Cookery Feature - Beans, Beautiful Beans

Chef Ali Honour’s lovely little book all about beans hit the shelves at the end of January and it couldn’t be more welcome. Having earned her place as Ireland’s Bean Queen thanks to her particular passion for these brilliant little power houses over many years, you could be forgiven for thinking that she eats little else and – while obviously not so, although it’s certainly possible – there’s no better woman to put the case for their extraordinary versatility: “…These small but mighty ingredients tick every box that matters: nutrient-dense, affordable and climate-friendly. They’re not just good for you, they’re good full stop...” Personally I’m mad about them too and the one thing I would never be without in the garden is runner beans – for a small space, in particular, no crop gives you more bang for your buck: they’re easy and attractive to grow (and available with differing flower colours should you wish), prolific, endlessly versatile and rarely available to buy in Ireland, which has always been a mystery to me. The climate-friendliness of beans is another huge plus that has never been more relevant than now - and you don’t have to be vegan, or even vegetarian, to make the most of these protein-packed little legumes. They can make a huge difference to the viability of a mainly plant-based diet, of course, but also to a reduced-meat diet, by supplementing smaller meat or fish portions with delicious and fibre-rich plant protein. The latest in the Blasta series of ‘little books with big voices’, it's extraordinary how much - very digestible – information and great recipes that Ali Honour and the team have managed to pack into such a compact space. All the basics are here – whether fresh, frozen, tinned or even sprouting, Ali gives straightforward advice on getting the best from all kinds of beans (and, given her focus on zero waste, side products feature too, notably pods and the miraculous aquafaba), and the sheer range of recipes is not only proof of their versatility but will surprise many. Who would have thought, for example, that you would find recipes for crème brûlée, baked Alaska or cocktails in a book about beans. Just goes to show!

BEANS by Ali Honour: hardback, 72pp; colour photography throughout. Published in Ireland by BLASTA BOOKS, RRP £15/€17. Available online, from bookshops and selected speciality stores.

RECIPES TO TRY:

The Bean Queen Burger 
Burgers are a great way to introduce beans to even the most die-hard carnivores, and this burger means business. It’s got structure, it’s got bite, and thanks to the mighty Carlin pea (an old variety recently revived), it’s got serious flavour. None of that bland, beige nonsense here. And because a good burger is only as strong as its supporting cast, I’ve gone full beans ahead with bean ketchup and aquafaba mayo. Get ready to rethink everything you thought you knew about bean burgers.
MAKES 4
200g (1 cup) dried Carlin peas or 400g (2¼ cups) cooked
1 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, grated
150g (5¼ oz) chestnut mushrooms, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
50g (½ cup) fresh or dried breadcrumbs
1 tbsp tomato purée
1 tbsp umami flavouring, eg miso, soy sauce, tamari, Marmite or Worcestershire
vegetable oil, for cooking
FOR THE BEANY BURGER SAUCE:
3–4 tbsp aquafaba mayo (see below)
2–3 tbsp black-eyed bean ketchup (see below)
TO SERVE:
mature Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced (optional)
4 sourdough or brioche burger buns, toasted
shredded lettuce
thick tomato slices
quick pickled red onions and/or pickled cucumbers

If you’re using dried Carlin peas, soak them in plenty of cold water overnight, then drain and boil in fresh water for 45–50 minutes, until tender. Drain well. Put the cooked peas in a bowl, then lightly mash them with a fork or potato masher, leaving some texture.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan on a medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, mushrooms and garlic and cook for 5 minutes, until soft. Add the fresh thyme, spices, salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute.
Transfer the cooked vegetables to the bowl with the mashed Carlin peas. Stir in the breadcrumbs, tomato pur.e and whatever umami flavour bomb you’re using. Mix until well combined and it all holds together. Check the seasoning and adjust as needed.
Divide the mixture into four equal portions and shape them into patties. Put
them on a plate and chill in the fridge for at least 20 minutes to firm up.
Meanwhile, to make the burger sauce, simply mix the aquafaba mayo and black-eyed bean ketchup together. When you’re ready to cook, heat a little vegetable oil in a large non-stick frying pan on a medium heat. Add the burgers and cook for 4–5 minutes on each side, until golden and heated through. To make these into cheeseburgers, add a slice of cheese on top of each patty, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 1 minute, until the cheese has started to melt.
Build the burger with your choice of toppings, but for the full Bean Queen, spread both sides of a toasted sourdough or brioche bun with burger
sauce. Add a handful of shredded lettuce and one or two thick tomato sliced to the bottom half, then put a burger on top, pile on some pickled red
onions and/or pickled cucumbers and sandwich together with the top half of the bun.

Black-eyed Bean Ketchup 
This homemade ketchup sneaks in some bean goodness. It’s great with whatever you fancy or to add to cottage pies and stews. It also makes an excellent burger sauce when mixed with aquafaba mayo (see below).
MAKES 1 LITRE (4¼ CUPS)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 red pepper, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp paprika
500g (3 cups) cooked black-eyed beans or 2 x 400g (14oz) tins,
rinsed and drained
1 x 400g (14oz) tin of chopped tomatoes or 400ml (14fl oz) passata
100g (½ cup) light brown sugar
200ml (¾ cup + 4 tsp) water (to start with)
100ml (1/3 cup + 4 tsp) apple cider vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
a little chilli or harissa (optional for extra kick)
Sterilise your jars and lids by cleaning them in hot soapy water, then put them upside-down on a baking tray and pop them in an oven preheated to 180ºC (350ºF) for at least 15 minutes or until you’re ready to use them. Alternatively, run them through your dishwasher and leave them in there until you’re ready.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the red pepper, garlic and spices and cook for 3–4 minutes. Stir in the beans, tomatoes, brown sugar, water, vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper and a little chilli or harissa (if using).
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Take the pan off the heat and allow the mixture to cool slightly, then use a hand blender to purée until smooth. If it
has reduced too much, add a little more water until you get a good pouring consistency. Taste the ketchup and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt or sugar if needed. Pour the black-eyed bean ketchup into your sterilised jars or
bottles, then let it cool to room temperature before sealing. Store in a cool, dry place. Once opened, keep in the fridge and use within one month.

Aquafaba mayo
Aquafaba (Latin for ‘bean water’) is the starchy liquid in a can of chickpeas or left behind when you cook pulses like white beans. This humble liquid has found superstar status in plant-based cooking for its egg-like powers. Thanks to its unique combo of protein and starch, aquafaba can whip, bind, emulsify and foam, making it an ideal egg or dairy alternative. In fact, just 3 tablespoons of aquafaba equal one whole egg, making it a favourite in vegan baking, meringues, mousses and even cocktails. But where it really shines is in an egg-free mayo like this – and it’s a zero-waste win for your kitchen and the planet.
MAKES ABOUT 300ML (1¼ CUPS)
240ml (1 cup) rapeseed oil
120ml (½ cup) aquafaba (the liquid from 1 x 400g / 14oz tin of chickpeas or white beans)
2–3 tbsp apple cider vinegar, depending on how tangy you like it
1 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp sea salt
Let all ingredients come up to room temperature for best results.
Pop everything in a blender and blitz for 45–60 seconds. Or you can put the
ingredients in a large measuring jug and use a hand blender, but keep the
blender at the bottom of the jug and blitz for 10 seconds before
moving it up. Don’t worry if the mayo looks a little thin, it
will thicken more when it’s chilled. Spoon the mayo into a clean jar and keep it in the fridge for up to two weeks.

Sticky Toffee Bean & Parsnip Pudding 
A classic pud with a clever twist. It’s rich, yet lighter than the usual dense pudding. And with the beans and parsnip in it, you can feel virtuous even as you drown it in toffee sauce.
SERVES 6
Preheat the oven to 180ºC (350ºF). Grease a rectangular baking tin, baking dish or six ramekins with melted butter. If you’re using a tin, line it with non-stick baking paper too.
Put the chopped dates in a bowl, pour over the boiling water and stir in the baking soda. Let it sit for 10 minutes to soften the dates.
Transfer the dates and their soaking liquid to a blender or food processor with the beans, parsnip, treacle, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger and salt. Blend until smooth.
Add the brown sugar, melted butter and eggs and pulse to combine. Add the flour and baking powder and blend until smooth.
Pour the batter into the tin or baking dish or divide it among the ramekins. Bake in the preheated oven for 30–40 minutes if using a baking tin or dish or for 18–20 minutes if using ramekins, until cooked through and golden.
Meanwhile, to make the toffee sauce, put the sugar, butter and cream in a saucepan on a medium heat. Simmer for 3–5 minutes, stirring constantly, until thickened, then stir in a pinch of flaky sea salt.
To serve, cut the sticky toffee pudding into slices and spoon it into a bowl or serve it straight from the ramekins. Add one or two scoops of ice cream, then pour over a pool of sauce. It’s worth the calories.
150g (1 cup) pitted dates,
chopped
180ml (¾ cup) boiling water
1 tsp baking soda
150g (¾ cup) cooked beans (any kind)
1 parsnip, grated
2 tbsp treacle
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp sea salt
125g (¾ cup) dark brown sugar
90g (6 tbsp) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
3 eggs
150g (1¼ cups) self-raising flour
1½ tsp baking powder
FOR THE TOFFEE SAUCE:
150g (¾ cup) dark brown sugar
75g (5 tbsp) unsalted butter
240ml (1 cup) cream
flaky sea salt
TO SERVE:
vanilla ice cream
Preheat the oven to 180ºC (350ºF). Grease a rectangular baking tin, baking dish or six ramekins with melted butter.
If you’re using a tin, line it with non-stick baking paper too. Put the chopped dates in a bowl, pour over the boiling water and stir in the baking soda. Let it sit for 10 minutes to soften the dates.
Transfer the dates and their soaking liquid to a blender or food processor with the beans, parsnip, treacle, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger and salt. Blend until smooth. Add the brown sugar, melted butter and eggs and pulse to combine. Add the flour and baking powder and blend until smooth.
Pour the batter into the tin or baking dish or divide it among the ramekins. Bake in the preheated oven for 30–40 minutes if using a baking tin or dish or for 18–20 minutes if using ramekins, until cooked through and golden.
Meanwhile, to make the toffee sauce, put the sugar, butter and cream in a saucepan on a medium heat. Simmer for 3–5 minutes, stirring constantly, until thickened, then stir in a pinch of flaky sea salt.
To serve, cut the sticky toffee pudding into slices and spoon it into a bowl or serve it straight from the ramekins. Add one or two scoops of ice cream, then pour over a pool of sauce. It’s worth the calories.