The pretty and well-preserved village of Clonegal is on the borders of Wexford, Carlow and Wicklow, away from the main road to anywhere. But here, in a fine 18th century building, you will find chef Henry Stone, and his partner Stephanie Barrillier’s small but beautifully appointed and atmospheric restaurant.
The building has been very sympathetically converted, with many delightful details – an odd little insert in an uneven original corridor wall provides a shelf for a nightlight, for example, and a tiny old cottagey window in the back of the dining room has been retained, allowing a peep into the kitchen.
Arriving on a chilly autumn night, a welcoming log fire burns in the lovely sitting room and, in the dining room itself, a glowing stove in a big open stone fireplace has wood stacked up alongside ready for refills. Nightlights flicker everywhere, and simply laid tables are graced with a stone mustard jar holding a simple bouquet of fresh flowers.
There’s also a pretty courtyard used as a retreat for smokers, or for dining in fine weather - and a Chef’s Table allows parties of 4-6 to dine in the kitchen and observe the chefs at work.
The warm welcome belies an impressive professionalism - this is a place where guests can relax in the confidence that everything will run smoothly. Deceptively simple menus based on seasonal foods might begin with grilled Dublin Bay Prawns (langoustines) with bisque risotto, or an Irish charcuterie plate served with red cabbage marmalade and crusty poppy seed bread, featuring artisan produce like venison salami, chorizo, air-dried Connemara beef and pork salami.
Of the main courses, beef - matured for seven weeks - is a delight (a steak with flat mushrooms and oven-baked tomato, perhaps), also a gorgeously tender rump of Wexford lamb roasted with courgettes, aubergine, garlic and red onion.
Although this is red meat country, seafood such as perfectly seared fresh scallops with a frothy chervil cream and wine sauce will also be offered, and there is always an appealing vegetarian dish such as a richly delicious pea and asparagus risotto.
Simple, perfectly cooked side dishes of seasonal vegetables might include sugar snap peas with sesame seeds and new potatoes with parsley butter, and many of the tempting desserts feature seasonal fruits - or you may want to try the local cheese plate.
Suppliers are credited on the menu and a short but well chosen wine list includes a good fairly-priced house selection as well as a number of wines by the glass.
Stephanie is an outstanding host and Henry - a talented and dedicated chef running a serious kitchen - has a well-earned reputation for enticing menus, faultless cooking and good value, making Sha-Roe well worth a detour.
Space is limited so reservations are essential especially at weekends and for the Chef’s Table menu. After Sunday lunch, a visit to historical Huntington Castle (just around the corner) might be recommended.
Seats 28. D Wed-Sat, 6.30-9.30, a la carte; L Sun only, 12.30-3.30, set Sun L €34; house wine €19.50. Not suitable for children after 8pm. Closed Sun D, Mon, Tue and Jan. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
