In addition to offering simple joys like warming turf fires and unparalleled views across the Burren landscape, this quietly luxurious country house is one of Ireland’s top food destinations.
The present house dates from the late 18th century, and has been added to many times, but the property has a long and interesting history. It dates back to a tower house, or small castle, which was built by the O’Loughlen clan (the region’s principal tribe) between the 10th and 17th centuries, and is still intact.
Having been run as a country house hotel by the Haden family since 1976, it is currently owned by Simon Haden and his wife Freddie, who have been proprietors since Simon’s parents retired in 2003 and whose fresh vision is bringing many new visitors to this fascinating area.
Surrounded by trees and gardens, in sharp contrast to the stark lunar landscape of the surrounding Burren, this peaceful place is an oasis of warmth, comfort and hospitality, and can be seen from miles around. It has a uniquely serene atmosphere, and garden flowers throughout the house reflect the personal style of the owners, who have deftly added light and colour to the period interior, artfully blending antique furniture and paintings with stylish contemporary textiles and interesting modern Irish art. (A small selection of works is offered for sale, details on application.)
The accommodation is simply lovely: spacious rooms with lovely countryside views have Aveda toiletries in the bathrooms and are thoughtfully furnished by Freddie with understated yet luxurious, contemporary style - and deliberately left without the worldly interference of television.
While the public areas of the hotel are not suitable for pets, ‘particularly loved four-legged friends’ are now welcome to stay with their owners in a "doggy" room with its own sheltered outdoor area, an outdoor kennel and an indoor play pen/bed for inclement weather.
In the morning, allow time to enjoy an excellent breakfast - a delicious buffet set up with fresh juices and fruits, organic cereals, freshly baked bread, home-made preserves and local produce including Burren Smokehouse organic smoked salmon, Burren Gold organic cheese and Limerick ham; the menu of hot dishes reads very simply - but the secret is in the quality ingredients, which sing with flavour.
Although very elegant, this warm-hearted hotel is not too formal or at all intimidating; non-residents are welcome to drop in for lunch or afternoon tea in the Corkscrew Bar - named after a nearby hill road which, incidentally, provides the most scenic approach to Ballyvaughan.
In fine weather guests can sit out beside the Celtic Cross rose garden and watch patches of sun and shade chasing across the hills. The locality is full of interest and especially attractive to walkers – who may appreciated the in-room massage service, which is available by arrangement.
Small Conferences/Weddings (15/65); free broadband wi/fi. Croquet, cycling, falconry, gardens, walking, wine courses. Golf and garden visits nearby. Pets permitted in some areas. Children welcome (no concessions, but cot available, €20, baby sitting arranged). All day room service.
Rooms 21 (3 premier suites, 3 junior suites, 7 ground floor) B&B from €179.00 per room; check hotel website for updates. No SC.
The Dining Room
Since the arrival of gifted head chef, Mickael Viljanen, in 2008, The Dining Room at Gregans Castle has become a place of pilgrimage for food lovers from all over Ireland and beyond.
Well placed to take advantage of the lovely views over the Burren (where there can be very special light effects as the sun sets over Galway Bay on summer evenings), Freddie has created a calm and serene room in beautiful tones inspired by the landscape; the atmosphere is intimate, yet fresh - a perfect setting for an outstanding dining experience that is often accompanied by a pianist or, more unusually, a hammer dulcimer.
Mickael is from Finland and his style is modern European, but he was formerly with Paul Flynn at The Tannery in Dungarvan, Co Waterford and the absolute commitment to seeking out and showcasing the very best of local produce that Paul is renowned for is seen here too.
Using local and organic produce has always been a key feature of Gregans Castle - all fish is caught locally around Galway Bay, and Burren lamb and beef come from local butchers, for example - and Mickael clearly relishes the challenge of transforming these simple, top quality ingredients into dishes that are memorable both for their beauty and a combination of creativity, technical skill and finely balanced flavours that is truly satisfying.
Mickael offers exciting, mysteriously worded, menus, which tantalise and delight. The base is a daily changing Tasting Menu from which diners can choose to have twelve, nine or six courses, any of which is available with paired wines, and vegetarian options are available on request. The six course menu is included in the terms for half board guests; some packages also include activities (one Savour the Wonders of the West break teams up with Cashel House Hotel in Connemara) and offer very good value.
Following a stunning presentation of canapés – a set of four, including miniature creations of such delights as rooster livers on toast with elderflower & pickles, and beetroot meringue with smoked eel & horseradish, for example - you might begin with 'foie gras' (a pressed foie gras terrine served with honeycomb, pear, celery almond), followed by a fish dish such as 'scallop' (a delectable combination with truffle, cauliflower, hazelnut, wood sorrel and smoked apple).
Then comes the ‘main’ dish –‘squab pigeon’, perhaps, with new season carrot, date, vadouvan (curry spicing) and liquorice - or, maybe, the perennial favourite, Burren lamb: cannon, perhaps, served with broccoli, turnip, lemon, vinegar and soft goats cheese.
There is an impressively grown-up-sounding children's menu too, although children are also welcome to half portions from the dinner menu.
Seriously seductive desserts are almost worth the journey in their own right and come with guess-it-if-you-can titles like ‘strawberry, milk’ or ‘coffee caramel’ – but the best is yet to come, as Mickael’s meals finish with a bang: his extensive selection of petits fours is nothing less than the culinary equivalent of a fireworks display, a fitting finale for an exquisite dining experience.
The wine list has been compiled with the same attention to detail and it is an interesting read; reflecting the house philosophy of commitment to small producers, it includes an impressive selection of organic and biodynamic wines, leading off with the excellent Spanish house wines.
Dinner at Gregans Castle is a big treat - and people travel great distances to enjoy this sophisticated feast - but an attractive short à la carte lunch menu is also offered (very nicely served in The Corkscrew Bar) and delicious Afternoon Teas too.
Seats 50 (private room, 36); children over 7 years welcome to 8pm (tea for younger children served 5-6pm). D daily, 6-8.30pm; 6/9/12-course Tasting Menu €60/70/90 (with paired wines €85/110/150) House wines from about €25. Pianist 2 days a week. Short à la carte lunch available in the Corkscrew Bar, 12-2.30pm daily. Afternoon Tea, 2.30-5pm daily. Hotel closed 1 Dec-12 Feb. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
