This chic new-wave Indian restaurant was completely refurbished recently and is one of six in the Jaipur group - the others are Jaipur Dublin 2, Jaipur Dalkey, Chakra Restaurant Greystones, Jaipur Ongar and Ananda Restaurant Dundrum (see entries) and, although Malahide is particularly well-served with interesting eating places, it has earned a loyal following.
This County Dublin restaurants in the basement of a fine Georgian terrace, accessed by a built up pavement high above the road, which gives it a sense of calm and exclusivity - and, seen from the pavement above, the warm lights and décor are very inviting.
Here, head chef Anughau Srivastava creates colourful, well-flavoured dishes that have a lot of eye appeal, and the cooking is crisp and modern - a contemporary take on traditional Indian food that suits the setting and is typical of the Jaipur group.
The range of dishes offered is wide but tandoori cooking is a specialty and, particularly Tandoori Jhinga - large prawns marinated with Indian spices, cooked in the tandoor and served with a citrus salad; variations include Jaipur Jugalbandi, a combination dish of prawn, chicken, lamb and fish cooked in a tandoor.
Another favourite with Irish diners is a Kashmiri dish of slow-roasted lamb shank flavoured with aromatic spices, and there's also a good range of appealing vegetarian choices (highlighted on the menu); Shakahari Thaali, for example, is a combination of lentils, greens, potatoes and vegetables, served individually with rice and bread.
Many of the traditional Indian dishes take well to contemporary treatment, and even desserts - not usually a strength in ethnic restaurants - are worth leaving room for here.
And, as at all the Jaipur restaurants, special care has been taken to offer a range of wines to complement the subtle spicing of the food.
Good service from friendly and well-trained staff complete the picture.
Seats 45; D daily, 5.30-11. Early D, €18 (5.30-7pm). Gourmet menu €45, also à la carte. House wine from €20. Children welcome (high chair); air conditioning. Closed 25-26 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
