Beautifully situat
ed alongside the Grand Canal, with the entrance - guarded by stone lions and a new lodge which sports the trademark soft Lyons green - just beside the 14th lock, the former Lyons Demesne is currently owned by the CLIFF group (Cliff House Hotel, Co Waterford; Cliff Townhouse, Dublin).
In an imaginatively landscaped setting with delightful little gardens and ever-present water, this unusual place has many faces - romantic wedding venue, conference and meeting place, rural retreat, and fine dining destination among them.
You approach the main entrance past stone statuary and a bed of box balls, over a little bridge (pausing to admire the mill race below) and in through a massive front door which leads straight into the bar; known as The Lyons Den, it’s a welcoming room with a huge fireplace, plenty of comfortable well-worn leather furniture and a full figure portrait of a lady to welcome arriving guests.
The range of luxurious Accommodation options offered around the village includes four 'Estate' rooms (a striking mix of the traditional and the contemporary, one with free standing bath); nine varied but atmospheric Lily Pond Rooms overlooking the central water feature; a romantic one-bedroom apartment; and a number of 2 and 3 bedroom ‘cottages’ (some overlooking the canal) which come complete with Aga cookers and can be used for longer lets.
A very good breakfast is served in The Orangery, a beautiful conservatory overlooking the gardens, and Dove Square Dining offers informal all-day and takeaway plus a deli and gift shop at The Pantry (deli, snacks, light lunches, Wed-Sun) - and, since spring 2019, the destination restaurant Aimsir (see separate entry) has brought new life to the charming former cookery school premises nearby. Majken Bech Bailey, who is manager and co-owner with her chef husband Jordan Bailey, of Aimsir, is now also operations manager at Cliff at Lyons and stylish refurbishments to the accommodation have been undertaken under her direction.
The main in-house,restaurant, The Mill (see below), is a stunning double-height room where chef Sean Smith serves up excellent modern classic cooking in an atmospheric setting at both lunch and dinner. And (along with several other areas, including The Garden Room and The Shackleton Room) The Mill also makes a superb venue for private gatherings when permitted, including exclusive weddings - there is a tiny chapel, which has to be seen to be believed.
Billed as a 'Boutique Hotel and Rural Retreat' this is a wonderful place with an emphasis on relaxation, both onsite - notably at The Well in the Garden spa, which is beautifully set in the restored Carriage House - and in the area, where there is ample opportunity for gentle exploration on foot or by bike, and stand up paddle baording is available on the canal.
All this - and Arthur Guinness's grave.
The Mill Restaurant
Housed in The Old MIll, a lofty building that was the first to be constructed at the Village at Lyons, The Mill Restaurant is a spacious and beautiful room that feels both historic and contemporary. Overlooking the rushing mill race, guests seated by the large French windows may be lucky enough to be treated to a balletic performance from yellow wagtails or sparrows bathing in the pools at the top of the mill race.
The water feature and lush foliage outside makes for a soothing and secluded view, but this room has plenty of unusual internal features too. Think thick stone walls in chalky white, a large round feature window with decorative leading, a magnificent oversized fireplace fashioned from stone, double height ceilings with dark beams and a large nook that neatly houses a dining table and banquette. A large mezzanine, complete with low slung sofas and coffee tables, overlooks the room, and a sweeping staircase dramatically leads guests from the outdoors to the well spaced tables below.
Dining here is a smart affair, all linen tablecloths, navy leather chairs and staff kitted out in crisp white shirts, dark aprons and emerald green ties knotted neatly at the neck. It’s a semi-formal space, with a relaxed vibe, and a setting that’s just right for chef Sean Smith’s accomplished brand of cooking.
Smith came from Cliff at Lyons’ sister property in Dublin, The Cliff Townhouse, where he was known for his polished line of classical cooking and exemplary seafood. The move to Kildare sees a shift in menus and ingredients while staying true to Smith’s strengths.
Championing the best of seasonal Irish ingredients, diners can expect quality like Peter Hannan’s sugar pit bacon and salt-aged beef, Harty’s and Kelly’s oysters, Lambay crab, TJ Crowe pork, Warrenpoint cod, Galway Bay mussels and Duvillaun Beg Island lamb. Smith brings a modern touch to a menu filled with the classics, maybe glistening gigas oysters with piquant mignonette and Tabasco; tender pork cheeks with crisp apple and celery; and delicious cannon of lamb with barigoule artichokes, vibrant broad beans and salty samphire. The Lyons’ Garden Salad, a crisp mix of freshly picked greens and thinly radish slivers, is wonderful.
An extensive wine list is matched by an innovative seasonal cocktail selection and interesting mocktails. Desserts are a stand-out, perhaps sweet Wexford strawberries with sabayon and buttery shortbread or honey-poached peach with an almond parfait wrapped in the finest white chocolate.
Outdoors, there’s the newly developed Mill Terrace, a bucolic outdoor dining space overlooking the atmospheric mill race and creeper-clad Old Mill. It’s hard to think of a more tranquil setting to while away time over an excellent meal. A hot spot for Sunday lunch, the sophisticated and delicious menus make it a perfect destination for a relaxed and special family occasion.
Many of The Mill’s friendly staff are new, and still finding their feet. Under the watchful eye of the exceptional Majken Bech Bailey, who also runs Aimsir’s front-of-house, the service will no doubt settle down quickly and match the excellence of the food and location.
