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Pearl Brasserie

Just a few doors away from The Merrion Hotel, Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt's stylish basement restaurant has an open peat fire and an aquarium that runs the length of the bar, where aperitifs and a light bar menu are served.

The style is contemporary international, with a classic French base and a pleasing emphasis on clean flavours highlighting the high quality of ingredients. Several menus are offered, including an attractive vegetarian menu, and there is a leaning towards towards fish and seafood, which Sebastien cooks with accuracy and flair - a fresh crab meat & guacamole starter is served with tomato & gazpacho & potato galette, for example - and specialities from the land include luscious pan-fried foie gras with toasted brioche and strawberry & rhubarb compôte (and an optional glass of Montbazillac, which is hard to resist); main courses include prime meats - pan-fried fillet beef with fondue of spinach and roquefort croquette potato, is a speciality - and there are less usual luxurious dishes such as squab pigeon Rossini, with pan-fried foie gras and black truffle mashed potato.

Desserts are a highlight and include particularly good ices, and coffee is served with home-made chocolates. Charming, efficient and well informed service complements Sebastien Masi's unusual and beautifully presented meals.

The wine list is a good match for the food, favouring France and including a good choice of half bottles.

*Separate Wine Bar area serving nibbles & light bar menu. Also available for cocktails and apperitif and digestif drinks.

Children welcome. Seats 80 (private area, 10); reservations recommended; air-conditioning. L Mon-Fri 12-2.30, D Mon-Sat 6-10.30. 'Value' L €24, D á la carte; also vegetarian menu. House wine €21. SC discretionary. Closed Sun, bank hols. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Opposite Government Building, near Merrion Hotel.