- ireland -

County Dublin

Dublin County is divided into the three administrative “sub-counties” of Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown to the southeast, South Dublin to the southwest, and the large territory of Fingal to the north. However, although these regions are among the most populous and economically active in all Ireland, the notion of Greater Dublin being in four administrative parts is only slowly taking root - for instance, all postal addresses still either have a Dublin city numbered code, or else they’re simply “County Dublin”.
Inevitably, it is in the countryside and towns in the Greater Dublin Region that some of the pressures of the success of the Irish economy continue to be most evident.

But although Dubliners of town and county alike will happily accept that they’re part of a thrusting modern city, equally they’ll cheerfully adhere to the old Irish saying that when God made time, He made a lot of it. So most folk are allowing themselves all the time in the world to get used to the fact that they are now either Fingallions, or South Dubliners, or indeed Hyphenators out in Dun Laoghaire-Rathdown.

This relaxed approach is good news for the visitor, for it means that if you feel that the frenetic pace of Dublin city is just a mite overpowering, you will very quickly find that nearby, in what used to be - and for many folk still is - County Dublin, there continue to be oases of a much more easy-going way of life waiting to be discovered.

Admittedly, the fact that the handsome Dublin Mountains overlook the city in spectacular style means that, even up in the nearby hills, you can be well aware of the city’s buzz. But if you want to find a vigorous contrast between modern style and classical elegance, you can find it in an unusual form at Dun Laoghaire’s remarkable harbour, where one of the world’s most modern ferryports is in interesting synergy with one of the world’s largest Victorian artificial harbours.

A showcase marina in the harbour, expensively built so that its style matches the harbour’s classic elegance, has steadily developed, while the harbour area of Dun Laoghaire town beside it continues to be improve in quality and vitality, with a weekly Farmer’s Market on the waterfront (Thursdays, 10.0am to 4.30pm) providing an intriguing interaction between sea and land.

Should you head northward into Fingal, you’ll quickly discover an away from-it-all sort of place of estuary towns, fishing ports, offshore islands alive with seabirds, and an environment of leisurely pace in which it’s thought very bad form to hasten over meals in restaurants where portion control is either unknown, or merely in its infancy.

Life in Fingal was much improved by the completion of the M1 Motorway northward across the county, removing the pressure of through traffic on local roads. It’s interesting to note that connoisseurs of this intriguing region reckon that one of its long established features, the Dublin-Belfast mainline railway - first used in 1838 - effectively creates a “land island” on the Donabate-Portrane peninsula, as there are only two road crossings into this sandy territory with its four golf courses.

Local Attractions and Information

Balbriggan/Skerries Ardgillan Castle +353 (0)1 849 2212

Blackrock Deepwell House & Gardens +353 (0)1 288 7407

Donabate Newbridge House, Park & Traditional Farm +353 (0)1 843 6534

Dun Laoghaire Farm Market (Harbour Plaza, Thurs 10.30am-4pm) +353 (0)87 611 5016

Dun Laoghaire Harbour Office (24 hours) +353 (0)1 280 1130

Dun Laoghaire National Maritime Museum, Haigh Terrace +353 (0)1 280 0969

Dun Laoghaire Tourist Information+353 (0)1 280 6984 /5 /6

Howth National Transport Museum, Howth Castle +353 (0)1 832 0427

Leopardstown Racecourse +353 (0)1 289 3607

Leopardstown Farm Market Fri 11am-7pm +353 (0)87 611 5016

Lucan Primrose Hill Garden (house attrib. James Gandon) +353 (0)1 628 0373

Malahide Malahide Castle & Demesne +353 (0)1 846 2184

Malahide Fry Model Railway (Malahide Castle) +353 (0)1 846 3779

Malahide Talbot Botanic Gardens (Malahide Castle) +353 (0)1 872 7530

Naul (Fingal) Seamus Ennis Centre (Traditional Music) +353 (0)1 802 0898

Rathfarnham Marlay Demesne gardens +353 (0)1 493 7372

Sandycove James Joyce Museum (Martello Tower) +353 (0)1 280 9265

Sandyford Fernhill Gardens (Himalayan species) +353 (0)1 295 6000

Skerries Mills - Working Windmills, Craft and Visitor Centre +353 (0)1 849 5208

Tallaght Community Arts Centre, Old Blessington Rd +353 (0)1 462 1501