Cookery Feature - Foxford Favourites

Our travels around the country this year have been brilliant so far, thanks to the exceptional weather and – envisaging it from a visitor’s point of view as always – it’s a particular pleasure to find authentic experiences, warm hospitality and quality food with a real Irish feel in popular tourist destinations.
Not all rise to the challenge unfortunately and there’s still too much chain food on offer (often diminishing what would be an outstanding experience if that could be remedied), but a growing number of visitor centres are taking real pride in what they do and that can create memories that will last a lifetime. Hugely enjoyable examples that raise the bar include our current Visitor Centre of the Year, Ballycroy Visitor Centre and Wild & Ginger Café at Nephin National Park in North Mayo, the Hook Lighthouse & Café in Wexford, the delightful new Shackleton Experience and Ernie’s Café in Athy Co Kildare, Kylemore Abbey in Connemara (which never fails to surprise visitors in so many ways, not least the genuine hospitality and quality of the food served to thousands of visitors daily) and the unique Foxford Woollen Mills in Co Mayo, where Head Chef Kathleen Flavin (of nearby Tourmakeady) put together a great collection of Foxford favourites for the lovely cookbook that they produced last year. With its appealing and practical collection of recipes that reflect the café’s commendable seasonal focus and support of local producers, it’s a great example that other likeminded visitor centres could follow.

RECIPES to try, from the Foxford Café Cookbook by Kathleen Flavin. With photographs by Christopher Heaney, it is published in hardback by The O’Brien Press and available from Foxford and good bookshops RRP €24,99.

SEAFOOD CHOWDER
I made my first chowder in Clifden, and I still make it in a similar way. It starts with a good soup base, some chunks of fish, parsley and cream. I love to finish it with Achill Island Smoked or Seaweed sea salt. They are really special local products! If you can’t source them, look out for a version more local to you.
FOR THE BASE
1 small onion
1/2 clove of garlic
4 sticks of celery
8 medium potatoes
90g butter
4 parsley stalks
1 bay leaf
1 litres vegetable stock
TO FINISH
300g white and smoked fish diced, (I use smoked haddock and any white fish)
10-12 cooked mussels
2tbsp chopped fresh coriander
2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
100 ml cream

1. To make the base, peel and roughly chop your onion, and peel and mince your garlic. Wash and roughly chop 2 sticks of celery and 6 potatoes.
2. Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the onion and garlic, and cook until they begin to soften but not brown - keep the heat low. It should take 5-6 minutes. Stir occasionally.
3. Add the roughly chopped celery and potato, parsley stalks, bay leaf and stock. Simmer for 20-25 minutes, until the celery is soft.
4. Meanwhile, chop the remaining celery and potato into 1cm dice, and place the celery in a steamer pot. Steam for 5 minutes before
adding the potato, then continue to cook for 10-15 minutes, until they are cooked but keep their shape. Carefully remove from the steamer and set aside to cool.
5. Take the pot containing the base from the heat, remove the bay leaf, then blend the base, using a stick blender, until smooth. It should not be too thick - if it is, add a little more vegetable stock.
6. Gently bring the base back to the boil, add your chopped raw fish, stir and simmer for 2 minutes. Then add the cooked diced potato and celery, cooked mussels, chopped herbs and cream. Allow the flavours to combine for a minute or two. Season to taste with the Achill Island Smoked or Seaweed sea salt.

PAPPARDELLE PASTA WITH PESTO
This is always popular on our salad counter. It’s a very simple salad but you must choose a good-quality pasta. We use a basil and parsley pesto, without the traditional pinenuts and Parmesan, to accommodate our customers with various allergies. I have included a wild garlic version below as well. The pestos are super-versatile, and you’ll have some left over for adding to another dish.
SERVES 4
250g pappardelle pasta (I use De Cecco)
pinch of salt
3 tbsp olive oil
100g Parmesan
for the wild garlic pesto
100g wild garlic (including tender stems)
8 tbsp grated Parmesan
200ml olive oil
sea salt, to taste
for the basil pesto
100g basil (including tender stalks)
50g curly parsley (leaves only)
3 cloves of garlic
600ml olive oil
salt to taste
1. To make the wild garlic pesto, pulse all the ingredients together using a hand blender - it does not need to be completely smooth. Taste before adding salt, as it may be salty enough depending on the Parmesan. To store, place in a clean glass jar and cover with a few tablespoons of olive oil to keep the air out - this prevents discolouration. Your pesto will keep for up to 10 days in the fridge - not that it will last that long.
2. To make the basil pesto, prepare and store as per the recipe above. You may need to mince your garlic before pulsing, depending on your hand blender’s power.
3. Place a large saucepan three-quarters full of water over full heat The pot should look way too large for the job - pappardelle likes space. Season with a generous pinch of salt and a tablespoon of olive oil.
4. Bring to the boil, and when it’s bubbling add your pappardelle.
5. Using a plastic or metal spoon, give it a stir to make sure the pasta is not sticking and is completely immersed. Turn the heat down slightly, to a gentle boil, as pasta is delicate. Cook for 6-7 minutes or according to the guidelines for your brand of pasta.
6. Drain immediately, using a colander, and run the cold tap over the pasta until it’s completely cooled. Leave for a couple of minutes so all the water drains away.
7. Toss the pasta in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil – this will prevent it from sticking if you’re not using it immediately.
8. To serve, place the pasta on a large shallow platter and spoon your pesto of choice over the top, then sprinkle with ground or shaved Parmesan.

CAULIFLOWER TACOS
I love versatility in recipes – for example, substituting lemon caper aioli (recipe given in Foxford cookbook) for the buttermilk dressing below and adding some spinach are simple changes that will give you a different, equally delicious version of this dish. The battered cauliflower is relatively simple to do, so it’s worth taking the time to make the sides. I also make canapes with this recipe and use the romesco sauce or aioli as dips.
SERVES 4-6
1/2 head of cauliflower
I tsp harissa paste
100g flour (regular or GF)
pinch of salt
vegetable oil, for deep frying
FOR THE BATTER
125g self-raising flour (regular or GF) - if you only have plain, add I tsp of baking powder (regular or GF)
125ml chilled sparkling water
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp paprika
TO SERVE
8-12 corn tortillas
romesco sauce (recipe below)
buttermilk dressing (recipe below)
pickled red onion (optional – recipe given in book)
I lime, cut into wedges
1. Preheat your oven to 17O°C fan/19O°C/gas 5. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
2. Using a sharp knife, cut the cauliflower florets as close as possible to the stalk, then cut them into 3.5-4cm pieces. Toss the harissa paste. Mix until the cauliflower is coated lightly.
3. Sieve the flour and salt into a large bowl. Add the cauliflower, and mix again until completely coated in flour. Shake off am excess and place on a clean tray.
4. Whisk all the ingredients for the batter together until smooth. Do not mix it until you are ready to use it.
5. To use a deep fryer, add oil to the manufacturer’s recommended fill line, and heat to 19O°C. To use a large wok, add 2.5-3.5cm, and heat to 19O°C - use a thermometer to measure this and do not leave it unattended.
6. Coat some of the cauliflower in the batter, then use a slotted spoon to carefully lift it into the hot oil. Deep-fry the cauliflower for 2-3 mins until golden and puffy. Drain on kitchen paper and continue with the rest in batches. Place on the lined tray and put in the oven for 4-6 minutes until cooked through.
7. Place your non-stick pan or cast-iron skillet over a medium heat. After a few minutes place a corn tortilla on it and turn after 15-30 seconds. Repeat until you’ve heated all the tortillas you require.
8. To serve, spread some romesco sauce on each tortilla, add a few pieces of cauliflower, some pickled red onions, a drizzle of the buttermilk dressing and a squeeze of lime.

BUTTERMILK DRESSING
140g mayonnaise
60g yogurt
3 tbsp cultured buttermilk
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
3 small cloves garlic
Tiny pinch each of sea salt and cracked black pepper.
Blend all ingredients together in a jug, using a stick blender, until the garlic cloves are well creamed
Store in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to 3 days. Stir before use.

ROMESCO SAUCE
2 garlic cloves, minced
50g toasted flaked almonds
350g, roasted peppers
40g toasted bread (GF or regular)
1 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
Sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste
Put all ingredients into a food processor (or jug, if using a hand blender) and pulse until everything is completely incorporated. It doesn’t need to be completely smooth.