle of the fireplace, and as I continued to take in my surroundings, I wished that I could stay here longer. Stay here in this room. Perhaps sit at the writing desk outside my room and do what people do not seem to do much of anymore and write a letter to a friend, describing my stay.

Champagne was served in the drawing room and Brian Mulholland, the fifth Lord Dunleath continued to regale us all with stories and anecdotes. Vibse Mulholland, Lady Dunleath could not have been any nicer if she tried. Upon hearing how much I loved elderflower, she disappeared for a moment and returned with a glass bottle of homemade elderflower fizz.
They led us on a detailed and guided tour of their home, every nook and cranny, every portrait and statue with its own story to tell. Richard Turner was a Dublin born iron founder famed for his curvilinear conservatories and is perhaps best known for works such as Kew Gardens Temperate House, Palm House in Belfast, Palm House in Dublin, and Ballyfin Conservatory at Ballyfin Demesne, Co Laois to name a few. Yet, here we were in Ballywalter Park and with cocktails in hand, we walked around a corner and entered what seemed like a dream world. Before us stood the grandeur and splendour of a fully restored Richard Turner conservatory. Every care had been taken to restore it to its former glory.

We dined at the family dining table, and wines were served from the house cellars. The roast chicken was deftly carved by Lady Dunleath and ,as she did so, she explained it had come from the local farm. We had fresh greens from the garden with edible flowers and potato gratin. Rhubarb, also from the garden, was served in rosewater syrup, homemade sorbet and a gingersnap complemented it nicely. Piping hot coffee and petit fours awaited us by the crackling fire after dinner. What a glorious end to a glorious day.

The following morning, before breakfast, I took a walk around the grounds. There remained a light blanket of fog, and the only sound I could hear was that of the cackling of crows. The morning dew clung to the leaves and blades of grass for a time before disappearing completely into the morning sunlight. A stream ran beneath the footbridge and as I crossed it a pheasant in the distance burst upwards frightened by my approach. I returned to the house for breakfast.

After breakfast, Vibse Holland, an eminent food historian took us on a tour of the beloved Victorian walled gardens and glasshouse. She explained the importance of healthy soil, organic gardening, crop rotation and natural weed controlling methods. We walked, listened and took photographs. Asked many questions and laughed. We listened to her stories but most of all we felt her love and passion for her gardens and the importance of really great ingredients.

Our stay at Ballywalter Park was a memorable stay. For me, it has left an indelible mark on my heart and soul, and one day, very soon, I hope to return to sit and write a letter to a friend.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter From Texas

A Brave New Connection

There’s no substitute for experiencing a foreign land firsthand. Aldous Huxley understood this when he wrote: “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.”

When American Airlines makes the inaugural direct flight from Dallas to Dublin on June 6, 2019, my hope is the beginning of a deeper connection between two cultures that may hold some misconceptions about one another.

I had misconceptions of my own prior to moving to Dallas in 1996. What little knowledge I had about Texas, I learned from watching, ’Dallas’, the long running tv show of the 1980’s. J. R. Ewing represented the wealthy Texan, gold skyscrapers lined the freeways, oil was plentiful and cowboys all looked like Ray Krebbs.

Conversely, people here in Texas thought Irish food was boiled and bland, we drank a lot of alcohol, our golf courses were spectacular and our fields were many shades of green. I will not deny that there are accuracies in some of the above, but the knowledge void is as wide and deep as the ocean that separates us.

The Irish and the Texans are a lot alike. Feisty, passionate and fiercely proud of their heritage. Perhaps this is why so many Irish died defending the Alamo in San Antonio in 1836 and later that same month in the more historically significant Battle of San Jacinto. It is now known that the Irish, played a very significant role in the formation of Texas as an independent state.

Interestingly, both Dallas and Dublin have bridges designed by the Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava, Dallas has the Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge crossing the Trinity River in Dallas and Dublin has the Samuel Beckett Bridge crossing the River Liffey.

Returning to the present day, Irish people are still moving to Texas and are thrilled that there is to be a direct flight connecting us with Ireland later this year, thanks to American Airlines. The flight will leave Dallas Fort Worth at 8.30pm and arrive in Dublin the next morning at 11.20am. Some may decide to stay in Dublin for the duration but my advice is that you think about leaving your sojourn in Dublin to the end of your trip. This way you can be in Dublin the night before your departing flight and thus not having to stress about getting to the airport.

The majority of American travellers will be staying in Ireland for a week. There are of course, some who stay longer, but they are not the norm. So how do I persuade clients to stop trying to speed date with Ireland? It is hard, very hard, let me tell you! The natural inclination is to see as much of the country as possible. With a day on either side for air travel, they ideally have 5 or 6 days to experience all that Ireland has to offer.

I begin by explaining that the island of Ireland is quite simply beautiful, wherever you go. I completely understand that they have heard all about the Cliffs of Moher, The Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and The Guinness Storehouse but they do not need me for that. I remind them why they came to me in the first place. They have asked me to create an adventure for them, one that allows them to actually experience Ireland. The only way to truly experience Ireland is to engage with fiery, passionate, opinionated, witty, intelligent and creative people. Upon returning to the United States, these interactions will perhaps give a little insight into the ‘Hands that built America’ for it was the Irish who built the roads, the buildings, the bridges and indeed designed the White House.

I travel back and forth to Ireland every 3 months. I carry an old fashioned blue notebook with me at all times. Every positive experience gets written in here. A product I loved. An exceptional cafe. A friendly driver. An old bric-a-brac shop. A restaurant at the end of the pier. A yarn shop. A cheesemaker. A shop assistant. Yes, a shop assistant! I have two in particular and, by coincidence, both are called Helen.

Dunnes Stores is an Irish department store chain, founded by Ben Dunne over 70 years ago. If you walk to the back of Stephens Green Shopping Centre in Dublin, and walk into their flagship store, you may be lucky enough to meet Helen. A true Dublin character and an absolute delight. Each time I am in Ireland, I carve out time to do some shopping in this particular store (there are Dunnes Stores in 136 locations around Ireland). It is because of Helen. Yes, she helps me find what I am looking for and much more at times too, but her stories and personality encapsulate a genuine Irish lady. Recently I came away with a recipe for Roast lamb that Neven Maguire would envy! Helen shares stories about growing up in Dublin, gives you great tips and an even greater smile and welcome.

Then there is my other favorite Helen, who works at the House of Ireland in the Dublin Airport Duty Free location. A larger than life character you will not meet. She has the greatest Dublin accent, amazing patience and will treat every customer the way they deserve to be treated.

Both these ladies are hard working, funny, determined Irish ladies. I will of course guide you to castles, golf courses, country house properties and more - and my motto is very simple, If I won’t stay there, I won’t put you there - but meeting characters like these will enrich your experience in Ireland.

Rachel Gaffney's Letter From Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas takes a trip home and enjoys a new energy in her home town, Cork city, where ‘sharing and collaborating’ is becoming the norm - and the community spirit and quality of life make it a great place for companies to locate

Each city emits its own energy. I often hear people telling me about the positive vibe they felt when visiting that city. Einstein said “Energy can neither be created nor destroyed, it can only be changed from one form to another” I am currently visiting Cork City and the energy that is being transmitted is palpably positive.
Something is happening here in Cork.

On arrival I decided to see where the city would lead me. I had no plans but an open mind and a willingness to say yes to everything Cork had to offer. It began with the discovery that SeaFest was happening while I was here. SeaFest is presented by Cork City Council and the Marine Coordination Group and is co-funded by the Irish Government and the European Union. The Cork Docklands, once an area neglected by Cork people was heaving with new life. The magnificent historic buildings are being revitalised, offices are springing up, cranes are fully operational, hotels are being planned, ships are in the harbour and sailboats were moored along the quays. Irish Lights were on hand to give guided tours of the ILV Granuaile (named after the Pirate Queen) and I was fortunate enough to board this vessel with my good friend Chef Neven Maguire from MacNean House and Restaurant in Co Cavan. We were guided by the First Officer and met with the Captain. This ship supports Buoy deployment, helicopter operations support, Seabed Excavation, Seabed sampling and mapping. I discovered Princess Anne had recently spent 2 nights on this vessel. Children meandered on deck, learned about sonar equipment and how the Granuaile services the 12 spectacular working lighthouses around the island of Ireland.

As I walked along Albert Quay, towards the City Hall, I was now acutely aware of the architecture in my own home town and I noticed the facade of the buildings were different. They have been given new life. The City Hall, made from limestone quarried in Little Island was looking particularly majestic. New office buildings have sprung up around the quays and the contrast of gleaming glass and polished limestone made me feel just that little bit proud. I have always loved this city but now I notice a new sense of pride and ownership. Now, please do not think for a moment that Cork people have never felt that way, it’s just a renewed sense of pride that I sense. What is happening? Roads are being widened. Food emporiums are springing up. International companies are relocating and calling Cork their home. People are running 5k’s and kayaking on the River Lee. Opera Lane, the pedestrian laneway linking Patrick Street with the world renowned Opera House and Crawford Gallery is heaving with life. Cork City is alive.

I had noticed on Twitter that Cork’s Long Table Dinner were promoting a Long Table Walk. The ticket was 85 Euros. I purchased my ticket and set off on this walk with my good friend Aisling O’Callaghan from Longueville House in Mallow. We joined 13 other guests and met at Ali’s Kitchen in Paul Street. Our guide was that indomitable lady, Head Chef of Jacob’s On the Mall, Trisha Lewis.

Our progressive meal began at Alis’ at 2.30pm. From here we went to the Farmgate Cafe in the English Market, Nash 19, Electric, Jacob’s On The Mall, Crawford & Co, Dockland and finally The Imperial Hotel. We sampled oysters, Ballycotton Seafood, Cashel Blue Cheese, Local Beets, Kinsale Gin, Local Strawberries, Local Cheeses, Longueville House Cider, Crispy Kale, Gazpacho, West Cork Whiskey, Jameson Black Label Whiskey and dark chocolate truffles. Each restaurant has its own local story and its own fascinating history. I was so enchanted, that leaving each place was my only disappointment. However, if the idea was to leave you wanting more, with a desire to return, then it definitely worked.

Meandering through the Cork streets going from restaurant to restaurant, I felt alive. Claire Nash, the dynamic proprietor of Nash 19 shared the stories of her restaurant with us and how it also serves as an art gallery, partnering with the Crawford Art Gallery. She curates and features artists on a regular basis. Art and artisans connecting in the same creative space. I am very accustomed to people collaborating in the United States. In my own community, Dallas, working side by side and lionising each other is common place and second nature and it is this spirit that I seem to notice here in Cork. Could this be another reason for this invigorating feeling one gets here? My answer is most certainly yes, as everyone I have met and encountered is sharing and collaborating. Another reason for this positive energy I feel here.

The historic Imperial Hotel on the South Mall is looking particularly splendid. Outside people sipped their drinks in the early evening air and inside, the lobby and restaurant had a lively feel too. It was here that Michael Collins stayed, in room 115, the night before he met his demise in August 1922. But, his fighting spirit abides and it is probably no surprise at all that Cork is known as the Rebel County!

“ Under the Ireland 2040 Plan, Cork will increase its population by 50% in 2 decades, with a lot of planning and investment, ” says Tanaiste Mr Simon Coveney. It is not hard to see why so many companies are now locating to Cork, as there are much smaller commutes and a good quality of life. With all of this growth, it seems to be generating a lot of excitement and thus this excitement is churning out creative people. Great food, arts, storytelling, culture, sporting activities and hotels are everywhere. Cork City is a lively, evolving and exuberant city with a vitality that has to be seen to be believed.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - A Day at the Beach

Crawford’s Rock is an area off the County Down coastline and it is here that Michelle Wilson and her family forage the beaches for seaweed.

Tracey Jeffery from Northern Ireland Food Tours and I parked our car along the gravel road and made our way to the meeting point where Michelle was waiting for us. It was raining softly. I knew it was raining because I could hear the crackling sound it made on my jacket rather than feeling it.

A tent was set up along the beach and it was here, in this tent, that we were going to do some cooking with seaweed, of course. A selection of fish caught only hours before was packed upon a bed of ice. MourneFishbox.com supplied the fabulous selection of hake, cod, salmon and mackerel.

A culinary experience by the water would not be complete without a selection of oysters to shuck and so I willingly shucked, squeezed lemons and savoured.

Individual stoves stood side by side. What a perfect set up. We used rapeseed oils infused with seaweeds to heat our pans and tossed in assortments of seaweeds, fresh lemons, scallions and peppers. We laughed as we cooked side by side and sampled each others offerings. Accompanied by crusty bread and Irish butter, this meal, however simple was delicious.

Afterwards, we walked the beach and Michelle taught us how to cut the seaweed. We gathered the seaweed and packed it into a piece of net to be used later that evening. Michelle shared a vital beauty tip with us for our skin. From the seaweed she makes a gel that you lather on your skin. Leave it for 1 hour and up to 10 hours and wipe clean.

After an exhilarating afternoon learning, laughing, cooking, eating and foraging I retired to my hotel. That net bag I mentioned earlier was put to good use. I placed it, as instructed, in the bath, ran hot water over it and relaxed for 30 minutes in the water. The science behind bathing in seaweed has proven that it relaxes your muscles, moisturises your skin and even detoxifies. I can tell you this, it did leave my skin smooth and soft as did the seaweed gel treatment from Crawford’s Rock.

After a day at the beach along the County Down coastline I slept like a baby.

***Crawford’s Rock produces a range of Seaweed Salts, Seaweed Botanicals, Seaweed Seasonings and Seaweed Sprinkles as well as a Seaweed Capsule, they call ‘Vitamin Sea’.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Hospitality versus Service

I spent almost three months in Ireland this summer. Some of it was personal time, but the majority of my time was spent working. I stayed in hotels, dined in restaurants and cafés, hired rental cars, hired private drivers, escorted a tour group for eight days, booked sight seeing tours, used public transport and went shopping. I experienced some wonderful hospitality, but sadly, I (and some of my clients ) also experienced some terrible hospitality. And it is hospitality and service that I want to write about.

When I returned to Dallas, I was greeted with a leak in our shower. The plumber was called. He repaired the leak and that was that. Simple enough. I consider this to be a service or service. I did not expect the plumber to chat with me about my travels and ask how my flight was. I simply needed and expected him to repair the shower. When I check in to my hotel and the receptionist asks me for my reservation number and a credit card and issues me with a key, then a service has been provided. But when and if that same receptionist smiles and welcomes me and notices my address and asks about the climate in Dallas and proceeds to engage in conversation, then I am experiencing genuine hospitality.

Certain properties stood out this summer when it came to experiencing great hospitality. Tony Frisby at Dromoland Castle, Co Limerick, Shane Brett at Ashford Castle, Co Mayo, Carol Barrett at Dunmore House in Clonakilty, Harringtons Post Office & Cafe in Ardgroom, Co Cork, Kerry Coaches, Hertz Car Rental at Cork Airport, Jane O’Callaghan at Longueville House and Daphne Spillane at Ballymaloe House. I mention some names here, as these people seem to have ‘hospitality’ in their DNA.

When we arrived at Dromoland Castle, some of the ladies did not have anything planned and I thought it might be nice to book a carriage ride around the property and learn all about the history. Unfortunately, I did not pre book (I strongly recommend you do if you think you are interested) and there weren’t any times available until the following day. Then, whilst I sat enjoying afternoon tea with a few of the ladies, Tony Frisby walked up to me and asked if we could meet at the steps of the castle at 2pm and our carriage would be waiting for us. They had taken one of the horses out of the field and sought out our tour guide.

When staying at Ashford Castle in August, I was with a family from Dallas. We had enjoyed oysters for our lunch and they all remarked that these were some of the best oysters they had ever had. Later, I mentioned this to Shane Brett and asked where these came from. We had a dinner reservation that night. We were all invited to meet at Stanley’s 30 minutes prior to your dining time. We all sat around the raised bar and to our surprise the executive chef, Phillipe Farineau greeted us with different samples of oysters cooked and displayed on beds of seaweed. As if this weren’t enough, there was yet another surprise. In walks John Ward of Connemara Oysters. It was thoroughly enjoyable and as a result I plan on going back to arrange just such an experience with clients.

Carol Barrett, the proprietor at Dunmore House in Clonakilty looked after my group like a Den mother or house mother from an old novel. During dinner, (during the Taste of West Cork festival period) I distinctly remember leaning across to her and saying “ I feel as though I am in the middle of a Maeve Binchy novel”. I could not explain why I said that thing exactly to her, except to say that it felt warm and right. When we were leaving for the beach the following day, she had rugs, cushions and water bottles neatly stacked in wicker baskets for our afternoon. This was completely unsolicited and most welcome.

While spending a week in Ardgroom, on the Beara Peninsula, I met the Harrington family. Harringtons is the centre of the universe, well in Ardgroom anyway! It is the post office, the store, cafe, petrol station, bus service and hackney cab service. A bus broke down outside their door and a group of sodden German ladies walked in without much English between them. I watched in awe as Noralene Harrington brought them all in to the back of her home, made them cups of tea and coffee and ran their outer clothes through her tumble dryer to ease their discomfort.

I hired a car on two occasions at Dublin Airport. I had a problem with the first car in June and again another incident with the second car in August. On both occasions, the folks at Avis and Hertz at Cork airport could not have been nicer. Not only did they address the problems but they chatted and engaged and asked if I wanted to sit and have a coffee while I waited.

Jane O’Callaghan at Longueville House, well what can I say about Jane. Jane is possibly the elder lemon when it comes to hospitality and how things should be done. One of the ladies on my trip was commenting on a jacket her son had worn at the Great Taste Awards in London. It was indeed beautiful. True Irish craftsmanship. Jane insisted on getting the name and contact details of the tailor and then insisted on taking the lady the following morning to Limerick to be fitted for a jacket..

At Ballyamaloe House, we all sat outside and enjoyed tea, coffee and cream scones. Daphne Spillane walked out and heartily welcomed everyone to Ballymaloe. She chatted with them about their travels and asked where in the USA they all lived. The ladies have not forgotten this warm welcome, nor have I.

And lastly, but by no means least, someone or a group of people whom I believe need to be applauded loudly are the drivers in Ireland. These guys (I say guys loosely, forgive me if there are female drivers, I have yet to meet one) are simply amazing. Now drivers, I believe, almost belong in a category all by themselves. This is a topic I could talk about quite a bit. From the fabulous Dublin taxi driver who greets you at the airport to the coach driver to the private driver, these people are invaluable, talented and are at the very heart of hospitality. They act as more than driver. They need nerves of steel and have to deal with some very difficult personalities for hours on end and sometimes for days on end. A great driver makes a trip extremely memorable. I know my clients boast that they had ‘The Very Best Driver In Ireland’. Hats off to all the drivers over the years at Kerry Coaches and this year to the wonderful drivers at Emerald VIP Services.

I am not going to say where I experienced some terrible hospitality. It is not my place to publicly admonish, but these places have been noted. But what do we do? When you have a genuinely bad experience, and you speak to a member of staff about this and the reply you get seems somewhat rehearsed or contrived, does it inspire confidence? Here are some examples that I believe will only fuel your customers discomfort or anger. “Really, that’s very unusual, we don’t normally hear that”; “Thank you for letting us know, we will do everything we can to make sure it doesn’t happen again”.

My favourite one this summer was when staff proclaimed something was not their job. “I don’t work in the restaurant”, or “I don’t work in room service”. During the late 1980’s I was working and training at the London Tara Hotel. Some may remember Eoin Dillon, the General Manager at the time. During my days working on the Reception desk in this 830-room hotel, if a guest asked me for a cup of coffee, it was my job to find someone to make that coffee and, if not, go get it myself. If I told a guest that I did not work in a restaurant, that I was a receptionist, I’m pretty sure Eoin Dillon would not have been too happy!

Surely, these are not fixes that cost money but simply the reminder to use some common sense? Ah but, it seems nowadays, that common sense is not all that common and that hospitality and service are two very different things.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Cork�s Holly Bough Makes Me Feel Good

I cannot recall a day without hearing the words impeachment or Brexit, for quite some time. We are bombarded with the sound of politicians deriding each other, bullying seems to be the norm and people write the nastiest of comments on social media platforms. Words do hurt, along with sticks and stones. I’m tired, very tired listening to it all.

Halloween was barely over and commercials for Christmas trees appeared on the tv. Most people complain it is too early for Christmas but for the first time in my life, I am embracing Christmas like an oasis in the desert and it is all because of a Facebook post I saw on October 31 from the Cork Holly Bough announcing this year’s cover had been finalised.

Something happened when I read this post. The Holly Bough is a Cork tradition since 1897 and I remember this annual being in our home every Christmas but it was not something I read growing up. This was a publication my parents and grandparents read. Now, here I sit in Dallas, 4,500 miles away from Cork City and I am yearning for a copy of The Holly Bough. Memories are flooding and pooling in my brain.

I can vividly recall our annual visit to Crofts in North Main Street for our new Christmas shoes. Probably a good pair of leather Clarks shoes! The much anticipated visit to Santa Claus in Roches Stores. Visiting the toy shops in the weeks leading up to Christmas. This was our time to browse, dream and reach for the stars, garnering all kinds of inspiration for our letter to Santa Claus. For some reason I can remember one of my sisters asking for a school desk and another sister asking for a Tiny Tears doll. I wanted a pair of really good roller skates, the kind with the really good ball bearings you know, not the plastic noisy ones. I wanted those red leather adjustable skates so badly.

On November 1st, The Holly Bough revealed its much anticipated cover.

“The wonderful cover art was designed by Kinsale illustrator Don Carey and depicts a Christmassy scene based on an actual photo of Patrick Street taken more than a century ago.” ~ EchoLive.ie

Looking at the cover, it transported me back to a Christmas when I worked at one of Cork’s best known and beloved butcher shops, O’Donovan’s on Princes Street. It first opened its doors in 1900. My job was to slice cold meats and serve Cork Spiced Beef. People were layered 5 deep in front of each other at the counters waiting their turn. It seemed like there was a never ending flow of customers. I heard every accent the county of Cork had to offer. I met rich and poor alike all with the same love for Cork Spiced Beef. It was a Christmas tradition after all.

Oh that beef. What I would give for a slice of that spiced beef this Christmas. I can almost taste it. I have Christmas cookbooks displayed on my kitchen counter in November. The other day I opened jars of cloves and allspice simply to release the aromas.

Every day I have the Hallmark channel or Turner Classic Movies on in the background. The movies are simpler. Kinder. Slower. I cannot control the outcome of Brexit or potential presidential impeachment. I can however be kinder and I can bake and share with people around me. I can deliver fresh batches of mince pies to friends here and explain they are sweet and not savoury! I can attempt to make the best version of Cork Spiced Beef in Dallas and enjoy the process. Embracing Christmas a little earlier this year is my escape from the external noise and cruelty. The Holly Bough has sparked joy, warmth, love and nostalgia and that can only be a good thing.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Staying Relevant During Covid-19.

Her clients may all have cancelled their trips to Ireland this year - but, says the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas, this is the time to inspire people with content, ideas and itineraries.

I was watching this happen in China and Europe. We knew, somehow, that it was only a matter of time before it would affect us also, here in Texas. The week prior to St Patrick’s Day, they cancelled the parades and that was when my life and the lives of others changed because of the Covid-19 virus. Up until this point, I was struggling to keep my head above water. From the surface everything looked calm, while beneath I was paddling feverishly simply trying to keep up. Clients were calling almost daily to book trips to Ireland and I had already exceeded 2019’s sales figures by March. Indeed this was going to be a great year for travel to Ireland. Today, I cancelled the last of the pending trips for June and arranged refunds.

Things are different. Things are going to continue to be different. Yesterday, I heard someone saying, when all this is over, we will learn about new companies, new products and new ways of doing business. It is during a crisis that innovation also appears.

How do you continue to remain relevant in the travel business when nobody is travelling? This is the time to share even more content, ideas and itineraries. This is the time when people have time to read about your hotel, café or antique store. This is the time people need to know that when this is all over they can walk the Waterford Camino experience with Dr Phil and Elaine. Perhaps a mountain trail one day, an old coastal pilgrim path another or a cliff walk.

People will want to know where to go and what to do. They, like me, will be dreaming of wide open spaces and freedom. Breathing in sea air, whether it be cold, hot or stormy. We want to the freedom of experiencing these weather conditions by choice.

It began with a Facebook live baking class on March 17. Yes, live from my kitchen in Dallas, people tuned in from around the United States and we all baked Soda Bread together for 30 minutes. During these 30 minutes, people connected with me. They asked questions and shared their baking tips. There was no sudden demand for soda bread recipes but there was and is a need to connect.

Last week, we baked scones. One lady sent me a photograph of her scones, packed and ready for the physicians’ lounge at her husband's hospital. Another lady created a video of her 10 year old son baking and how he came up with his own soda bread creations.

While baking, we talk about Ireland. I talk about the food in Ireland and mention people and places I know and love. We talked about cookbooks and I shared a link to JP McMahon’s ‘The Irish Cookbook’, recently released.

Now is the time to tell people about the beaches, the mountains, lakes, hotels and museums. Now is the time to share Instagram Pages you love, Twitter accounts to follow and websites to visit. When the time comes…..and it will…people will want to get on the planes and trains and boats and travel and feel alive again. Now is the time to stay relevant.

https://rachelgaffneys.com/
https://www.facebook.com/RachelgaffneysrealIreland/
https://twitter.com/rachelgaffney

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

By now clients had either cancelled or postponed their trips to Ireland. It was not pessimistic but realistic to assume I would not be booking any more for this coming summer. What now? Do I post photos from past trips, do I talk about Ireland on Instagram or do I look for as much content as possible so I can prepare and organise future trips? All of it, I do all of it.

It started with some baking classes on Facebook and from there people engaged in conversation with me. I browsed through Instagram and watched the posts coming in from Ireland. Like some voyeur, I watched, listened and took notes. Never was there a more important time for me to gather content. Ordinarily I am meeting with clients, planning their trips, handling billing and generally running my business, like everyone else. There never seems to be a good time or there was never enough time to organise my research into categories and counties. Now there was time.

One day, an alert popped up on Instagram. Chef Kevin Dundon from Dunbrody House was about to go live. With my morning coffee, I sat by the pool and watched as Kevin made a simple sponge cake with strawberries. Sophie, his teenage daughter, filmed as he baked and talked and, watching him teach, I longed for strawberries from Wexford. A simple bowl of strawberries with fresh Irish cream poured over them was what I longed for. By watching this it gave me an idea. I needed to contact Kevin and ask if he would be a guest on my podcast and talk about Dunbrody House. I did and he did.

Both he and his wife Catherine connected live with us from Dunbrody House. During this podcast, we shared photos and video of Wexford. Places to stay. Things to do and see. A little history and more. People watched on all social media channels. The Irish Consulate in Texas shared that it would be airing through their distribution channels.

On Wednesday, May 13th I will be visiting Waterford when interviewing a lady in New York who owns a public relations agency - she visited Waterford 2 years ago and had the most wonderful experience at the Waterford Distillery. People are listening and watching. They are planning trips for 2021. In fact only this week, a family of 12 contacted me to create an itinerary for them.

There has never been a more important time to share content than now. People may not be able to travel now but they want to travel. They want to plan their travel. While I am busy planning their travel and curating some new trips of my own, I am looking for content. I am doing more research, bookmarking websites, creating lists on Twitter and contacting people. Please keep sharing and we will return.

http://rachelgaffneys.com
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/rachel-gaffneys-real-ireland/id1454052171

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

The New Normal was the phrase used back in 2008 following the global recession and here it is again, used every single day. It is now thrown around carelessly, without much thought. We have been through a rough and trying time. We are still going through it and will have a way to go, but new normal? I’m not so sure.

We frequently hear the term pivot. Used when a company has to make some fundamental changes to its business model. Either they are not delivering what clients need and want or it is not making good business sense. I too have taken a hard look at my own business model and have already begun to implement these changes.

The restaurant and hospitality industry has always been known for long hours and poor pay. I began my career in 1989, working in small hotels. Working late nights, staying well beyond my shift time for no extra money. Finishing up at midnight only to be back on the desk at 6.30am sharp. It was the norm. If you did not like it, you got another job. And so I stayed in this industry.

A few weeks ago, I was driving here in Texas and listening to a business analyst interviewing a chef in New York City. The chef said for every $1 coming in 95c was going out. Yes, that is correct. The analyst quite simply said this was an appalling business model. No other corporation would operate with margins like this. This chef explained that the rent was so high in New York and she paid her staff well. All valid reasons as to why so much money was going out. “But the fact still remains,” he said, “it is indeed an appalling business model.” She had known it for some time, long before COVID, but it was the norm. To work all day every day, to be this stressed for very little remuneration. It was what everyone else in the industry did. Then she said she had an aha! moment. She no longer wanted to live this way. She plans on making changes.

And so, to my thoughts on travel and hospitality. I think and feel things will change a little for a while. People will want exclusive rentals and private hire. People will want to get outside. People will avoid big cities. I see outdoor adventure being popular. It already is and people are requesting it. However, and please know this is early days, but people have said to me that they will book a trip to a country where they are guaranteed good weather. This can pose a challenge for Ireland, but please, I want to reiterate this is early days and I am simply passing along comments. I am currently working on a project around this very topic.

To escape the terms Pivot and New Normal, I would like to suggest using words like, adjustment, transition, develop and advance. These words are powerful. They do not incite fear nor do they cause utter paralysis. They suggest moving forward, rebirth and innovation.

I spoke to a business owner in Ireland recently and he told me he has a wonderful chef. Wonderful in the kitchen, but awful at managing the kitchen budget. While cleaning out some freezers during this period of closure he soon learned how much money was being wasted. This was not something he would ever have discovered during the normal course of business. This was a good thing as his kitchen is currently going through a complete overhaul.

Charity stores here in the United States have been receiving unprecedented amounts of donated clothing and household goods. People have been cleaning out cupboards, attics and garages. Businesses have been doing the very same and it is not a bad thing really. I am clearing contacts from my LinkedIn account. Clearing contacts from my phone. I have thrown many business cards away. Not because of clutter, but because I do not know them or I do not do business with them. I will value my time more. I have created a new model. I am trying to recall a time I contacted an attorney or tax adviser and offered them a coffee in order to pick their brain. The answer is never. On the occasions I have ‘picked their brain’ I received an invoice in return. People pay for time and knowledge.

In every industry, there are people who simply do the bare minimum, there are people who do things fairly well and then there are people who simply excel at what they do. I think we will see the cream rise to the top in the year and years ahead. I believe people are re-evaluating their business models and hopefully - and more importantly - re-evaluating their time a lot more.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

This month the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares her thoughts on Promoting Ireland – and draws our attention to a place that we already love which adds a whole new dimension to being ‘ pet friendly’!

As I write this column, the news is circulating across the globe that we are experiencing COVID spikes in the Sun States, namely California, Florida and Texas. Most people know I live in Dallas. People may see or hear that I am in Ireland this summer, and they would be correct. This trip has been planned for quite some time and it is not a holiday.

Once I arrive, I will be giving my information as required to the authorities in Ireland and will then spend 2 weeks in quarantine, also required. Ordinarily I would simply re arrange my flights for another time. I have been working with a TV producer in Connecticut for a few years and we are filming over a period of four weeks. We have hired the cameraman in Ireland and after my quarantine we will hit the road visiting North Kerry, Limerick, Clare, Connemara, Co Down and Dublin.

I have just completed my fourth month of stay at home in my house here in Dallas. My only outings have been to the grocery store, one doctors appointment and a much needed eye doctor appointment. A girl has to be able to see! I seem to have lost all sense of time and I am now really missing my friends and my kids. My oldest lives Downtown Dallas and he does not leave his apartment either. Our youngest did not return from University as he did not want to risk coming home either. I miss them very much also.

During this time frame I have learned so much more about Ireland. I have made some wonderful new connections and friends through social media. As much as people might dislike Zoom or Instagram Live, I find they have introduced me to people, places and products in a better way.

Today, for example, I hosted an Instagram Live conversation with Rosaleen McMeel, former Editor of Image Magazine, who now writes for The Currency News and CEO Magazine Australia. We talked about our likes and must haves coming out of Ireland. The idea was and still is very simple. Tell people the stories. Share the products. I learned about new skincare products, new fashion designers and places. Rosie learned about a few from me also. People joined in and waved. We included them. I have developed a feeling for a certain brand, property or person through their social media accounts. Some are really great at engaging and this engagement works.

A few weeks ago, I received a tweet from Barrow house in Tralee. A luxurious eight bedroomed guesthouse overlooking the water. They had me at hens. Yes, hens. When they told me they had a spa and guest house for hens, I knew I had to learn more. I am a frustrated farmer really. I like the land and the sea and the dirt. But, I simply love, hens, chickens and bees. I found out that they do indeed have a special hen house for guests who want to bring theirs with them. I simply love this. So much so, that I just have to visit and check it out as I think this is a property my clients will simply love.

If I won’t stay there, then I won’t book you there is my mantra. It’s important for me to know everything about a place. If Daragh McDonagh had not drawn my attention to this hen and chicken spa, I might have missed it. It is yet again another reason why people in the travel and hospitality business must and should engage whenever they can. It works if you work it.

Again, if you see me or hear that I am in the area, please remember that I will be self quarantining for two weeks and doing everything required of me. And do please send me tweet or follow me on Instagram of you think I should know about your property.

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

This time my trip to Ireland was very different. It looked different and it felt different. This must have been what Ireland looked and sounded like long before people travelled internationally.

A country devoid of all, well almost all, foreign accents.

I was aware of different regional Irish accents. It was indeed lovely to meet a couple from Carrickfergus, Co Antrim and hear accents from my own home county of Cork, while spending time in Connemara and Co Down. Irish people were indeed moving around their own country. But, it felt so incredibly strange not to hear people speaking French and Italian or to not see or hear groups of Spanish students gathering in cities during their usual Summer study programmes.

There was another huge gaping chasm and that was the absence of the American accent. I missed spotting the college spirit wear and trying to identify the college, football or baseball team represented on that hat or sweatshirt. I missed seeing the stylish French and Italian gentlemen, who when walking along the Irish streets, looked like they walked off a runway. I missed hearing people get so visibly excited and animated upon discovering their heritage.

I felt rather sad.

Ordinarily I would not have come to Ireland during such unusual times but we had planned to film for a few weeks and we felt that this material could be used to plan future trips and to promote Ireland for 2021.

I added two weeks to this trip to abide by the self quarantine rules. Once completed, I drove in one car and the cameraman drove in another.

It was rather disheartening to hear such anti American sentiment. On one occasion I was driving over the Caha Pass from Cork to Kerry and I stopped to take in the view outside Molly Gallivan’s Traditional Farm and Cottage. Two men sat on the wall and we exchanged a few pleasantries. After I had said how beautiful it was, one of the men said to me “You know what’s more beautiful, no Yanks here this summer.” This was not the first or last time this summer I heard such comments but I chose to ignore them.

The Notre Dame v Navy College Football game was due to be held in Dublin on August 29. The cancellation of this game obviously saw so much of my business cancel along with it. Unfortunately as there are no plans for this game to be played anytime in the next couple of years (Nebraska v Illinois will be played in 2021), the business has cancelled. People have not re-scheduled.

I find there is only one way to deal with the loss of business, disappointment and hard times and that is simply to accept them. Acceptance does not mean you have to like it. I do not like it at all. I am hopeful. I simply cannot see this lasting forever. People will travel and people do want to plan their travel. They want something to look forward to. I did notice some changes in how people were travelling before Covid and now these changes seem to be here to stay. People want to avoid cities. They want more outdoor adventures and open spaces. They want exclusive use of properties for small groups.

When I flew out of Dublin Airport on August 26th, it felt as though they opened the airport just for me. I saw chairs upturned on tables, staff standing idly around and no lines at security. It was just eery and sad. Now that I am back in Dallas, I will spend the winter months talking about every new place, product and person I met and discovered. I will design and curate group trips for the summer of 2021. The trips may look a little different, but the time I spent researching over the summer will certainly pay off. Here’s to a healthier 2021, in every way.

https://www.rachelgaffneys.com/

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

I can remember packing sandwiches and a few biscuits and meeting my friends among the trees at the ripe old age of 11. We played for hours in the woods. We used to think we were Enid Blyton's fictitious Famous Five, solving mysteries in the woods and if there were no mysteries to be found, then we simply created our own mysteries. We sat beneath tree canopies and ate our light repast, cradled by enormous tree roots. Over the years it was among these trees, that we played and imagined. They sheltered us, held us and nurtured our childlike wonder.

The only thing better than childlike wonder is experiencing childlike wonder as an adult. Four decades later, and I am still that 11-year-old girl (in my own mind anyway!) Put simply, I feel good, when I am amongst the trees. I don't want to leave. I am at peace. A feeling of wellbeing.

Shinrin - Yoku is Japanese for Forest Bathing. Forest Bathing is the practice of reducing stress levels, boosting energy levels and giving you an overall sense of wellbeing. Dr Qing Li is an MD and immunologist in Japan. He is the world’s leading authority on Forest Medicine. He is the author of 'Forest Bathing: How Trees Can Help You Find Health and Happiness'. Thanks to Dr Li, forest bathing is catching on and it is gaining more attention. Stress inhibits immune function. Dr Li set out to prove that forest bathing could reduce stress and thus benefit our immune systems.

Shirley Gleeson lives in Dublin and is the founder of 'Ecowellness Consulting' and the co-founder of the Forest Therapy Institute, I recently learned about Shirley Gleeson while attending a virtual forest bathing experience with Gráinne Bagnall of Forest Bathing West Cork. Gráinne explained to us that this was a rapidly growing movement in Ireland.

There is no substitute for the real forest bathing experience, but during these difficult and tenuous times we all find ourselves in, connecting virtually will have to suffice. And so it was arranged.

On Sunday October 25th, I sat beneath the Oak tree in my garden here in Dallas and connected virtually with six people in Ireland and Holland. Led by Gráinne, she took us on a virtual forest bathing experience live from the Manch Estate, a private woodland estate of 320 acres in County Cork, Ireland.

Initially, we were introduced to a little background on forest bathing. Then Gráinne began her walk through this historic estate and we all watched and listened. I was present. I was engaged. She stopped and touched the bright green soft, squidgy moss. I listened as I heard the crunch of the fallen autumn leaves beneath her feet. This was not a hike. Not a race to get anywhere. It is a reminder to be where you are. To close your eyes and listen. To smell. I could hear the squirrel scamper on the fence behind me. He was not in the Manch Estate but scurrying behind my oak tree. I could hear Gráinne speaking. I could feel the light breeze on my face. I thought of the forests and trees I love so much in Ireland. Suddenly the memory of a hushed evening stroll I took while staying at Mount Juliet Estate in County Kilkenny came flooding back. Memories and more memories danced in and out of my head. I recalled the walk through the Cavan Burren Park with Jim Nolan.

I could hear water babbling. And then, I thought of the wood pigeon, oh those wood pigeons. A sound I associate with Ireland. A sound that comforts me and has been etched forever in my memory bank of sonorous sounds.

I have stayed in so many hotels throughout my life. When my friends are booked into the spa, I can be found walking the grounds, climbing stone walls and fences, paddling in the water, smelling rosemary, wandering walled gardens, caressing moss and scrunching leaves in my hands. I need a full sensory engagement to relax. An affinity to nature brings about a feeling of renewal and reconnection for me. Nature is my anodyne.

Thousands of years ago, Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine wrote about the body's ability to heal itself, he called it 'veriditas' (green life force). Our nervous systems can reset themselves. I know only all too well, as I have experienced this. I was ill for many years. I saw doctors, the best doctors in well-known clinics, and took the medications they said I needed. But when I had had enough, I saw a new doctor and embraced the fundamental science behind self-healing and the resetting of my immune system. I felt better than I had done in decades. This worked for me. I no longer took medication. This was my journey. Of course, it required time. Something we do not like to embrace in our Western culture. We want it fixed now. We want a pill, procedure or treatment to make it instantly disappear.

It has been well documented that simply being around trees, lying beneath trees and looking at trees reduces blood pressure and the stress-related hormones cortisol and adrenaline.

Forest Bathing with a trained guide is an experience you will not forget. Next time you are in Ireland, may I suggest you try this.

Disconnect. Be Present. Return to childlike wonder, for this has to be wellness and wellbeing at its very best.

https://www.rachelgaffneys.com/

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas anticipates a new world of travel as we gradually emerge from Covid restrictions – and it’s one in which Ireland has a lot to offer

As we near the end of 2020, we are still dealing with exhaustion, defeat, submission and frustration. Looking ahead to 2021, we know that travel has changed. People’s travel habits have changed. They may not know this yet, as most have not left their own neighbourhoods, let alone their own country, but once they board a plane or ship for the first time, they will notice the changes. Some people will be ready to travel without any fear, some will be overly cautious and others will not want to travel at all.

This now means people in the hospitality industry will be welcoming, serving and dealing with a new kind of customer. I have experienced this in the last few months. Acceptance will play a key part in recovery.

The Oxford English Dictionary defines acceptance as
1) The action of consenting to receive or undertake something offered.
2) The process or fact of being received as adequate, valid or suitable
3) Agreement with or belief in an idea or explanation
3.1) Willingness to tolerate a difficult situation

Willingness to tolerate a difficult situation. I believe, it is here, in this statement that we begin our road to recovery and continue to build healthier businesses. We have all tolerated, for the most part, what needs to be done during Covid. It is when we are permitted to travel again that we will see the uglier side of people and it will not always be solely from the customer. We will experience it, I have no doubt, from staff working in the hospitality industry. I suggest we have a conversation with our staff and colleagues around this very topic.

I am not at all afraid to travel. I will do what is asked of me and comply. I will hope for the best. I have a friend who is terrified to leave this city. I don’t share her fear. I have a client who is immune-compromised and will not travel next year either. She wants to wait until 2022. I have a small group simply chomping at the bit to get over to Ireland to play golf as soon as possible.

This year has highlighted to me just how intolerant of other people we can be. We may not agree, like or understand someone else’s fear or belief, but we must kindly accept they have them. I recently attended a virtual travel summit and listened as hoteliers in other parts of the world are making this a much more accessible option for guests by eliminating room service fees and better menu options. Some people simply do not want to dine in restaurants.

The demand for private aviation, exclusive villas, private experiences, shared charters are at an all time high over here in the United States at the moment. People are traveling in small groups in what is known as pod travel. Large families or groups of friends are planning their trips together. Properties offering exclusive rental are uniquely poised for this market. But, make no mistake, these travellers are accustomed to the very best. They are discriminating and have a discerning eye. They will want large comfortable beds, powerful water flow in their showers, fresh and plush towels, access to personal chefs and more. They need reliable internet as they will be working away from home and taking their family with them. The Cliff Beach House in Ardmore comes to mind. This property ticks all the boxes for the discerning and discriminating traveller.

Ireland has a lot to offer. It always has had a lot to offer, but now more than ever, we need to make sure we get people there. Here’s to a healthier and happier 2021 to everyone.

https://www.rachelgaffneys.com/

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Dressing The First Lady

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas looks beyond the food world, to a different craft - and shares a proud connection between Ireland and the new First Lady’s beautiful outfit at the US Presidential Inauguration.

The Texas Bluebonnet, the Indian Blanket, the Wild Prairie Rose and the Yucca are just four of the fifty U.S Sate flowers, embroidered on the sumptuous white cashmere coat and dress worn by the new First Lady of the United States, Dr Jill Biden.

Designed by Gabriela Hearst, she assembled some of the most talented people in the garment district in New York to create this memorable ensemble. Among them, was Irish woman, Laura Weber, founder of LW Pearl Atelier.

Laura was born and raised in Dublin and moved to New York in 2013. Rosaleen McMeel, Editor writer and brand consultant, introduced Laura to my viewers on the latest episode of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, ‘New and emerging Contemporary Irish Talent’. She shared imagery of her work for designers such as Thom Browne, March Jacobs and Dolce & Gabanna.

Laura opened her own Atelier, focusing on both hand and machine embellishment. Designers and brands bring their concepts to Laura. Laura breathes life into these concepts and together with her team they will suggest the technology to bring that product to fruition.

Gabriela Hearst sought out Laura for an historic project. To embroider 50 state flowers on the hem of the First Lady’s cashmere coat, organza sleeves and neckline of her dress and on her much admired face mask. The peach blossom is the state flower for Delaware and it was this flower that took pride of place on the mask.

Neatly embroidered inside her coat was the quote from Founding Father, Benjamin Franklin “Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn”

Dr Biden’s inaugural outfit has garnered world wide attention and rightly so, but it does seem to me from observing activity on social media platforms that the crafting community is alive with excitement for embroidery. Quilters, knitters and crocheters are all sharing the imagery, researching cross stitch and ordering needles and threads online.

The pandemic has lured people back in to their kitchens, seen the return of jigsaw puzzles and board games, roller skating and knitting. I wonder will we see an embroidery movement online?

Would you like to learn more about Laura’s process? Maybe you would like to ask her a question about this process? Laura will be joining me for a half hour in the next episode of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, ‘Dressing The First Lady’ on Tuesday, February 16, 7pm Irish time. It will air on my YouTube Channel, Facebook Live and Twitter. Links are provided below.

Join in live to watch, listen and ask questions.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjRxGHR3XqZObhylQ-5txHw
https://www.facebook.com/events/269237344549531/
https://twitter.com/Rachelgaffney
Dressing The First Lady

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Revenge Travel

Revenge travel. Yes, it’s a term and lately it’s being used a lot. In some ways it’s an unfortunate word as it implies harm or hurt but when you add the word travel it evokes action and energy. It was not enough that we could not travel for the last year, but to add insult to injury people were relegated to attics, closets and kitchen tables. I don’t care how advanced technology is, human beings are not meant to sit behind screens.

The world is emerging from this extraordinary period of hibernation, some of us are emerging faster than others, but one thing we all have in common and that is the need to drive, fly, walk, swim, hike, climb and bike. We all need to move. Before a volcano erupts, there are several precursors. These include changes in heat flow, swelling of ground surfaces and increases in intensity of felt earthquakes. They shake and undergo tremors for minutes and hours before erupting. The precursors for revenge travel are all there, if you can recognise the signs.

People have not spent money in the last year. Dining out and other extra curricular activities were snapped away from them. Now they are ready to travel and travel with a vengeance. There is pent up demand. Greece, Turkey and Croatia are popular places in Europe right now. They are ready for visitors. These countries have been marketing and informing people very well over here in the United States. I now hear my friends and clients telling me they are going in August.

Sadly, I have had to cancel all remaining client trips to Ireland for 2021 as people are unsure of the message and are confused. To be fair, I am too. I am advising them to wait until 2022. People’s travel budgets have increased. For the last four or five years, I have been booking a lot of multi generational trips. The matriarch and patriarch of the family are gathering families together to create memorable experiences.

I am currently working with a family here in Dallas who will be going to Ireland in May or June of 2022 and there will be 19 people in this group. I will hire a driver for the duration and select only two properties. Airlines, hotels, cruise lines and travel agents have always been in the business of upselling. Now, the customer wants to upgrade to business class, first class, suites and exclusive rental. They feel they deserve it. Their travel budgets were not used and now they want to reward themselves. They also want to travel in small groups or pods and have exclusive access to properties.

Luxury travel is soaring. I am currently researching and looking for properties that will fit this requirement. However, be prepared for what this really means and entails. Exclusive rental and self catering or two very different products. The luxury market is looking for a property to rent exclusively but they do expect all that goes with this. The devil will be in the details. They will want a private chef or access to one when required and a butler or staff member on site. They will want a fully stocked refrigerator and bar and luxury bed linens and towels. A property that springs to mind, ideally equipped and ready for this emerging market, is the Beach House in Ardmore (see above). Properties such as these are so common in Belize, Punta Mita, Florida, Montana and many many more places. My clients use these all the time. People want to stay in one place and unpack their bags once.

Wide open spaces and sustainable travel are of critical importance. Now is the time for places like Cavan, Sligo, Monaghan to sell sell sell. The Shannon waterways are ideally placed to offer river cruising trips (pictured below:'Shannon Princess'; Ireland's bluebook.com). People want to give back and over tourism is another buzz word. Towns and villages in Ireland who did not get the lions share of tourism in the past, should now be hanging out their ‘Open for Business’ signs and pitching like crazy.

Revenge Travel golf courses are filling fast for 2022. I and other travel agents and agencies are re scheduling tee times from 2020 and 2021 along with new clients for 2022. This will probably create a supply and demand situation. BUT, and I cannot stress this enough, people ask me about Ballybunion, Tralee, Old Head of Kinsale, Waterville, Doonbeg, Hogs Head and Killarney all the time. They are fantastic courses and for most people they are bucket list courses, along with Royal County Down, Portrush and more.

But Ireland has so many other wonderful golfing opportunities to offer and people need to know about these. I like to encourage my golfers to try Rosses Point in Sligo, Dooks in County Kerry, Ardglass in County Down, Seapoint in County Louth, Fota Island in County Cork, Mount Juliet Resort (see below). The bucket list courses are crucial and attract people but there are so many more courses. These other courses play a vital role in filling hotels, guest houses and restaurants in their towns and helping us combat over crowding and over tourism.

As I mentioned above, I have cancelled all my client trips for 2021 and sadly these are cancelled and not to be rescheduled anytime soon. My focus is now on new business for 2022. I am putting together some new itineraries and packages for next year. People are planning their trips. In order to plan a great itinerary for my clients it is crucial that you stay engaged and keep telling us what you have on offer. I and others are watching, reading and listening. There is a groundswell and an increase in intensity. Revenge Travel is here.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Let's Go Wild

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is planning for 2022 - and she, and the groups she’ll bring to Ireland, will be embracing the Irish weather

After spending so many months indoors, perhaps it is only natural that people want to experience the great outdoors. The great American road trip is back and back with a vengeance. People are booking luxury resorts, cabins in the woods and the great American RV or recreational vehicle. Only last week I was speaking to someone who is going on a road trip for a month, taking in the National Parks.
The news that Ireland is preparing to reopen to international visitors is exciting. I don’t think people are ready to jump on long distance flights just yet, but soon, hopefully really really soon. And when they do, they will want to experience the great outdoors.

Ireland cannot compete with countries like Greece, Spain and Mexico when it comes to weather. This we know for sure. The lure of guaranteed sunshine, white sandy beaches and clear waters is powerful. So, what do I do when it comes to selling Ireland? I embrace it. After all, it’s only weather.

A few years ago, I took a group to Connemara and we stayed at The Delphi Lodge in Leenane. The day we arrived, the heavens opened and it rained for the duration of our stay. It was one of the highlights of our trip. Not because we were wet but because it was so invigorating. We knew it might rain before we went. We knew we were not going on a beach vacation. Whilst up on the mountains watching the sheepdog, the rain came across Killary Harbour in sheets. We were provided with rain gear and boots. We walked into the rain and felt it on our faces. A slight adjustment in your thinking is all it takes. To accept it. Grumbling about it makes it worse, so much worse. Accepting it and turning towards it made it so much more fun. Genuinely.

When we returned to Delphi Lodge, the fire was lighting and hot whiskeys were served, even though it was only early September!

I am currently planning group trips for 2022. Does your property offer outdoor activities that we should know about? Perhaps you offer forest bathing, beekeeping, foraging or fly fishing? Why should we stay with you? Is there something for the adventurous among us? Cliff jumping perhaps or surfing outside your property? Please let me know. I will be writing about the great outdoors in Ireland and your property could be featured in this article. You can email me with your suggestions to rachel@RachelGaffneys.com

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - The Floodgates Open

The floodgates opened last week. New and returning clients are all eagerly booking their trips to Ireland for the summer of 2022. Whilst this is great news, on the other hand I now find myself in a unique situation. Hotels are filling fast, some are fully booked already for the dates I requested and getting tee times in places like Royal County Down are like hens teeth.

I met with 3 couples the other day to plan their itinerary and route.They will be going for 9 days. This can be the toughest part of the planning process.
I ask them to tell me everything they want first. No matter how big or how small, I want to know. Dublin, Dingle, Waterford, Ashford Castle(image right), Adare Manor, Cliffs of Moher and Royal County Down were all mentioned at this meeting. All noted. These locations pretty much cover all corners of the country.

The next part of my planning process is to outline the times spent in a car. This is crucial. I have seen so many Irish travel itineraries and I wonder if the person or people planning them have in actual fact, driven or visited before booking for others. Over the course of a week, 3 and 4 hours a day in a car or bus adds up to quite a lot.

It was agreed that staying at Ashford Castle for 3 nights was a must. With these reservations in place, the route must now be planned. It means, some places will have to be ruled out. In this instance, Cork, Kerry and Waterford have to be ruled out. They will fly to Dublin and fly out of Shannon.

I find this to be one of the toughest parts of the planning process, eliminating places. I have to create routes that keep people moving forward and not doubling back on themselves.

These clients will spend 3 nights in Dublin, drive cross country to Cong, Co Mayo for 3 nights and then move south to Gregans Castle (image right), Co Clare and then finally stay in either Killaloe, Co Clare or Dromoland Castle before departing for Shannon Airport.

Over the years, I have been encouraging people to spend a minimum of 2 and 3 nights in each place. Since last week each and every group seems to want to do this. They are looking for relaxing and immersive experiences. My hope is this trend will continue and bookings continue to roll in for 2022.

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Rachel Gaffney - From Cork to Connemara with the Wall Street Journal

WSJ + (Wall Street Journal Plus) is a complimentary benefits programme for subscribers of the Wall Street Journal publication. It offers exclusive access to experiences, special offers and events. “WSJ+ and Indagare (a boutique members only travel-planning company) have partnered to present a new series of unique Global Classroom events that give members a deeper look at art, cuisine and architecture.”

Over the last few months, members have been transported to Barcelona, Machu Picchu and Krakow. On September 29th I had the pleasure of introducing people to Cork and its maritime history. The journey began at The Crawford Art Gallery. It was only fitting to start here as this building was originally built in 1724 as Cork’s custom house. The boats pulled up and moored outside on the River Lee and were processed here. Cork was known as the Venice Of The North.

As I walked inside the gallery, the cameraman followed and Mary McCarthy, Director of The Crawford, greeted us. Together we walked inside the Sculpture Gallery and the contrast of the vivid bright blue walls with the crisp white of the Canova Casts came to life on the screen. We wandered past the Rembrandt print exhibit, up the staircase stopping to look at the stained glass window, the paintings of Hugh Lawton and Fiona Shaw and back down to admire the Cork Crystal. All the while I talked with Mary about Cork’s past, its centre as a major trading port and the fortunes made in the city by wealthy merchant princes in the 1700s.

I left the gallery taking the viewers on a walk through the Huguenot Quarter. The narrow pedestrian streets were buzzing with outdoor diners. Brightly coloured murals adorned the walls alongside the Huguenot cemetery, one of the last two surviving cemeteries in western Europe. The English Market was a must see. We visited Ballycotton Seafood and of course no visit would be complete without a chat with Pat O’Connell from K O’Connell’s Fish merchants.

To complete this tour of Cork, we made our way up the staircase to The Farmgate Café, where a table was laden with Cork produce. This hour long class was produced and co-ordinated from New York and questions were moderated by Indagare Travel.

Next month, I travel to Connemara. I will knock on the doors of Kylemore Abbey and we will be welcomed inside by Sr Magdalena as together we will share the history and stories of the last century at Kylemore.

https://www.wsjplus.com/invites/indagare-courses-connemara

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Rachel Gaffney - Exploring Cork City

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas enjoys a day out exploring some of the gems of her home town

During the autumn I hosted two live digital feeds from Ireland for Indagare Travel and the Wall Street Journal. One in September and one in October. The weeks between the episodes allowed me to spend more time in Cork City. I set about each day with no particular plan but to let it unfold so I too could enjoy the city. It is of course my home town, but a city that has evolved and I wanted to see what she had to offer.

My day, like many days, began in Lafayette’s Brasserie in the Imperial Hotel. I would order a latte and sit by the window, looking out on the South Mall. With its magnificent ceiling and ornate deco one would be forgiven for thinking one was in a Parisian café. Each and every time I sit here, I always feel warm. Whether it be the sun streaming through the window or simply listening to the animated lilting Cork accents around me. It is almost always from here, that I plan my day. On this September day, I had arranged to meet a friend for lunch but where and when was yet to be determined.

I knew Elizabeth Fort had opened its doors to the public almost a decade ago but I had yet to visit. As it was a beautiful sunny day and Elizabeth Fort was a mere fifteen minute walk from the Imperial Hotel, I decided today was the day to visit.

As I walked down the South Mall, I was reminded that this city once resembled Venice with it’s steps and mooring points for boats. These rivers now run beneath the South Mall. Crossing over the bridge, I made my way up Barrack Street, my legs noticing we were indeed walking uphill. A short walk nonetheless. Entrance to this visitor attraction is free, which was a pleasant surprise as I for one am more than happy to pay an entrance fee to support its upkeep. This spectacular star shaped fort dates back to 1601 when it was first constructed.

I walked the walls of this fort, stopping to take in the panoramic views of Cork City. It was simply quiet breathtaking. I took my time. I spent two hours here with one of the lovely tour guides always on hand to chat with you. Alternatively you can take a multilingual audio tour. Cork has had a turbulent and colourful history and the centuries are well documented here. One of my favourite views was that of St Fin Barre’s Cathedral (1870). I always knew Cork was a low lying city, but on this day while walking the ramparts I truly witnessed this for myself.

I had arranged to meet my friend Aisling for lunch at the nearby Good Day Deli, a sustainable foods café located in the gardens of Nano Nagle Place. This was a mere seven minute walk from Elizabeth Fort via Abbey street. As I walked along this street I was taken back to my late teenage years. Friends and I would often attend céilís here. I was a mere 15 or 16 years old and was not permitted to attend discos yet, so this was our way of socialising. I arrived at Nano Nagle Place, once home to the Presentation Sisters. When I was living in Cork, it was known as South Pres, a girls secondary school. Its founder Nano Nagle, born in 1718 to a wealthy Cork family, opened 7 schools for poor children across Cork city. During this period of time in Irish history, people lived under the penal laws. This meant catholics could not attend school unless they agreed to attend Church of Ireland schools. Nano was sent to France to be educated, despite the fact that it was forbidden. Upon her return to Ireland, she began visiting poor families and for the rest of her life she dedicated herself to them.

The story that follows is long and challenging. Here at Nano Nagle Place, there is a wonderful exhibit telling this gripping story. I was met by Susannah Ahern, a large than life lady. She was welcoming, kind and animated. You could just feel that she loved what she did. Upon chatting with Susannah, I learned she was a past pupil of this school. We walked to the restored gardens, and laughed and joked about our early memories attending convent schools in Cork. I was an Ursuline student and she a Presentation student. We both agreed our time with the nuns was indeed a very special time. Perhaps that is why I have been drawn back to work with the nuns at Kylemore Abbey in Connemara, but that is a story for another day.

I have never experienced anywhere like Nano Nagle Place before. To try to define it, is tough. It is a community in every sense of the word. Once a school, the buildings have been repurposed, reused and transformed. The buildings are over 200 years old and the nuns, understanding they were in a perilous position needed to regroup and pivot. The chapel has been turned in to a heritage centre, other buildings have been regenerated and now house community groups and charities. As you walk past the waterfall and graveyard, you make your way to the wild and beautiful gardens.

There, sitting in the middle is the Good Day Deli Café. It was here I was meeting my friend for lunch. One side of this timber cafe is completed made of glass looking out onto the gardens. Owned and operated by environmentalist Clare Condon and her partner Kristin Makirere, who is from the Cook Islands, this café promises and delivers ‘healthy, local, seasonal, organic and fair trade foods with a commitment to sustainability throughout our food chain’ I think it only fair to say, I ate every last morsel on my plate. It was simply delicious. Sitting here chatting with my friend Aisling, I realised I was again surrounded by Cork accents. Local accents. I have lived in Dallas for almost 26 years and I am accustomed to being the person in the restaurant with an accent. It felt so comforting to be the same. This was because I felt at home.

rachel@RachelGaffneys.com
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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Unlikely Heroes

Priorities have changed this month for the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas. Excitement about bringing visitors to Ireland will return, but events in Europe are making her reflect on the history of the state that she now calls home - and some unlikely heroes.

A few days ago, I saw an image of two dead children lying beside the corpse of their mother in Ukraine. Somehow, writing about beautiful seaside towns and luxurious new hotels in Ireland seems inappropriate now. I know the wheels of industry must continue to turn and we can only do so much, but over the last week I feel rather numb and useless. I simply could not bring myself to write my original article about a picturesque Irish town.

I spent the first weekend of March in Austin, Texas. On the Sunday morning around 8.30am, all was quiet and there were no queues for coffee as there had been the previous day. Hardly surprising, in this young college town. Before leaving for Dallas, I wanted to stop and look at the capitol building, something I always like to do. I walked up Congress Avenue with my coffee, the humidity hinting at a looming storm. One or two eager joggers passed me but, for the most part, I was alone with my thoughts in front of this spectacular building made of Texas sunset granite. Monuments and bronze sculptures are scattered throughout the grounds. I stopped to take another sip of my coffee and, as I did so, looked up at the monument in front of me. I had stopped at the Heroes of the Alamo Monument. The Battle of the Alamo was fought on March 6, 1836.

I was standing here, 186 years later, exactly to the day. March 6, 2022. A bronze statue of a Texan holding a rifle stands atop this monument. Inscribed beneath are the names of defenders of the Alamo (Alamo is located in San Antonio). This was a short battle, 13 days in all and not the winning battle (that was the Battle of San Jacinto) but all in all a pivotal battle. Almost 200 men died and, of the 200, 12 were Irish born and another 14 had Irish surnames.

I tell this little story as the numbers and names may seem small and insignificant but thinking about what Ukraine is going through, we are reminded again of the importance of heart and determination. So, back to the Battle of the Alamo. On this fateful day, in March 1836, General Santa Anna had recaptured the Alamo.

Yet only a month later, on April 21, the Commander of the Texas army, Sam Houston led his troops in a surprise attack on the Mexican troops. Oh and it is important to note the Mexican army outnumbered Texas, by two to one. I mentioned the Irish who died at the Alamo, indeed another 100 (who made up a seventh of the Texas army) died at the Battle of San Jacinto. As they charged they shouted the rallying cry “Remember the Alamo!” The battle lasted 18 minutes. Their independence was secured for another 10 years, before becoming a state in 1845.

For years leading up to these battles, another little known Irish man played a very important role in the formation of Texas. His name was Fr Michael Muldoon. He was born in the Diocese of Kilmore in County Cavan in 1780. He moved to Spain and studied in the Irish College in Seville, where he learned to speak Spanish. By 1812 he had moved to Monterey, Mexico. In the 1820’s Stephen F Austin was a key figure in the colonization of Texas. If it wasn’t for the relationship between these two men there might not have been an Austin, Texas as we know it today.

In 1833, Austin was imprisoned for a year and a half in a Mexican jail for inciting insurrection against Mexico. Articles and history books mention his release from prison in 1835, but rarely do you hear the vital information relating to the time prior to his release. During this time, he was in solitary confinement and the only person permitted to visit him was his old friend Fr Michael Muldoon, who had first met Austin in Mexico city in 1822 and taught him Spanish. Later, in April 1831, Fr Muldoon moved to Texas at Austin’s request and insistence. Catholicism was Mexico’s religion and therefore colonists were required to be baptised Catholic in order to own land. Fr Muldoon lived in Texas for a while, carrying out many baptismal ceremonies and weddings. He was known for his love of food and drink and was considered a liberal priest. Muldoon was back in Mexico when Austin was imprisoned. He took money, food and writing materials to his friend. Fr Muldoon also had a good relationship with General Santa Anna and campaigned tirelessly for his friend’s release.

Stephen F Austin was released from prison on Christmas Day 1834. But Fr Muldoon was also imprisoned, as he was seen by Mexico to be Pro-Texas. To this day, no-one knows how he died. There is a grave marked in honour of Fr Michael Muldoon, in Hostyn Texas, a 4-hour drive south of Dallas. Most people will probably pass through or pass by and not notice or know, but one thing is certain, this man from Cavan made a difference and, in his own way, helped secure Texas independence.

Today the world watches as another unlikely man in Ukraine, a former actor and comedian, stands up for what is right and good and inspires us all.

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Rachel Gaffney's Letter From Texas - Killaloe - Fit For a King

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares her experience of a return visit to a special place, on the mighty River Shannon.

It felt as though I had stumbled upon a secret place, a place no-one else really knew about and it thrilled me. Feeling something does not make it true but the feeling was still powerfully real. I had enjoyed a lovely lunch that day with my good friend Eamonn Cregan in his hometown of Killaloe, County Clare. Sadly, Wood Brothers Bistro is no longer in business, but it was owned by Keith Wood, former captain of the Irish rugby team. I recall this day vividly, it was a gloriously sunny July day in 2014. As wonderful as it was to have lunch with these two interesting and funny gentlemen, what I never forgot was the drive over the bridge from Killaloe in Co. Clare to Ballina in Co. Tipperary. It was when I drove over this bridge that I felt I had discovered this secret place. Although I was on a tight schedule, I simply had to park my car, sit on the low wall and drink in this vista. I took a photograph and vowed to return. I had to know more, I had to experience more. Killaloe had left me wanting more.

It took me six years to keep this promise to myself but I did return on August 11, 2020. It was, of course, the height of the pandemic and I was not booking any travel but this was the time for me to explore and learn more. I spent two nights in this magical and idyllic part of Ireland. The Lakeside Hotel sits on the banks of the River Shannon and it was here I stayed, in one of their waterfront rooms overlooking the river. These rooms are set in their own building but only steps away from the hotel. Upon arrival, I opened the sliding doors and stepped out to my private balcony. Boats pulled up and moored beneath me and I could hear a variety of Irish accents. Children scurried about in brightly coloured life jackets carrying small buckets and fishing nets. Blissfully unaware of these Covid times, their joy and laughter was the perfect antidote for what ailed and stressed us all. Families sat on the decks with glasses of wine and cheese plates, grapes and freshly baked breads from local bakeries. It was truly a summer eve in Ireland. I could have sat there all day but I had committed to exploring this area.

The following morning I had an early start. Mist completely blanketed Lough Derg. I drove back over the Killaloe Bridge, which dates back to the times of Brian Boru, circa 1013 and made my way to meet Gerard Madden, Ireland’s leading authority on Inis Cealtra or Holy Island (and indeed other islands) We took the short boat ride across Lough Derg to this ancient monastic site. The mist and fog began to lift as we disembarked and I noticed the dew drops dangling from the blades of grass like drop earrings. We were completely alone. It had been a long time since I had experienced such a welcome silence. In 1837 it was referred to as “the island of seven churches” This early monastic site dates back to the seventh century. I spent a few hours on this island with Ger, listening to his stories and learning about the previous inhabitants of this holy island. The round tower, perfectly preserved ascends 23 meters above ground level.

Returning from Inis Cealtra, I drove the short distance to the ring fort, once the seat of Brian Boru, the most famous High King of Ireland. You can easily understand how this site was chosen as it had the perfect view of the River Shannon, protecting them from Viking Invaders. Killaloe was the Capital of Ireland between 1002 and 1014. If you love to walk then staying in this area is an absolute must. On this day I hiked and stopped at the top, taking in the magnificent view of Clare and Tipperary beneath me. There are so many trails from easy to difficult in this area.

As I was staying for two nights, I managed to find time to kayak on Lough Derg and spend an hour swimming. Thoroughly invigorated by my activities, I visited Áine Knitwear’s gorgeous shop, located in the tourist office. Sisters Anne and Teresa Behan established Áine in 2018, promoting the very best of Irish craftsmanship and heritage. We sat outside overlooking the River Shannon and enjoyed a coffee and cake basking in the afternoon sunshine.
As we sat, I looked over at the Killaloe Bridge and noted that it was this bridge I had driven over in 2014 that brought me back to this town of Killaloe, a town truly fit for a King.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas recalls an enjoyably relaxing experience when travelling solo last summer - it was Irish hospitality at its best. Solo travel has been on the increase since the pandemic and, with places like this to stay, that must be set to continue.

The chandelier was the first thing that caught my eye upon entering the castle. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon in late August and I had just driven from Dublin. The drive was an easy one, a couple of hours on the M4 and I had arrived at Kilronan Castle in County Roscommon. I had wanted to visit this castle for quite some time and was delighted to carve out a couple of days to visit this enchanting place.

Kilronan Castle, formerly known as Castle Tennison, was built in the 1700’s. In the 1800’s the Earl of Kingston built the gothic revival castle adjacent to the older building. In 1896, it had fallen in to disrepair and the eighth Earl died. The following year, the ninth Earl married Ethel Walker, daughter of a wealthy brewer from Liverpool, and with her came a very handsome dowry which helped Kilronan return to its former glory.

I couldn’t help but ask about the chandelier suspended over the intricately carved reception desk. I wondered if it was Irish crystal. I was determined to find out. I checked in to my room, set my bag down and immediately turned around and walked back outside to enjoy a walk on the estate. The long summer evenings in Ireland make you feel somehow as though you are getting more out of your day (probably because you are!)

There were a few walking trail options. I took the lakeside loop, a brisk 2km walk to the shore of Lough Meelagh and back through a wooded path to the castle. I was the only person on this walk. The only sounds were of the wood pigeon in the distance and the lapping waters along the shoreline and I loved every solitary minute of it.

As I was alone, I asked if I could dine by the window in the Drawing Room. What followed was not what I expected from this property. The service was probably some of the very best I had experienced over several weeks in Ireland that summer. The food was delicious, which made the whole evening perfect. I retired to my room and before my head hit the pillow on my four-poster bed, I was asleep. Breakfast the following morning was served in the Douglas Hyde Restaurant, a beautiful room named after Ireland’s first president and Roscommon’s most famous son, Douglas Hyde.

Crisp white linens, silver, freshly brewed coffee, simple flowers from the garden and a view out to the estate and I was not in a hurry to leave. The food was lovely but even lovelier was the lady serving me. Her name was Mary. I wish I had taken the time to ask her surname. Mary reminded me of how Irish hospitality should be done. Before I had a chance to ask for more coffee, or toast, she was there. Her warmth and local knowledge made me feel good.

I was still wondering about the provenance of the chandelier. It was French. A truly magnificent crystal chandelier and equally spectacular stained glass windows make this reception area impressive.

The sun was shining, yes it was shining and hot too. I walked around the estate again and when I returned I noticed the really quaint Tunnel Café, emerging from a stone pathway beneath the trees. As I enjoyed a creamy latte, the couple next to me began chatting to me and they told me about their travels around Texas and Tennessee. They suggested I visit Drumshambo, home of Gunpowder Irish Gin from the neighboring county of Leitrim. I had time and so I visited. But that is a story for another day.

I stay in a lot of hotels. From luxurious hotels to beach hotels, castles to country houses and city hotels to family run hotels. One can be very misled by star ratings. Kilronan Castle is special. While I was there, I felt welcome. I felt relaxed. After all, when it comes to hospitality, shouldn’t it always be about how it makes you feel? I think Kilronan Castle is a property to watch and my sincerest wish is they continue going from success to success.

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* Kilronan Castle is the current Georgina Campbell 4 Star Hotel of the Year (Georgina Campbell’s Irish Food & Hospitality Awards 2022

Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - From The Curious Mind Of PJ Rigney

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas recalls an unexpectedly interesting visit to Co Leitrim last summer

As I enjoyed a creamy latte, the couple next to me began chatting to me and they told me about their travels around Texas and Tennessee. They suggested I visit Drumshambo, home of Gunpowder Irish Gin from the neighbouring county of Leitrim. I had time and so I visited.

I was staying at Kilronan Castle in county Roscommon when I met the couple above. This is how I like to conduct my research when I visit Ireland as it is the truest and purest form. Taking time to sit and connect with locals is both enjoyable and informative. I knew the Gunpowder Irish Gin well. It was the blue bottle that drew me in at first when purchasing it here in Dallas.

I will be the first to admit, visiting distilleries is not top of my list of
things to do. I am just not terribly interested as there are so many other things I like to do. But I was a mere 15 minutes drive from The Shed Distillery in county Leitrim and my job is to seek out experiences for my clients. If I haven’t stayed or visited, then I will not recommend to them.

So, I pulled up to the Distillery, parked and walked inside, with no expectations. I did not pre book a tour which I recommend you do. I was in the area and decided to simply drop by. That being said, I was in luck and was able to secure a tour of the distillery.

The town of Drumshambo is located at the southern end of Lough Allen, the first of the larger lakes at the top of the River Shannon. A small town that many tourists miss, because they are in a hurry, or they simply do not know about it. Either way, Drumshambo is worthy of a visit. If you are fortunate to be around Lough Allen when the water level is low, you should be able to see crannogs, the ancient dwellings from pre Christian Ireland.

But back to a newer dwelling in Drumshambo, The Shed Distillery. Upon entering you are welcomed by glass ceilings, brightly coloured furniture, and aesthetically
beautiful colour schemes, you might be forgiven for thinking you entered an interior designer’s emporium. I have always been attracted to cobalt blue, (so much so my company colours are cobalt blue) and the blue hues in the decor around the Honey Badger Bar simply drew me in like a moth to a flame!

They have five pot stills, three for whiskey and two for gin. I had always wondered where the name, Gunpowder Irish Gin had come from. Gunpowder tea is one of the botanicals used in the gin. A clerk back in the 19th century noticed the pearl tea leaves from China, were rolled so tightly, they resembled grains of gunpowder.
And as for the Curious Mind of PJ Rigney, the founder of Drumshambo? Well, when you visit the Drumshambo website www.drumshanbogunpowderirishgin.com and click on ‘The
Botanical Trail’ tab, you will see for yourself.

A visit to The Shed Distillery will certainly awaken your senses, pique your curiosity and ignite the creative within you.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas relishes the quiet elegance of a small hotel with American connections on Dublin’s most famous Georgian square.

People collect and love all sorts of weird and wonderful things. From vintage cookbooks, stamps and antiques to old postcards and comics. We are also drawn to certain colours and items for reasons we do not fully understand, but it doesn’t really matter if it gives us pleasure and joy. I have a love and obsession for doors for as long as I can remember. Someone asked me once if I knew why and something did immediately come to mind. Doors are portals of discovery for me. House doors, gates, cupboard doors and more, but I digress.
The Georgian doors of Dublin, now here are some beautiful doors, but do you ever wonder what’s really behind them? I do, all the time.
During my most recent trip to Ireland, I visited Stauntons On The Green, an hotel overlooking St Stephens Green in Dublin. The Iveagh Gardens are located to the rear and the wonderful Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI) - with its artisan treats at The Commons Café Tue-Sun, 10.30am-5pm) - is next door.
Billed ‘For An Elegant Stay in Dublin’, it is indeed an elegant property and perfect for those who wish to stay in Dublin city centre. The furnishing are soft and timeless and it is surprisingly quiet for a city centre hotel. But what really caught my attention and piqued my interest was the connection between this property and the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago. In 1879 the Nickerson family began building their home, following the loss of their previous one in the great fire of Chicago, and completed it in 1883. This was during America’s ‘Gilded Age’. In 2003, the property was purchased and meticulously restored by financier Richard H. Driehaus and, in 2008, The Richard H. Driehaus Museum was opened to the public. Driehaus was known for his love of art, architecture and design. He was an avid collector, but more importantly he dearly wanted to share this with the public.
In 2017, this remarkable man acquired Stauntons On The Green. Expect many delights when walking around the property, down to the smallest of details - I noticed, for example, that the numbered plates on each bedroom door are made by Belleek. As you descend the stairs, there are views overlooking the courtyard gardens and the walls are adorned with watercolours by Marc Velten and oil paintings by Irish painter William Crampton Gore, to name but a few. At the end of one of the corridors on the ground floor is a magnificent stained glass window, The Blessed Julie and Two Children by renowned Irish stained glass artist, Harry Clarke (see right). Sadly Richard H. Driehaus passed away in 2021 but his love of art, architecture and design and his love for sharing it with the public lives on here in Stauntons On The Green.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Doolin

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is always planning for the groups she’ll bring to Ireland. This summer she took more time than usual over her research in Co Clare, around Doolin and the Aran Islands – and it was time well spent.

I have visited the Cliffs of Moher many times. I have dined in the village of Lisdoonvarna many times. Yet, each and every time, I was merely passing through, always on my way to some other town or county, never really taking my own advice and spending time in the area.

So this summer I booked a room at Fiddle & Bow Hotel in the village of Doolin, County Clare, a mere 8km from The Cliffs of Moher.

‘Let all the world ferment
There things are permanent
You’ll wonder where your troubles went
way below in Doolin’
Verse from poem by Seamus McGrath (uncle of Evan Butler, Sales Director, Trump Doonbeg)

I was heading to Caherconnell Stone Fort and Sheepdog Demonstrations. The narrow and winding roads unfurled before me. Ferns and fuchsia swayed and crawled over the low stone walls. The radio was on and I sang like no one was listening (and thankfully they were not!) It was a delight. I love to drive these roads. I think when I die, I would like to return as Formula 1 driver. I digress.

Caherconnell Stone Fort exceeded my expectations. This is always a good thing. Here I was, out in what seems like, the middle of nowhere and there before my eyes was, not only a family owned farm but an enormous 1,000 year old Fort. The farm and all the surrounding land is owned and operated by the Davoren family. I was greeted by father and son, John and Michael Davoren. Michael took me on a tour of the fort and I learned about all the important archaeological digs and partnership they have with visiting archaeologists. This was followed by a sheepdog demonstration to beat all demonstrations.

My visit really and truly deserves an article all by itself so for now, all I can advise is that you go to their website and plan a visit to Caherconnell. Please visit. You will not be disappointed, but please, allow at least 3 hours. This is not a drive by attraction. It deserves your time and full attention.

From here I made my way to my hotel. It took a leisurely half hour to reach my destination. Upon entering the lobby, I was immediately struck by how they had indeed brought the outdoors inside and the decor reflected the mood of the area. The decor was bright, clean and neutral. Vases with large branches adorned the table. Wicker baskets were filled with Voya products from nearby County Sligo, Geometry roasted coffee beans from Galway and Cashmere hats and gloves from Ekkotree Cashmere Knitwear in Doolin to name but a few. It was a beautifully curated collection and I knew I had to learn more about Ekotree (which I did 2 days later!)

Later that evening, I was meeting a friend and together we wandered down to the village to see where we could eat. Ordinarily I would book restaurants in advance for my clients, but on this particular night we were both conducting our own research so we were looking at everything. After crossing over the iconic bridge in the village, we happened on The Ivy Cottage. We were in luck, we managed to get a table for two. Set back off the magically lit courtyard, this little restaurant did not disappoint. The food was simply delicious. By this, I do mean simple and delicious. My favourite kind of food, great ingredients done well.

I meandered back to my hotel and admittedly I was too tired to visit one of the many pubs. Most people would regard Doolin as the home of traditional Irish music. As I walked past the pubs, it was clear the sessions were just getting started in these pubs, but alas, my bed was beckoning me.

Breakfast the next morning was just wonderful. I particularly loved their individual pots of overnight oats, my new favourite item to have when I visit Ireland. After a fresh pot of coffee and two poached eggs on toast, I was ready to make my way to Doolin Pier, to take the ferry to Inis Mór, (the largest of the three Aran Islands). I was lucky. Extremely lucky. The day was bright and the seas were calm. The 45-minute crossing with Doolin Ferry Company was so easy and enjoyable. We arrived around 11am. More stone walls, a lot more stone walls, opened up before us. Memories came flooding back as the last time I had visited was in 1990. It was as if time had stood still. Nothing had changed, yet some things had changed. The juxtaposition of the sight of the famine walls, along with the menu behind said wall for oat milk lattes, signified change has also arrived on this island.

Four of us walked to the top of Dún Aonghasa, the stone fort perilously perched atop a sheer cliff. This fort is over 3,000 years old. We stopped for lunch in the pretty thatched cottage café, Teach Nan Phaidi and I finished off my afternoon with a swim at Kilmurvy Beach, which overlooks Galway Bay. Before boarding the last ferry, a stop at the coffee hut was a must for us all. As we sailed further and further away from Inis Mór, I stood and watched and thought, yet again, I did not have enough time on this island. I would return (And I did, 2 weeks later.)

The following day I was driving to Cork, but was not in a hurry. Remember I mentioned Ekotree earlier on? The sumptuously soft hats and gloves just spoke to me. I wanted to visit this design studio and so I did. This is an example of a very luxurious sustainable brand. All the fibres are dyed using plants, herbs and berries. The genius behind the brand is Diarmuid Neilan. He is passionate about the environment and it shows. I knew I had to buy some gloves for my clients. These would be the perfect to give them when they boarded the ferry to the Aran islands. I purchased them, had them packaged nicely and two weeks later, when all 10 of us boarded the ferry for Inis Mór, the sun was splitting the stones. Ah well, the thought was there and they now had a souvenir from Doolin, something that told them this small village definitely punches way above its weight.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Top Visitor Destination Requests

January is behind me and it has been a very busy month, designing and booking trips to Ireland. Looking at the many itineraries, I can’t help but notice that the routes are all fairly similar, despite my best efforts to guide people in different directions.
There are many reasons for this.

During my initial conversation with a new client, I always ask them if there are any particular places they would really like to visit. Invariably they all list the same places. They want to visit some castles, they like history and culture and then they proceed to list The Cliffs Of Moher and The Ring of Kerry as two places they want to visit. When I ask them why they wish to visit these places, they tell me their friends told them about them or it’s what they have seen and heard over the years. Now, don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against either of these locations but I would not be doing my job properly if I were not suggesting other destinations.
Next, if your flight options are limited to flying in and out of Dublin, then this immediately handcuffs me with their itinerary. Lately, I have been suggesting to my clients from Texas to take the American Airlines Flight from Dallas Fort Worth to London, from London to Cork and to fly back to Texas on the direct flight from Dublin. This gives me a lot more scope with their itinerary.

In the last month, I have booked hotels in Dublin, Kilkenny, Kinsale, Kenmare, Dingle, Doonbeg, Doolin and Co Galway. It’s a route that makes sense but I can’t help but feel that I would really like to be sending more business to different locations.
We have done such a wonderful job over the years of promoting The Ring of Kerry, Waterford Crystal, Blarney Castle, The Cliffs of Moher and The Guinness Storehouse, that these locations are firmly embedded in people’s minds. Some people are very receptive and open to different routes, sights and locations but others suffer from FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) It’s almost as if I suggested to them that when they visit Paris, they could give the Eiffel Tower a miss!

Of course I am not trying to stop anyone from visiting any of these locations (as can be seen by the locations booked above) but I am trying to introduce and suggest alternatives. I think this is something that will take time. The more people who go off piste, the more they will share these positive experiences with others.

This year, for example, I will be sending more people to stay in Doolin than I did last year. There is one simple reason for this. I recently visited Doolin for two nights and explored and discovered so much more than I expected. If you are going to visit the Aran Islands and are unable to stay there overnight, then you owe it to yourself to stay in Doolin. I like to arrange for my clients to take a ferry from Doolin to Inis Mór for the day and then take a different ferry across Galway Bay to Rossaveel. My clients have drivers so I arrange for the driver to drop them off and then meet them later in the day in Rosaveel. By doing things like this, it means they get to see a lot more and I can then send them to stay at Ballynahinch Castle for a couple of days.

The Tourist Board has done a wonderful job introducing people to The Wild Atlantic Way, in particular. Perhaps we need another movie or novel featuring one of the lesser frequented towns - or perhaps it will just take a little more time before people come to me and tell me that Lough Oughter and Killaloe are the places the want to visit.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - A Festival of Gardens and Nature

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas introduces an exciting new garden event that’s taking place this April at Ballintubbert House & Gardens in County Laois

As Catherine Fitzgerald’s voice flowed through the phone, her excitement was palpable. She continued, to tell me that she and Minnie Preston (proprietor of Ballintubbert House & Gardens) had attended numerous garden symposiums over the years. Whilst they cherished these events, they couldn’t help but feel there was something missing, a sense of inclusivity and accessibility that would welcome everyone, from seasoned gardeners to complete novices. “We dreamed of hosting an alternative event” Catherine explained, her words brimming with passion. “A festival for nature lovers, a meeting of minds interested in gardens and the natural world, a place to share ideas, explore and connect. And so, she and Minnie put their heads down and, after two solid weeks of work, emails and phone calls, they have managed to pull off quite the inaugural Festival this coming April. Catherine said it was amazing that they managed to get so many people in such a short time. Somehow the gods were with them.

Ballintubbert House in County Laois is located between the village of Stradbally and the town of Athy. Built in 1725, this restored Georgian home is associated with Poet Laureate Cecil Day-Lewis and was also home to the acclaimed actor Sir John Hurt. This spectacular home and organic gardens gardens will serve as the custodian of this festival’s creativity.

On Saturday, April 20, the festival will open with a conversation between Colm O’Driscoll, the head gardener at Lismore Castle, County Waterford, Neil Porteous, expert consultant gardener for The National Trust and Catherine Fitzgerald from Glin Castle, County Limerick, also an expert landscape architect. As Catherine continued to share the lineup of speakers for this festival, her enthusiasm only grew, “…and Shane Connolly will be coming too!” I had heard Shane speak a few years ago here in Dallas, and his easygoing, fun way of sharing flower arranging techniques was contagious. I still remember his philosophy of “No Floral Foam” You will have to read or follow him on Instagram to learn more, (@Shaneconnollyandco) Shane is a renowned floral designer and he is perhaps best known for his public work for the Royal Family, recently including The Coronation. Seamus O’Brien is one of Ireland’s most outstanding modern day plantsmen, renowned throughout Ireland and the UK. He is the Head Gardener at Kilmacurragh Botanical Gardens, where he manages one of the most beautiful and diverse natural meadows in Ireland. Dermot will offer tips on creating a meadow at home.

For something completely different, Catherine’s husband, actor Dominic West (who played Prince Charles in Season 5 of The Crown) will be talking with David Pagan Butler, a pioneer in natural pools. Seventeen years ago, David was the first to construct a DIY Natural Pool. During lockdown, Dominic built a natural swimming pool with his help. I’m pretty sure their conversation will be both fun and inspiring, although I doubt that I’ll be replacing my own pool here in Dallas!
“And there’s more Rachel” Catherine continued, barely able to contain her excitement. "Cath Kidston is joining us too. She will be talking with The Burren Perfumery’s very own Sadie Chowen, about scent and its evocative power." By now, I was more than ready to purchase my ticket. I have always known Catherine to be nothing but effervescent when discussing gardens. I could feel her passion for nature and gardening radiating through the phone. Cook Rory O’Connell, co-founder of Ballymaloe Cookery School, will talk with Tom Petherick, an expert on sustainable living and biodynamics, and Kate Gatacre, a no-dig organic vegetable grower for London restaurants, will chew the cud on the relationship between the cook and the grower.

There are many more experts sharing their knowledge and advice over this weekend, too many to list here in this short article. Catherine’s love for gardens and nature throughout the island of Ireland is infectious and it is for that very reason that she and Minnie Preston work so well together. Although I will only have arrived in the country the night before, that did not stop me from purchasing my ticket for Saturday. I do not, thankfully, suffer from that dreaded FOMO (Fear of Missing Out), but I do want to be part of this collective energy and maybe do my part to be a guardian of our environment. Who else will join me there? Please let me know if you plan on attending andwe can meet up for coffee. To learn more and to purchase your tickets, click on this link https://festivalofgardensandnature.com/

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Why Do You Stay There?

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is thinking history this month…A ‘Culturally Curious’ traveller herself, she wonders how – and why - we decide on staying at a particular hotel. For some, perhaps, it’s to “…visit the past, enjoy the present and look forward to the future”. And her comments on Queen Victoria’s 1861 visit to Killarney are especially relevant now, as we mark the 10th anniversary of a modern tourism game-changer, the Wild Atlantic Way.

When we are looking for somewhere to stay, how do we choose our hotels? Are we influenced by travel magazines and awards? By bloggers and writers who stay there for free and tell us what an incredible property it is? Do we take our friends’ advice? Do we ask a travel agent, or do we do our own research? No matter how we decide, the next, and probably more important question is, why do we decide on this particular hotel? Location will always be an important factor, so let’s put this answer to one side. In this article, I am talking about my why and not my clients’ why.
Sneem, a village in County Kerry, approximately one hour from Killarney and half an hour from Kenmare, has a population of 288 people (as of 2016 census). One could be forgiven for simply stopping to take a few photographs, taking time to enjoy some lunch and visiting a few shops. However, this little corner of the Iveragh Peninsula is steeped in history and architecture, not to mention the sheer beauty of the peninsula itself.

Reverend James Bland moved from Yorkshire in northern England to County Kerry in 1692 and was the Vicar of Killarney. His son, Nathaniel Bland obtained a land grant in 1732 and this would become the Derryquin Estate, overlooking Kenmare Bay. It was here that the Bland family built Derryquin Castle, a three-storey main block with a four-storey octagonal tower rising through the centre. The earliest known record of this castle was documented by Alexander Nimmo in his 1812 map of the area. The great architect, James Franklin Fuller was born in Sneem in 1835 and it will become clearer later why I mention his birth. During the years that followed, a lot was happening in Ireland, namely the great famine of 1841-1851.
In 1849, despite the ravages of the famine, Great Southern & Western Railway Lines were laying tracks between Dublin, Cork, Galway and Wexford. In 1853, Killarney saw the arrival of the line from Dublin and, with it, came the opening a year later of a new and grand hotel, called ‘The Great Southern Hotel Killarney’.
This is why Killarney is regarded as the birthplace of Irish tourism.
But a few years later something, or rather someone, would put Killarney firmly on the map forever and that person was Queen Victoria. During her lifetime, she visited Ireland four times and it was her third visit, to Killarney for three nights in August 1861, that opened the floodgates for Irish tourism.
As tourism was burgeoning in Killarney, Kenmare became the terminus of the branch line in 1893. The land on the Derryquin Estate was sold off in lots and some was sold to Great Southern so they could build another hotel. And who do you think the architect was? Yes, it was none other than Sneem born, James Franklin Fuller. The Great Southern Parknasilla Resort opened its doors on the 1st May 1895. Fuller is one of Ireland’s pre eminent architects. You may not be familiar with his name, but I know you will be familiar with his work: Kylemore Abbey in Connemara, Ashford Castle in County Mayo and Farmleigh House in Dublin to name but a few.

Today, Parknasilla Resort is a 4 star hotel set amidst 500 acres overlooking Kenmare Bay, and I had the opportunity to visit last year. Parknasilla means ‘The Field of The Willows’. Whilst the hotel offers a spa, golf and tennis, it was the landscape that drew me like a moth to a flame. Walking the path below the hotel, I could hear the waves lapping along the shoreline and the birds singing around me. Although the beauty of the pink rhododendron is captivating, we must spare a thought for our ancient oak trees being swallowed up here and around the country from these invasive thickets. Walking through a tree canopied path, it led to a quiet cove. I sat on the rocks and listened. The birdsong was so varied, I only wish I knew what birds I was hearing. There were just so many sounds.
Sadly, during the turbulent times of the Irish War of Independence, Derryquin castle was attacked and burned to the ground in 1922. Whilst walking the ‘Castle Trail’ it led me to all that remains of this bygone era and a magnificent 360-degree view of Kenmare Bay. I thought of all those who had gone before me and how I was enjoying the same view as the Bland Family did in the 18th century. We are all just passing through. As I walked, I inhaled the sea air deeply and could not help but notice the unmistakable scent of freshly cut grass. The apple trees were blossoming in the walled gardens, promising a plentiful bounty. The old castle walls now formed a protective barrier from the elements for the chefs’ kitchen garden. Kale, cabbages and courgettes (zucchini) salad mixes and spinach along with a wide variety of herbs were all planted beneath the safe shelter of these walls, benefitting from the salt sea spray and the temperate influences of the Gulf Stream.
I made my way back to the hotel, but stopped again briefly to sit on one of the many benches throughout the estate. As I sat, I was looking across a cove to the hotel. On the pier beneath children were out crabbing. Nothing had changed since I was a child. Or at least in this moment. They dangled string with limpets peeled from the rocks to use as bait for the crabs below. Buckets, all lined up in eager anticipation for their catch. There were no phones or iPads in sight. They were simply children playing. Shrieking when one caught something, only to have their hopes dashed when it was but a piece of seaweed.
There were and are many people linked to, or related, to this Estate. Sir Christopher Bland, former chair of the BBC until 2001, happened upon a photograph of his ancestors and Derryquin Castle inspired him to write the novel ‘Ashes in The Wind’. Former Prime Minister, David Cameron is a descendant of Nathaniel Bland who first developed the land back in 1732. Walking the halls and public areas of the hotel, there are clues and nods to its past all around you. For some, it’s a place to come to stay, relax, dine, enjoy the spa and return home. For me, it’s a place to visit the past, enjoy the present and look forward to the future.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Ireland�s Most Luxurious Outdoor Suites

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas is smitten by The Woodland Suite Experience at The Montenotte Hotel in Cork City.

Pea and mint soup, a simple and straightforward dish, but when made with the freshest and finest ingredients can create a soup that is not only refreshing but also deeply flavourful as was the bowl I was enjoying last month while visiting The Montenotte Hotel in Cork City. I have always loved this simple form of dining. I’ll let you into a little secret. For years, I have judged hotels and restaurants on the soup they serve me. You see, the soup tells me a lot about the establishment. Can they get the simple things right? Can they tend to the basics? If they cannot, then all the marketing and high thread count sheets simply do not matter.
I was having lunch with my brother in the Panorama Restaurant and Terrace perched above Cork City overlooking the River Lee. I remember commenting to him how much I was enjoying the soup and that it was a good sign. On this rainy day in May, below us and beyond the Victorian gardens, workmen scurried about pushing wheelbarrows in a wooded area. They were working hard to meet an August 1st deadline as, earlier this year, The Montenotte unveiled their plans for The Woodland Suite Experience. This experience will be the first of its kind in Ireland.
Nine Woodland Suites and River Suites, as well as an exclusive residents only Clubhouse will set a new standard for luxury accommodation in Ireland. Each suite is nestled within the natural beauty of the Irish landscape and elegantly perched on the hilltop, with stunning views overlooking the River Lee and Cork Harbour
With an investment of over €7.5 million, The Montenotte’s Woodland Suite Experience are set to be Ireland’s most luxurious outdoor suites.
Each accommodation style provides a unique cocoon and evocative space, emanating restorative wanderlust, understated luxury, adventure and bespoke authenticity. Adding to these carefully curated and designed suites, the private Clubhouse serves as the exclusive gathering spot for guests of the Woodland Suite Experience to immerse themselves in culinary experiences, unwind with a good book or savour a coffee or crafted cocktail in elegance and complete privacy.
The design of the suites will encourage guests to immerse themselves in nature and take in the surrounding woodlands, just moments away from the vibrancy of the city.
“We have put much thought into crafting this new haven and consideration on how we want to contribute to our local community as we move forward as not just an urban resort, but an urban resort with integrity” explain Frankie and Jo Whelehan, owners of the Montenotte. They have partnered with the Irish charity Hometree to launch a ‘Nights-for-Nature’ tree planting initiative. For every stay at the Woodland Suite Experience, a tree will be planted in honour of the guests, to support the conservation of Ireland’s woodlands, promote land regeneration, and enhance biodiversity.
The restrained material palette includes American oak joinery and natural silver travertine floors, contrasted with seamless bronze mirrored wall finishes. The surrounding walls reflect delicate putty tones with earthy accents and custom rice paper screens are used to diffuse daylight into a soft glow. The Woodland Suite Experience’s design embodies a dreamlike fusion of elevated minimalism personified with a nod to Scandinavian architecture and the interior artistry of Japanese design principles to fuel a modern, simplified yet chic ethos.

For more information or to book, please visit https://www.themontenottehotel.com/the-woodland-suite-experience/

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - The Slea Head Drive

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas reflects on time spent at home in Ireland last summer – and what it is that keeps people coming back

This year, I spent 12 weeks visiting, touring and experiencing parts known and unknown in Ireland. Some places have the ability to draw me back repeatedly and The Dingle Peninsula is one such place.

The Slea Head Drive is arguably, one of the most dramatic and truly breathtaking drives in Ireland. This drive is not for the faint of heart. During the summer months, tour buses pass effortlessly along, while tourists who drive themselves, feel like it is a death defying feat! When taking this drive you are advised and urged to travel clockwise, beginning in Dingle, thus avoiding the arduous task of squeezing by the tour buses. The drive is 47km (29 miles) long and begins and ends in Dingle. I returned this summer and over the course of a few days, drove the Slea Head Drive, stopping only at one or two locations each day.

The panoramic views are so stunning, that stopping to take it all in, is a must. The summer days were a little wetter and colder this year, but on this particular day in August, I had sunshine and a blue sky. Leaving the town of Dingle behind, I drove for approximately fifteen minutes to Ventry.

Seeing the sign for the ‘Fairy Ringfort’, I pulled in to the little lay-by, parked my car and walked across the narrow road to pay for our tickets. I was with family and it seemed like the perfect spot for my niece and nephew to run around. The Fairy Fort is a mystical and enchanting place, sitting on a gentle rise, with sweeping views of the surrounding lush green fields and hills overlooking the waters of Ventry Bay. The family who own this land charged a nominal fee, I really cannot remember how much it was. The landowner greeted us at his little hut and two goats clambered about us. Sheep wandered by. Donkeys, ponies and alpacas walked to the fence as if on cue, as they knew the recycled butter tubs we were holding were filled with food.
My niece gingerly put out her hand to feed the donkeys and soon noticed the horses were the alpha animals behind this fence. Sheep roamed around this windswept location, clambering over the ancient fort and ancient stones. This fort is one of many ring forts scattered across Ireland, but not all are as accessible as this one. These ring forts have weathered centuries of history and, standing there amidst the sheep, I could not help but feel connected to the past, or at least I thought of the past and wondered what and who had stood here before me. This land held memories and experiences deep beneath the roots and rocks. The folklore surrounding these forts is rich and locals respect the land, believing disturbing such places could bring bad luck and anger the fairies.
As we walked through hedgerows, the feisty goats followed eager to be fed. They were not shy and quite a few exhibited bad manners, nudging and pushing us, urging us to feed them. My niece and nephew were, at times, a little unsure. They went from experiencing great joy and excitement to a healthy trepidation. But, as soon as a new group of people arrived, the goats left, knowing there was a fresh source of food.
I climbed to the top, taking in the ocean in the distance. There’s a sense of magic that lingers in this place. The land has a quiet pull on you, and it’s as if you know it’s a sacred place, a place to be enjoyed and respected.

We drove back towards Dingle and a brightly coloured house caught my eye. It was mustard with cobalt blue window frames. The sign outside said ‘Café Eile’
The sound of the gravel driveway crunched beneath the tyres as I parked the car. After a few hours at the Ring Fort, my sister-in-law and I felt we had both earned a nice latte.
The café is located a few minutes drive from the fort. I chatted with the owners, Jen and her partner Dubhaltach (Dulta is the anglicised version) They told me they had recently moved here with their two year-old son and this was a new business venture for them. They have chosen quite the spot. They call it ‘Bakery Eile’. Eile is the Irish word for other. All of their baked goods are homemade and plant based. It is such a cheery place with offerings such as, Zingy Lemon - Raspberry Cake, Almond & Orange Blondies, Carrot Cake, Chai Lattes, Orange Almond Cinnamon Buns and organic coffee.
Jen and Dulta, started this new venture during the winter of 2023. She began with her plant based cupcakes and from there the offerings grew. Dulta is a trained chef and they opened the café this summer. I was delighted to meet them both when I visited. My youngest niece was not yet walking and Jen immediately recognised the need for a booster seat. She disappeared for a few minutes and came back with some of her son’s toys to keep my niece amused. Outside the front of the café are a few picnic benches and beyond that there is a wild grassy area complete with an ancient standing stone. The kids ran around and met some people from Washington State and Wyoming. We chatted and shared travel recommendations with each other.
This hospitality and friendliness is what keeps people coming back to Ireland. Meeting the real people and spending time with them.
On this day, my sister and law and I did not drive more than 10km along the Slea Head Drive. We experienced and enjoyed so much. This landscape that has been here for centuries before us, this tranquil and wild landscape, this landscape with ever changing light, this landscape that will be around for centuries after us is beckoning you to visit, inviting you to stop and stay a while.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas

Last autumn, the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas went to see the new 5-star overlooking Royal Portrush, venue of The 153rd Open in 2025

Dunluce Castle perches precariously over the jagged cliffs of County Antrim and, on a clear day, one can look over the North Channel at its neighbour, Scotland. The castle has a varied and storied past. Built by the MacDonnells, who arrived from Scotland in the 1550s, it still clings to the cliff edge as if by sheer will and determination. Four centuries later and it still attracts thousands of people from all over the world.
And now, less than two miles away, something new has been under construction along the very same coastline, namely Dunluce Lodge at Portrush. Like Dunluce Castle, this new five-star resort has also been built by people from across the water. Dunluce Lodge represents the dream of two Texans, Jonathan Harper and Robert Covington.
A dear friend of mine, Maebeth Fenton Martin MBE, drew my attention to this new property over two years ago. Knowing, I am always on the lookout for special properties for my clients, she told me to keep a close eye on this part of the Antrim coastline. And so, in late August, knowing this property was but six months away from its grand opening, I decided to spend three nights in Portrush and Ballycastle.
Because the property was still under construction, Maebeth’s long time friend, Wilma Erskine OBE, suggested we both stay at a local guesthouse, Craignamara which overlooks the Portrush Peninsula. I would be remiss if I did not stop for a moment and pay homage to these wonderful ladies. Wilma Erskine was awarded an OBE (Officer of the Order of The British Empire) for services to tourism and golf and is now the brand Ambassador for Dunluce Lodge and Maebeth Fenton Martin (former owner of Ardtara Country House in neighbouring County Londonderry), was awarded an MBE (Member of The Order of The British Empire) from Queen Elizabeth II in 1998 for her services in the US for tourism in Northern Ireland. To say I was in capable hands would be an understatement.
The guesthouse was simply beautiful. Quiet, beautifully decorated and one cannot help but notice the nod to golf as you walk around the house. Golf hats hung on the staircase from golf clubs around the world, left by guests who wanted to leave their mark. Our hosts, Rod and Kerry Leitch, are also members of Royal Portrush Golf Club. I listened to their stories about the area, and eagerly took note of shop, tourist and restaurant recommendations.
After a delicious breakfast, we all set off in convoy, eager to see what lay ahead.
Dunluce Lodge looks out over the 4th fairway at Royal Portrush. I stood and watched as construction workers were putting the finishing touches to what will be ‘The Largest Putting Green’ in Ireland. This will be for the guests staying at the resort.
I looked out past this green, over the fairway and past the sand dunes, where nature and golf converged in perfect harmony. My party had gone on ahead to look inside, so I quickly ran to catch up, squelching my way through the muddy site. As soon as we walked through the front door, I noticed this would indeed be somewhere different and somewhere special. For here, there would be no formal check in/reception desk that would be typical in hotels but instead a welcoming alcove, beneath the staircase offering the traveller a drink, this gesture, a quiet invitation to pause and unwind.
Set around a courtyard, Dunluce Lodge offers 35 luxurious suites, ranging in size from 258-505 sq ft. Each room accommodates up to 2 people. For larger groups, The Stookan - the name inspired by a nearby rock formation at the Giant’s Causeway – is ideal. Featuring a fireside lounge, stylish furnishings, captivating views and every amenity for your ultimate home away from home comfort, it offers eight suites which are perfect for exclusive use.
I could not help but notice, as we walked the corridors some workers putting the finishing touches on the Dry Room - a much needed facility for those planning to play golf in Ireland! The Vault, as the name would suggest, is located in the basement and will offer a unique and intimate experience for connoisseurs of fine spirits and wines. Their extensive collection boasts an impressive array of wines from around the globe and premium whiskeys from Ireland and beyond. As people chatted among themselves, I wandered over to a worker who I noticed was working very carefully with tree bark. I asked what he was doing with it. He was a local man. He told me the owners wanted to make sure they incorporated as many local and national touches as possible. And indeed, in my opinion, panelling the walls of The Vault with old Irish oak was certainly a nod to our heritage.
Back upstairs, we all meandered through the bedrooms. I stood alone in a bathroom. I wanted to feel what it would be like to stay here. I’m a huge bath fan. People think we should only have showers nowadays, so I am so grateful when properties do not forget those of us who like to luxuriate and unwind in a bath. Looking out the window, the course winds through a landscape carved and shaped by the elements. My reverie was interrupted by the calling of my name.
We filed past electricians, plasterers and painters. From the bar, one can walk outside to the patio and it is here that I imagine guests will make their way, like bees to a honey pot. For it is here, looking out on this particular fairway, that captures the very essence of links golf.
I walked outside, the air brisk and tinged with the salty scent of the Atlantic Ocean and overhead I heard the sound of seagulls. This course, with its long history, will be the home of The Open 2025. For the golfer, it offers a challenge, not simply from its layout, but from the elements.
When Dunluce Lodge opens its doors this February, it will also offer a wellness spa with four treatment rooms. Whilst this property has been strategically built to offer 5-star accommodation for the avid golfer, it is a property for anyone who wants to explore this coastline. I stayed in the area for three days and, during this time, I also drove 45 minutes inland to Seamus Heaney’s Homeplace.
It had not been the best summer, weather wise, but on checking the forecast for my last day, it promised a clear sky and sunshine, and so, without hesitation, I booked my ferry ticket from Ballycastle, a mere half hour drive away, to Rathlin Island. And what a day I enjoyed. When researching areas I do of course, like to spend some time with people, but I spend most of my time alone. For when I am alone, people and places reveal themselves to me in the most unexpected ways. As The Spirit Of Rathlin ferry pulled away from the Antrim coastline, the dramatic cliffs began to recede into the distance. I watched as the soft white foam was left behind by the ferry, hearing the constant and rhythmic rush of waves against the hull of the boat and thinking about Dunluce Castle, once built by people from across the water and still perching over the cliffs. And now Dunluce Lodge, also built by people from across the water is set to open its doors to welcome thousands more people from around the world to discover and embrace this magical land.

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Northern Star

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas shares her excitement in discovering one of the Guide’s favourite eco-destinations, The Salthouse Hotel

Irish summer evenings possess a unique magic, and this particular evening was no exception. As I stepped outside to take in the views, I found myself leaning against a low fence, lost in thought. The landscape before me seemed like a scene destined for immortality on canvas. Had Claude Monet been alive today, I imagined this vista transformed into a masterful oil painting, proudly displayed in a gallery somewhere.

The rolling hills were carpeted with wildflowers, nature's paintbrush having used every vibrant hue in her palette. Buttercups and avens, marigolds and daisies danced gently in the breeze. In the distance, the calm sea shimmered beneath a cloudless blue sky. It was a truly special evening.
As I stood chatting with a lovely woman beside me, the wildflowers began to sway more urgently. A distant whir of helicopter blades soon grew louder, stirring the blooms into a whirlpool of motion. Within minutes, one helicopter after another touched down just feet away.

While continuing my conversation, I remarked on the breathtaking sunset before us. The woman introduced me to her son, who stood nearby, waiting to welcome his arriving guests. They were dining at the Salthouse Bar and Restaurant, where I had just dined myself. We finally introduced ourselves to each other. Her name was Joann McGarrity, and she and her husband are the owners of this spectacular property, The Salthouse Hotel, located in Ballycastle, County Antrim. Her son, Carl McGarrity, who was greeting people as they alighted from the helicopters, is the Director of the hotel.

Only two days earlier, I had been staying in Portrush, eager to visit Rathlin Island. Knowing the ferry departed from Ballycastle, I decided to book a stay at the Salthouse Hotel. From the moment I stepped inside this hotel, I was struck by how the family had seamlessly blended the beauty of the outdoors with their interior design.

Natural light flooded the hallways, wicker baskets sat beside the chairs in the entryway, and delicate bud vases held dried flowers and grasses in soft, earthy tones. Solid wooden pillars stood like silent sentinels along the corridor, and wall sconces, perched upon intricately carved driftwood, cast a warm glow.

Outside the Lookout Restaurant & Bar, thistles swayed against whitewashed walls, their purple blooms a striking contrast. In the Salthouse Bar and Restaurant, a beautifully carved chess set, graced the coffee table, inviting guests to sit and play. From the hotel’s dining rooms, the vast North Atlantic Ocean stretched out like a pane of polished glass, but I knew only all too well this tranquility was but one face of the Atlantic! Growing up in Ireland, one knows this same ocean could also roar with a wild and fearsome energy, seemingly relentless and untamed against the coastline.

The fields unfolded below like a giant patchwork quilt, where cows and sheep dotted the squares grazing lazily. This hotel is without a doubt one of the nicest properties I have visited in quite some time. The McGarrity family has done a superb job of bringing the outside in. It’s as if the indoors and outdoors are all one. I am eager to return. Eager to explore this area in more depth, eager to meet the people and eager to share with my clients here in the United States. If you have not visited or stayed, you are missing out.

*The Salthouse Hotel has been recommended by GCGuides since opening in 2019 and was the winner of our Sustainability Award 2023

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Rachel Gaffney�s Letter From Texas - Within The Village

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas reflects on the true meaning of luxury – and of great hospitality

When I hear someone say something is "within the village" I think of hidden stories, belonging, tradition and familiarity. It evokes a sense of timelessness, closeness and nostalgia. I also know, from growing up in Ireland, that small villages are very layered. Community is what makes a village work like no other place I know. Cradled in the heart of Roundstone, a small but captivating village 48 miles northwest of Galway City, lies ‘Within The Village’, a cluster of 5 self catering cottages, redefining luxury travel. The Bracken, The Bog Cotton, The Lichen, The Kelp and The Sea Cottage are all served by an outdoor communal space, designed by award winning landscape gardener, Mark Grehan, who has created this space for guests to relax and enjoy views of the mountain and seas.

Scattered across Ireland are places that stir the imagination, where creatives, nature seekers and the culturally curious all find something that speaks to them and Roundstone Village is one such place. Within The Village is perfectly placed in this intimate setting, steps from the sea and moments from the village’s quiet heartbeat. It isn’t a typical luxury stay with room service and restaurants. Instead, it’s a home that invites you to slow down, to be present and to feel connected. Connecting with the people of the village, connecting with the landscape and indeed, probably even more importantly, connecting with the people travelling with you. I visited Roundstone in May of this year and met with one of the owners, Maria Murphy. Maria’s enthusiasm and passion for this special place is contagious. These cottages have been meticulously restored.

Original fireplaces, sash windows, and natural materials like slate, linen, and wool reflect the muted palette of the surrounding hills and seascapes. The interiors blend heritage with modern comfort, with antique accents and layered lighting creating a soothing, lived-in atmosphere. Spacious, welcoming rooms invite rest and reconnection, making it clear this is a place to breathe, reflect, and belong. The kitchens are fully equipped for slow mornings over fresh soda bread and freshly pressed coffee, long lunches with local cheeses, or cozy dinners by the fire. Guests can visit nearby smokehouses for local seafood, or arrange for a private chef to prepare a feast showcasing the best of Connemara’s land and sea. Concierge services can also organise guided hikes, seaweed baths, yoga, or local art workshops - all designed to deepen your connection with this special corner of Ireland.

Outside, the Atlantic breathes gently over Bertraghboy Bay, and the Twelve Bens mountains stand guard in the distance. This is a place that invites you to stop speed dating with Ireland, a phrase I use all too frequently but one that perfectly captures the ethos of Within The Village. Too often, travellers rush through Ireland’s beauty, ticking off sights without truly experiencing them. Here, you’re encouraged to pause, linger, and absorb. To savour stories told by locals, to watch tides change colour with the light, and to find stillness in the wild Atlantic air.

Just under a mile beyond the village, a bridge connects to Inishnee Island, a peaceful, windswept place with walking trails, grazing sheep, and breathtaking Atlantic views. Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Beach, just minutes away, boast white sands and crystal-clear waters that rival any tropical shore.

In Roundstone, luxury means belonging. It means waking up in a home that feels like part of the village itself, where the line between visitor and local blurs. It’s about the small moments, enjoying a coffee at The Coffee Cottage or O’Dowd’s Cafe, enjoying some pan fried Roundstone Bay scallops at the Roundstone Bay Hotel, sharing a pint in O’Dowd’s pub, sitting on the sea wall watching the fishing boats glide across the bay and more importantly meeting Irish people. Within The Village isn’t just a place to stay in Roundstone; it is Roundstone at its most beautiful, inviting you to slow down and discover the Ireland you came to find.

At its heart, great hospitality, isn’t about what’s offered, but how it makes you feel.

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