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Rasam

Above The Eagle pub in Glasthule, this is an appealing restaurant, impressively decorated in dark teak, with traditional Balinese furnishings and generous, well-spaced tables - and a new open air garden area has now been added at the back.

Rasam offers something different from other Indian restaurants, as the cuisine is lighter and more varied - the menu is laid out like a wine list, with the name of the dish and a brief (but clear) description, and the name of the region it comes from alongside the price.

Two head chefs are from Bengali and Kerala regions, so the food reflects that as well as other regions. You might begin with samosas which are delightfully served; main courses might include a relatively simple Kori Gassi, which is a long-established dish at Rasam - chicken is simmered in a spicy masala of brown onions and tomatoes, and other meats are well represented - Pork Sobotel, is an aromatic example.

Shakahari Thali, is a memorable mixture of five lentils, cooked with spinach and other vegetables, tempered with spice. Many special ingredients are used in the cooking here, including rare herbs and spices unique to the restaurant, all ground freshly each day.

Everything is made on the premises - great accompaniments include delicious naan bread and chapatti, and there is an extensive range of side dishes. Indian restaurants are not known for their desserts but, in addition to some western dishes like millefeuille of strawberries & almonds and baked alaska, there's an interesting 'Falooda' kulfi with saffron & pistachio, which is served on a bed of sandalwood syrup - and an otherwise classic crème brulée is 'easternised' with rose petal flavouring.

An extensive wine and drinks menu is thoughtfully selected for compatibility with Indian food, and solicitous staff ensure that everything is as it should be.

All round, for a great Indian dining experience, Rasam has earned its place right at the top of the league.

*Rasam was our Ethnic Restaurant of the Year, 2007.

Seats 75; children welcome; reservations recommended; D daily, 5.30-11.30 (Sun to 11); Early D €21.95, 5.30-6.30, Set 4 course D €44.95, also à la carte. Closed 25-26 Dec, Good Fri. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Over The Eagle pub