With a reputation for excellence that includes the successful Winding Stair and Woollen Mills restaurants on Dublin’s quays, Elaine Murphy brought some of her magic to leafy Glasnevin, adding yet another ‘W’ to her portfolio.
And, at The Washerwoman, she also rejuvenated a landmark building once again, bringing her winning combination of casual dining and honest, flavoursome food to an established neighbourhood.
Décor is pared back Scandi style, with lime-washed floors, simple wooden chairs, pale grey walls and lovely textured cushions in greys and blues that have been customised with the clever W-shaped- clothes-peg-with-a-spoon logo.
Downstairs there’s an open kitchen and small tables closely packed. Upstairs is roomier, with banquettes, and a vaulted ceiling. A secret garden is a lovely suntrap for lunch, with just a few peaceful tables.
On both floors, a lovely old map of Ireland takes pride of place on the wall but - beautiful as they are - these maps are far from being simply decorative.
As diners soon realise when they look at the labels pinned all over the country, they are in fact supplier maps, designed to illustrate Elaine's - and her team's - 'proud and longheld belief in our sourcing from within the island'.
They cover the whole country and an astonishing range of foods. Just taking the meats alone, they come from a number of producers, including half a dozen suppliers of beef (typically Pat McLoughlin Beef Dublin; John Stone beef from Longford; Peter Hannan Black Angus and Hereford beef from Co Fermanagh; Red Limousine Beef from Ferme Nadurtha Lusk, Co Dublin; Killenure Castle Dexter beef, Co Tipperary).
Then there's Kerry Hill Lamb, from Co Kerry, and another whole range of specialist producers supplying pork and Charcuterie products - think pork from Pigs on the Green, Co Offaly; chorizo from The Whole Hog, Co Meath, and Fingal Ferguson in West Cork; a range from James McGeough Charcuterie, Co Galway. And that's before you even think about the superb Salter's chicken from Co Carlow, unusual meats like rabbit (from Lambay island, just off the North Dublin coast), or any of the seafood, dairy produce, vegetables, or special extras, like foraged seaweeds (from Spanish Point, Co Clare).
It's a food lover's dream map and the beauty of it is that it's constantly changing, as new menus are introduced and bring with them new suppliers to add to the map.
Chef Ian Connolly came here from The House in Howth, and there’s a natural synergy between his style and Elaine's. While you will find favourites from both of Elaine’s other restaurants, The Washerwoman has its own mandate, to become ‘a northside institution’ for weekend brunch and Sunday roasts.
Steak is a priority here, with a choice of six cuts and four sauces on the dinner menu. Daily specials might include a smoke sirloin for two, beautifully cooked, with a choice of four sides, like sweet potato fries with chipotle mayo, ruby slaw, creamed spinach or onion rings. Sauces are well made and bursting with flavour.
There’s a short but interesting kids’ menu (homemade haddock fish fingers, for example), with colouring sheets and crayons speedily supplied to keep little ones engaged. Portions – both adults and children’s – are large, making dessert something of an ambitious goal.
A good drinks list offers plenty of wines by the glass, including lots of choice under €35, as well as a selection of artisan beers, and sweet wines. Tap water is served in a nice bottle and is topped up regularly.
Service is as you’d expect from this professional operator – fun, knowledgeable and efficient. It’s easy to see that staff have been well trained. An early bird menu is available until 7pm from Sunday until Thursday, although - as you would expect for food of this quality - it isn’t overly cheap (€25 for two courses, €29 for three).
As neighbourhood restaurants go the prices aren’t cheap in general, but neither is anything about this stylish, welcoming and quality operation.
Handy to the Botanic Gardens and not far from the airport, The Washerwoman is not just great for the locals, but a very useful place for visitors to know about too.
A true northside gem.
