Please mention ireland-guide.com when enquiring.

The Winding Stair

This much-loved café and bookshop overlooking the Ha'penny Bridge re-opened in 2006 after a long closure and, to everybody's delight, it has turned out to be better than ever.

Although now a proper restaurant with gleaming wine glasses and a fine new La Marzocco coffee machine, something of the old café atmosphere is still to be found in the wooden floorboards, bentwood chairs and simple tables - and, under the direction of Elaine Murphy, good management will ensure that you'll also find friendly staff.

The talented young chef, Aine Maguire, is confirming early promise and succeeding in making a mark by sourcing the best possible ingredients and allowing sound cooking and simplicity to take its course. There's plenty of 'the organic and real' on menus that could include superb starters such as an Irish charcuterie plate (Connemara dry cured lamb and beef, salamis from the Gubbeen smokehouse in County Cork, accompanied by home made chutney & capers), and main dishes including outstanding renditions of classics such as bacon and cabbage with parsley sauce, and great seafood - and specials, such as undyed smoked haddock with a delicious white cheddar mash and onions.

To finish, there's an excellent Irish farmhouse cheese selection and delicious seasonal desserts which, like the rest of the menu, are very fairly priced.

An unusually interesting wine list is clearly put together by enthusiasts, and sourced from a variety of quality suppliers, and you could finish with a superb ristretto, pulled by someone who knows how to use the coffee machine.

The Winding Stair is that rarity among Irish restaurants, serving simple, high quality food, and it has a lovely ambience. Aided by nostalgia, it also has loads of personality and has earned a loyal following - book a window table for a view of the river.

Children welcome; Seats 100; L&D served daily, 12.30-3.30, 6-10.30pm (to 9.30pm Sun); a la carte; house wine from €24. Closed 25-26 Dec, Bank Hols. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Beside Ha'penny bridge